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I have this issue but with my right high beam. I think the adjustment screw fell out of place or something broke inside. When I adjust it, nothing happens. I had them adjusted before and randomly noticed one side was all the way down.

Yup, nothing was plugged into the cigarette lighter at the time.

We recently got a new member in our Subaru family - a 2013 Tribeca 3.6R Limited. It has this strange quirk where it would make a popping sound from the speakers when using the door locks. It seems like all the speakers do the pop. It doesn't matter what input is selected on the radio - popping occurs on AM, FM, CD, and XM. I am thinking something might be wrong with a ground somewhere or something funky with the Harmon Kardon amp, but I have to do more investigating. Other than that, the sound system sounds healthy with no distortion. It's not really an important thing but I figured maybe someone can offer their two cents. I decided to post on the Legacy forums as the Tribeca forums are a little not active.

It should be somewhat similar to OEM headlights. Getting access to the screws is a little tricky. I recommend a long Philips screwdriver and a flat ratcheting wrench (8mm I think - I don't remember). I managed to adjust mine without moving the battery and just removing the intake duct on the other side.

Looks beautiful in the wild. Really love the wheels.

Nice! Sounds like a solid upgrade. Wish us 3.6R owners had options for aftermarket radiators I'm at 200k with my original one and luckily it's been holding up well. No leaks or diminishing amount of coolant.

Hello and welcome to the community. I hope you are enjoying your 3.6R. I had mine for about six years now and still absolutely love the car. Mine is sitting at 200,000 miles. Depending on your millage, replace your spark plugs for good measure and just keep up with routine engine oil, trans fluid, and diff oil maintenance. After that, you should check out Xtreme Racing Tuning as they tune the 3.6R and also have a 5EAT tune available.

Thanks for the feedback. My next question would have been what type of reman manufacture do you guys recommend. I looked at the price difference and I would go for a new OEM one as well. Reman: ~120 + Core = $180 OEM: ~220 It's worth it to chip in more and not worry about being stranded with a bad starter.

I have a 2010 Legacy 3.6R with ~200k miles. It lived in Michigan all its life and has seen snow and salt every year. Structure and suspension has surface rust on the welds but nowhere close to structurally unsafe. But I do also wash the underside often during winter months and then scrub everything down after the season. I also have a 2009 Tribeca, that also has been driven in the snow in New Jersey by the previous owner. That thing does not look good. Heavy rust on frame and suspension components. Exhaust had rust holes and bolts were not even identifiable. Engine oil cooler lines on the EZ36D rusted through and started leaking. Transmission fluid lines are in bad shape. Don't even bother trying dropping the spare tire mounted under the car (the entire mechanism is rusted). And surprisingly it only has 90k miles on it and has a higher ride height than the Legacy. Sometimes it may be Subaru's fault, but I guess it depends how the car was "winterized" or cared for during the winter season.

I recently decided to replace my starter because the common grinding noise is getting worse even during warmer days. When I was watching some videos of 3.6R 6th gens, I was impressed by how fast the starter cranked on them. Sounded much better, quieter, and stronger than the 5th gens. I don't know maybe I am exaggerating a bit here. I cannot find the actual kW ratings for the OEM starters themselves. Is there a difference between the CVT and 5MT starter? Many of the websites say they are not cross compatible. Should I buy the newer CVT starter or should I just buy a reman ACDelco (larger kw) unit?

Ah right that makes sense. In my case I put them together side by side and the difference was very very minimal. (Not sure if it is within Subaru spec though.) But I looked at them when they were off the car. So it maybe possible that this changes when the tires gets pushed down by the weight of the car depending how the sidewall acts. I took them off a couple days ago anyways, because I just wanted to see how they look.

You're right, but I have the same exact 225/40/18 tires mounted on all four corners (square stance). In that case, I don't think I am doing any damage since the wheels are not spinning at different speeds. It would be a different story if I had wider tires mounted in the rear.

