Starks

Hmm... looks like I'll accelerate my plans to reach out to a different shop. I'm sure the wife will be excited.

Hahaha, I think I'm about in the same boat as you. This race shop I'm talking to is coaxing me into this tune. I'm positive my wife isn't going to like the price.

But man would I like to have the face to face and confidence in their ability.

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He's not tuning just verifying the health of his tune.

 

And Starks just an FYI your tuner might want you to add the Grimm speed ebcs, over the stock one for a bit more control. Or at least that's what I was told by tuning alliance. And not that I don't recommend them at all, but I saw MTUNED working on a YouTube video and I was very impressed with his work.

 

He even customised the 6th gear map for the customer for a cleaner cruise and lower boost limit. One thing I miss about the stage 1 tune was not having to downshift for a short pass on the hwy.

 

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Yeah, I've already been looking for tuners. I'm considering tuning alliance, another guy suggested mtune as well, even contacted circuit Motorsports in Orlando. The latter is super pricey compared to other options.

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So I've had about 45 minutes behind the wheel. So far so good I believe. One thing I am noticing is many more pops from the exhaust between shifts and off throttle. The ots must be super rich.

I'm trying to get some logs now. If I gather some will you guys take a look? What are you normally logging?

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Some progress on the wastegate flapper upgrade:

 

Mmm. Which 'penny' to use?

 

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/fahr_side/IMG_32561_zps0lodfybl.jpg

 

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/fahr_side/IMG_32581_zpsas5ng8st.jpg

 

Sadly I won't have time to port it in the next week or two.

Appreciate the research and help! Out of curiosity, where would we source the flapper?

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Well I finished the install this evening. It sounds good!! I'll say that. Loaded up the 91 stg 2 map. I'll see how it goes tomorrow.

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This whole endeavor has been aggravating. I'm glad I have a daily. All I have to do now is connect the oil feed and it's good to turn over. Almost done, fingers crossed. I forgot about the restrictor plate, I'll keep that in mind. I skipped installing the bpv for now. I didn't feel like dealing with that aggravation.

Side note the DP bolts and stuff, as Flegacy suggested alternate the DP bolts to the intermediate pipe. On the one with the dick hair clearance, mate the bolt to the DP first then thread the bolt to it. The intermediate pipe to catback use the supplied shorter bolts from Nameless.

That little clink that you hear is the arm hitting the WGA arm. Its hard holding the camera, the WGA arm up, and moving the flapper all in a go. You can see the scrapes on the outside flapper arm from me playing with it so much.

I made sure I didn't feel any interference when I was bolting it up. If it still scrapes when hot then it's a design flaw of the DP. Because I sure took the time to make sure it didn't before hand.

If I overboost with the stock bpv then I'm chopping off the DP exhaust channel.

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Okay cool. I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I'm also installing the nameless bpv so we'll see how that goes as far as overboost. If it does I'll take it off and see if it persists.

Lastly, I took a short vid to verify that I am able to manipulate the flapper without interference. So any overboost encountered isn't an install issue. Not that nameless would care though...

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You use the nameless intermediate pipe and then put the cat back adapter on the mid pipe to intermediate pipe connection. Somewhere around the tail of the transmission if memory serves.

 

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Yeah, the intermediate pipe is on along with the adapter. Which set of bolts did you use? The OEM, nameless, or grimmspeed?

And what's up with the DP bolts. On the driver side there's enough room for the nut to thread all the way down but on the passenger side it won't thread all the way down because of clearance on the locking nut even if I flip the nut and bolt.

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So to the guys who used the stock mid pipe, how did you mate to the nameless intermediate pipe?

The OEM spring bolts won't fit in the intermediate holes, the bolts that come with the grimmspeed adapter are way too large for the DP holes and the bolts that come with the dp look too short. Not to mention that they have no give to them like the spring bolts.

What did you do?

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Chris was simply making a joke, or have we all forgotten what those are? You know like the people at nameless, a big joke.

Hehehe I liked that one.

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That's interesting, but even with clearance they made for the wastegate travel the actuator doesn't move the arm that much. Are you planning to find a longer throw actuator.

 

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Idk, I made that clearance. As far as a different actuator, I'm not going to go that far unless the boost situation stays out of control. Last resort.

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/?p=Actuators&page=1

https://www.maperformance.com/collections/wastegates-actuators/products/grimmspeed-adjustable-iwg-mounting-bracket-subaru

And if you remedy the interference by chopping off the part of the main dump pipe that extends into the exhaust housing, you lose the effect that Nameless was going for, namely having the flow from the turbine pass through the cat and the wastegate flow bypass it. Chop it down and as much gas as can flow through the bypass pipe will, until that's choked and the rest will go through the cat. So the cat then becomes kind of useless with so much gas bypassing it, and there's so much of the turbine flow going through the bypass pipe that wastegate flow will have to compete with it for flow capacity.

 

That looks like about 20*, which I agree is not a whole hell of a lot.

Yeah...Idk man. This whole thing is aggravating. For this dp to work were literally doing precautions to make things compatible. Modifying the turbo, then maybe modifying the DP, then my thought of altering the WGA.

Since I know there's an installation issue I'll mount it pushed and pulled or whatever nameless said. Manually operate the arm to check for clearance. Then if OB happens I'll get to cutting.

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I'm going to end with this. IMO there is a design flaw with the dp.

If your were to pick this up with no knowledge of this issue you have a high chance of overboost. The reason I believe is because of their directional separator. The waste gate will jam against it if you don't mount it perfectly. And that's completely dumb. The waste gate won't open fully and you'll be over boosting or it will scrape past eventually and be stuck open. This is what nameless was attempting to say when they mentioned move it in some direction. That 1 or 2 mm adjustment could mean the difference between a new engine. And if you're just doing an install that should be as straightforward as it looks and sounds who's really checking to see if their waste gate has proper room for travel? Look at my vid and see how much difference that 2mm makes.

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I don't see much porting in there.

 

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I think they did a fine job. They ported what needed to be ported. They knocked out that large lump, made a straight path, and made a tapered edge to the waste gate.

I believe I'm going to also take their advice and cut some out of the DP. I can feel the flapper interfering with the dp.

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So I got my housing ported by Boost Labs. Here are my takeaways.

First they are an awesome local shop. I couldn't ask for anything better. They ported and media blasted my housing very quickly.

#2 they know of nameless performance and were surprised at this situation.

#3 they said on their own accord that this is a poorly designed housing.

#4 they suggested if there are still overboost problems after this, cut off the circular protruding piece on the DP because in their opinion it interferes with savaging of the exhaust.

#5 they wouldn't recommend changing the flapper and opening the hole further because they've seen situations where changing the lever can cause the mechanism to seize once things heat up.

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You mean the one that's not compatible with their downpipe? [emoji12]

 

 

 

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Yup! That one!!

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Just to reset context here, the only part we have concerns about is the downpipe. To keep up with the song analogy, every artist has a song that could be better. I've yet to see anyone complain about their other parts, like their axle-backs.

I thought it was the product and the poor customer service in resolving the issue?

It seems that people are happy with their handling of the situation. My bad.

Edit: (Actually I could share the poor customer service experience my wife had when she bought their bpv for my birthday last year if you'd like another example).

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For what it's worth, I don't know what your exhaust setup consists of currently, but you could try replacing all 5 of your exhaust hangers with the Nameless urethane hangers. I did this when I installed my axlebacks, and the hangers hold everything REALLY solidly in place. $45 for all 5 ($12/each, less per/each the more you buy). Don't know if it would help or not, just a thought.

 

Here's a clip of mine with some hard revs, and you'll see nothing wiggles at all: https://www.instagram.com/p/BMpCoAGgPn9

You're really suggesting he buy more stuff from Nameless IN THIS THREAD?!

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Oooh! Thanks for bumping this. I was looking into this mod and this thread answers everything.

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My thought as well, I was just trying to give it the benefit of a doubt.

Very odd. People may be unknowingly sacrificing low end torque using this dp.

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Islandborn's Stage 1 to Stage 2 dyno. Stage 2 is RacerX TMIC, AVO DP and Invidia CBE.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4266898&postcount=233

 

Another look at the 3000-3500 torque

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4267007&postcount=237

 

Why are these Nameless DP tunes not producing massive boost and torque at 3000-3500 rpms? Is it because in order to control it (read: stop it from overboosting), spool boost has to be bled off at a high rate with the initial spool, leaving mucho powah on the table?

I'm definitely wondering if the boost control issue is affecting lower end torque with the use of this dp. Like are tuners opening the waste gate sooner to bleed boost off before it goes out of control.

I mean, spool time should be the same regardless right?

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Man, that sounds like a headache but I bet you're glad it's over and resolved.

Are you planning on doing anymore HP mods in the future or is this the end of it?

If you could get your hands on another hotside to correct the port would you go that far?

Any ideas as to why the English tune feels less torque in the lower rpms than the ots?

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I see now. So just to confirm we're grinding down the red marked areas right?

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If the wastegate puck is centered on the tube it might restrict the air flow going through it more than the way it currently is. The restriction might actual help the boost control issue though.....

Wait, I'm not following this. In its current capacity if the flapper was able to open 100%, it can't with this dp. Impossible. The restriction is creating back pressure at the moment. Though minimal, I think we can agree that the angle isn't desirable. It'd be best to be open completely with no resistance for waste gate gasses.

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That's exactly it! I know what to do. The Australian member who posted about his install has the right idea. That covered all bases!

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