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Posts posted by Starks
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Guys guys guys...Smh. Did no one not see this? Even if our flapper could open up 100% the flapper would contact the flapper opening on the DP. Period.
That's the problem. What do you guys want? A vid? Pics? I can show whatever. The issue is clear as day to me.
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So... I just received the community turbine housing. Mated it up with the dp. The flap definitely contacts the DP for sure.
There's almost no wiggle room to adjust this thing for clearance. There's no question about it, the flapper interferes with this thing.
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With the level of service they've shown over the year (also remember they messed up some dp orders with missing bungs too) I doubt they come through.
It'd be nice but it is what it is. We found the problem. I'd say just move on ourselves, fix the issue, and don't let your friends buy nameless again.
I have at least two shops here that can do a port job if people don't feel comfortable themselves. I'd suggest jumping in line with the community core swap and I could set up some kind of port deal maybe.
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Shooting from the hip here...
But what about cutting the outside lever, adjusting the angle slightly further away from the housing (so it has more throw), then using an adjustable wga to adjust preload tension and angle to counter the potential reduction in slower spool?
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Why not weld another actuator arm mount point to the top of the pivot arm?
Use a cotter pin to secure.
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But, it's not the actuator that's the issue, it's the arm operating the flapper that's contacting not allowing the flapper to fully open.
Or am I mistaken?
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Found the thread I was thinking of previously: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-gt-engine-re-build-257922.html
User WheelZ mentioned in post #14 that the little external tab that connects to the wastegate flapper interfered with the housing and/or the flange, and that whoever ported his exhaust housing also took a little meat out to address that situation. Maybe English could look into that if they can't get in there and port the internal passages? This seems like low-hanging fruit to me- it's external, and as long as whoever does the grinding keeps the transitions nice and smooth, there's no more risk of creating heat-related stress concentrations by trimming the outside than there would be on the inside.
Wow!...That is nuts. Why? Just why?
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I as well have their bpv.
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Now that my daily is reliable and weather is solid again I'd be down for a community housing. If you're going to port yours Flegacy I could come up and and we could do it together.
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Alright!
Well here is what we have found out.
After talking with Aaron about everything he said that having an after market BPV on the car you wont be able to get lower boost numbers. Having a valve that will hold the boost will net you 20+PSI. If you wanted say lower boost like 16-19PSI you would need to keep your stock valve.
We also talked about how having an after market valve then porting the housing some since the stock port for the waste gate cant flow enough to keep up you could essential keep the aftermarket valve and still hit a lower boost target with porting.
In conclusion both the old DP and the new DP behave almost exactly the same except the new DP overall has better performance netting you in more power and a quicker spool time.
Attached is the dyno/boost graph. In RED is the Old DP with our valve. In Blue is the New DP and our valve.
http://i64.tinypic.com/15d8cyc.jpg
Also, I know there was plenty time and tension all around but thanks for meeting us in some form to help clear up the issue.
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Interesting, over time in the later months a few members were coming to this conclusion. Disheartening and enlightening at the same time.
Those some decent numbers though!!
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Sweet Christmas that looks horrible.
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Yup, nice smooth boost control on that one as well. I truely feel its the exact same issue as the vf52 boost creep. Some do it and some dont, its the turbo causing the issues, not the downpipe.
The 09wrx+ crowd has fought this problem for years, some people are just fine at stage 2 catless and some cant even get away with a catted dp without tossing the stock catback back on to increase backpressure in the exhaust. Believe it or not i have had customers reinstall the stock intake and it helped with the boost creep due to pre turbo /post turbo restrictions.
Dave
Good analysis. Appreciate your insight on the issue. I think the crowd here was about half on the new design and half of the turbo design causing the issue.
What I think everybody was in agreement with though was they purchased this model off of their claims of no boost creep with this down pipe. Then the rest is history for anyone who wants to page back.
So cryo, with your history and recent experience with our situation what would you suggest if your customer had started over boosting?
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Ugh it's only 430 on West coast
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Today is the day!!
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I'm looking forward to this
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I wanted to be add value here as well since I was a pioneer on my other platforms forums but after seeing the situation go sideways early on I figured to just stay back.
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It seems that the mega meet was cancelled.
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Just when I had been checking this, seeing no updates, and building up confidence to go ahead we get another bad report.
How about we get that community ported housing?
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Nope and I wouldn't have any idea what I was doing anyways, I am not very experienced with computers so I would be able to plug it in and that's about it. I figured someone would have helped me step by step, but no one has. It may seem easy for you guys to do something like this, but I have never done it before so I will need help. If not we will be waiting until November unless someone else with the original downpipe logs theirs. Have you guys made sure your downpipes were installed correctly, and the ones who haven't installed theirs should make sure it's clocked the right way so it's not hitting anything? You can't just throw it on and tighten it, it needs to be at a certain angle just like the rest of the exhaust.
But what is the angle though? There aren't any install directions with the dp or even pictures unless I'm mistaken.
We're just under the assumption that we drop the old and bolt up the new. If there really is a specific angle we need to use has anyone seen it?
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I am onboard with that lets get a list going!
Who would be interested in a communal ported turbine housing?
I'd be in. I'm holding off until it gets a little colder the summer heat is brutal. Put me further down the list.
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I have a spare turbo that needs some tlc, it would be great for a rebuild or upgrade...loaded up my next revision and was hitting 20 psi...wgdc is up around 64% compared to a previous 44% so my system is definitely working correctly.
To me creep means climbing pressure regardless of wgdc or boost target.
Also pulled my turbo down today to get my shields back in place, only took me about an hour to get it down and total about 4 hours.
Look what I found!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160908/05865d9ef874760c5206c31da23b3766.jpg
And fixed!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160908/f60150b5a961d97a0645305b33aa7805.jpg
I thought I heard a chatter at low rpm sometimes I assume that was it.
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Thanks for that info FLleg!
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So no OB so far FLl?
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I'm rooting for you. Good luck!
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Nameless Downpipe: Official 5th Gen GT Install Thread
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
Posted
I'm trying to show where it's contacting. I see that the flapper can't open that far. I have the two pieces mated and manually operating the lever with a pen through the lever arm. I can feel the resistance and it scraping.
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