These are Axis X-Factor wheels staggered with 8.5" fronts and 9.5" rears with an offset of 40. They have Federal 595 225/40 tires mounted all around (square stance). I got these off Craigslist from a BRZ owner for a good price. I may sell them because I am not a fan of the staggered setup because I can't rotate the tires. But they do look amazing and the tires feel great. The rear is a tad too stretched for my liking as well.

Interesting, I didn't know this was even an option on the 5th gen. Seems like a neat feature.

Sorry about kind of hijacking this thread but... I got a set of 18" Axis XFactor wheels off Craigslist for a great price (staggered 8.5 front 9.5 back with 40 offset). They have 225s mounted on all of them, but the 9.5 is a bit too stretched for my liking and the tires aren't in great shape. Not sure if I am even going to keep these or I may sell them. They were a good price and looked nice, only reason why I got them. I would like to purchase 245/45 or 245/50 tires, but I am not sure if they would rub against the shock absorber up front since I am running Koni yellow inserts. Right now, I probably have about 3/4" - 1.0" of clearance. I think the rear would be alright, looks like a lot of room back there. Front: Rear:

Ah true. I'll open the seat up over the weekend and peak to see what's going on.

I used a bunch of methods to try to fix this. Key chain loops, carabiners, various metal pieces. Honestly, I just used a bunch of zip ties to tie the lumbar piece with the hook. So far it has been holding very strong for about a year now. But the lumbar is fairly weak and I wish there was a modification to make it go out more.

Sadly no. I have to look into new winter wheels.

Whaaaa? I didn't know that. That is interesting!

Finally installed one of the biggest and most exciting modifications for my car, Brembo front calipers. I am absolutely in love and beyond happy. I paired them with DBA 4000 rotors and Wagner OEx ceramic pads. I still need to install stainless steel brake lines and swap the calipers left to right and right to left because they were assembled incorrectly. I realized this only when I was installing the brake lines and the metal holder was pointed toward the bottom. I realized the plug and bleeder screw was flipped. They were a pain to bleed but I eventually got them working and they feel great.

Also if the Brembos were rebuilt by someone, double check if they are put together correctly. My Brembos have the plug and bleed screw flipped around and I did not realize it until I was bolting on the brake line. So actually they are installed upside down with the crossover on the top. They were a pain to bleed but works fine for now. I will fix but I am waiting on SS lines that are delayed cause of USPS.

Ah, you're right. I completely forgot about that. It actually took a while for me to bleed them, but it was fine eventually.

I bought yellow-powder coated, rebuilt Brembos from a person on eBay about two years ago. Last week, it was finally time for new rotors and pads and I finished installing the new setup today. They look beautiful on the car. I couldn't be more happier. And they feel great with a lot of stopping power. It's going to be nice to try them out on the autocross. But when I was installing the brake lines I realized something was wrong. The tabs that stick out to hold the brake line in place while tightening the banjo bolt were flipped. Picture below shows what I am talking about. I went ahead and temporary installed the brake lines in place and torqued them down. I installed the Brembos with the bleeders up but I was too excited to check if everything else was okay. I should have stopped and spent more time seeing if everything was alright before installing them, but I got too excited. I believe the person who rebuilt them accidently swapped the plugs and bleeders screws. Oops Sometime next week I plan on swapping the bleeders screws and plugs and swapping the calipers around from left to right and right to left. Oh well more work but I want to do it right and maybe it's also a safety feature that prevents the line from loosening overtime. If anybody knows more about this, please let me know. I have included pictures of them completely installed below.

Yeah not sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I think a coil pack is just a coil pack. (Don’t quote me on that [emoji23]). But if someone is replacing all the coil packs in an H6, Cosmo seems like a good deal at $244 for 6. Instead of going OEM at $115 a pop. But if someone just needs one then RockAuto is a good idea. I may have a bad coil pack that is why I am looking at options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk