alex0856

Interesting, I had never considered that. Either way that would definitely be too tall for my vertically challenged self (I went and sat in the car to verify) so the box remains for sale. Thanks for attracting more customers!

Yeah I'm just installing based on Second Skin's damplifier pro instructions which state to install in a checkerboard pattern covering 25-60% of bare metal for the most efficient results. Overlapping over factory tar boards or doing full coverage has diminishing returns, especially since its intention is to absorb vibrations and not road noise. I'm aiming for about 40% coverage with damplifier pro in the areas I have exposed right now (will do the doors later on) and then I'll be fully covering the floor from the rear footwells up with luxury liner pro for noise and heat insulation. Eventually I'll pull the headliner and take a similar approach to that as well. @SoobyDoobyDoo Not sure if you're referring to my mud flaps or sound deadening but you are right either way lol the old flaps got a nice curve to them over the years that could possibly be fixed with a heat gun. As for the sound deadening heat is definitely its friend but I decided to say screw it to the electric bill this month and run a space heater in the garage for a few days while I get this done. Fortunately second skin goes on pretty easy. @Ashtone No problem! I was honestly surprised they were still available. Did you order the wagon specific rear mud guards? I had a hell of a time figuring out the part number for the fronts as I was getting conflicting information from different dealer sites on which set was for fourth gens.

I managed to squeeze the car in to the garage and stack my interior pieces on the roof (I threw a brand new moving blanket on it first) so that I can start installing damplifier pro...after talking to their support team it looks like I am not covering nearly enough. They recommend between 25-60% of all exposed metal surfaces. They also recommend removing the factory tar boards if possible. I spent about 10 seconds attempting that and said nope, that's a can of worms I do not want to open. So I'll be going back in to the trunk and fitting pieces where I can. I haven't added any to the spare tire well yet because I have a box of Amazon sound deadener that my brother gave me which I'm saving for that. Just focusing on areas that are covered by the interior right now. Really getting down to the wire...2 weeks until I move and still no carpet. My friend is letting me use his shop this weekend to install the luxury liner since my garage isn't big enough to remove the front seats with the car fully inside. New custom mufflers are being installed on 1-30 so once that's done I'll seafoam it and install the AOS. Fun times.

If you want my old flaps I am more than happy to ship them to you. Would rather give them to someone than have them sit in a box. They're beat up but if you took the time to sand the edges and repaint I bet they'd look alright. PM me if you're interested.

Thanks for sharing this haha fortunately I already knew what they were for so I knew I definitely didn't want to go with the sealing route. I bit the bullet and ordered new ones, I found them for 58 each. This would also explain the occasional exhaust smell I'm getting, esp since my muffler gaskets are leaking.

Well I went to start prepping for my Second Skin install and found a cool puddle behind the left rear wheel well. I'm guessing it's from the rubber on the vents not sealing anymore. There's a tiny bit of moisture on the right as well. Has anyone dealt with this before? How did you fix it? The stupid vents are $70/each and I'm thinking I'll be stuck buying new ones. Oh well. It's funny, I was thinking the other day about how I've never had to remove my rear bumper cover. Looks like that's going to change.

Top pic or bottom pic? Top is what the car looks like today with 17x7.5s and OEM splash guards, bottom pic with the chunky 18x8.5s is old. They're a rigid plastic and the brand was called "flap attacks" or something along those lines, they were a group buy on the forum at least 10 years ago.

GrimmSpeed brace is a must have Fill your system with Motul DOT 5.1 when you do this, you won't regret it I've been very happy with my stopping power and brake feel since I did new calipers/rotors/pads/fluid and added the MC brace. However in hindsight I will say I wish I had used the opportunity to upgrade the fronts. Oh well, next time.

I bought a front and rear set of lines a while back but had to abort mission due to a bad case of seized flare nuts. I decided not to move forward with the install because I'd need to be prepared to repair my hard lines just in case. I returned the front set but not the rear set because I robbed its crush washers. So you'll need to replace those. Other than that they are brand new, never installed. Asking $50 shipped in the continental US.

I bought this box 5 years ago after spending about 0.2 seconds considering how it would be installed. It never occurred to me that I couldn't use it with my beloved pop up console box lid. $80 shipped in the continental US.

@WRX USA @DoctorDaveLGT Thanks for the explanations I appreciate it. The cargo fan is very cool, if I wasn't using that space for a 2nd battery I'd be all over that. Doctor Dave I may take you up on those actuators once I figure out some other things. I should probably focus on getting the carpet back in to my car haha. What auction site(s) are you all using?

Is that footwell lighting plug and play? I also have questions about the cargo fan and power folding seats...sounds like more things for me to buy. Where does the rear cargo fan go/what does it do? And the power folding seats, is it just like a button that auto folds the rear seats?

Had an alignment done (again) after I accidentally trashed a brand new tie rod end. This concludes the suspension, brake, and drivetrain overhaul. Figured I'd take the opportunity to show off my new wheels as well - picked up these OEM 17x7.5s for 100 bucks in ROUGH shape. Had them repaired/refinished in a satin gunmetal gray and I'm in love with how they turned out. After that they were wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS4s. Not gonna lie, I don't miss my 18x8.5 et33s. I guess I'm getting old. Plus, I can hit driveways as hard as I want to with zero rubbing. I also did away with my old flaps (I think they were called flapattacks or something like that?) and installed new OEM splash guards. Really going for that "OEM plus" look. -new Bilstein B8s all around, new strut mounts, reused my swift sport springs -new control arms, lateral links, inner/outer tie rods, end links -new powerstop pads, new front rotors and calipers -resurfaced rear rotors and rebuilt rear calipers (what a PITA) -Flushed brake lines, refilled with Motul DOT 5.1 -installed grimmspeed master cylinder brace -attempted and failed to install stainless brake lines. Could not get a single flare nut to break free so I'll have to have new hard lines on standby if I attempt that again -flushed PS system and filled with Motul Dexron III ATF -new wheel hubs -new front CV axles -new kartboy shifter bushings (they were in decent shape for being 15 years old) -new clutch slave and master cylinders -new OEM pitch stop -flushed/refilled trans with Redline GL5 -flushed/refilled rear diff with Subaru HPGO -replaced damn near every single nut and bolt along the way Some before and after - 12/30/2017 to 12/29/2023

I decided I wasn't ready to go back to stock height so I did this instead Brand new B8s all around, new top mounts, reused my swift springs. Drives like a dream. Edit: no clue why it rotated the picture

Just so I'm clear, sidestepping it once should take care of the chatter?

Looking for some opinions on single vs. dual. One of my biggest complaints about my car is drivetrain shudder and clutch chatter so I'm brainstorming ways to help with that without compromising ride quality. Unfortunately my 5k mile throw out bearing has decided to call it quits very early so the trans is coming out soon. Of the 3 clutches I've had in my car I've always had Exedy OEM or stage 1 + STI flywheel. I'm tossing around the idea of throwing in a dual mass while I'm there just to see if I prefer it. Thoughts and opinions on the two?

I guess I'm a little confused, why would you need to do this?

No I'm very fortunate that has not happened to me yet. Dreading the day.

Before you rip out the pump replace this part https://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-GTOBKXT-WAGON/O-Ring-Connector/49245874/34439FG000.html It's a common problem caused by a leak from this o-ring. Your pump may be fine. I just fixed my identical issue by replacing this o-ring and used it as an opportunity to flush the PS system and fill with Motul ATF. Now it's buttery smooth.

That is quite alright. Life happens. I don't think anyone is offended. I never pm'd you because I knew it would send me down a rabbit hole of plotting more powah upgrades when I have so much else to work on (including non-car things).

Well if you wanted something less uh, "gay", then your best bet is a track system. Thule and Yakima make them but I don't know if they bend, I usually see them on truck canopies. You'd also be drilling holes in your roof. If you go that route I'd recommend putting a rust blocker/primer on your holes and sealing them up like you said. Sedan racks aren't good for much so you wouldn't be fitting much up there. A hitch mount might be better depending on what you're trying to carry.

I had a certain incident last night involving the right side of the speedometer and a fender liner being secured by exactly 1 clip. It had been holding on for dear life for a while but I hadn't considered the consequences of driving with a missing foglight. Oops. But hey, the bumper cover held on by 2 bolts did great. So the rest of the front end got assembled today. New Diode Dynamics LEDs in the fogs, new Morimoto 55W bulbs, a headlight adjustment, and a sore back from endlessly persuading the front bumper cover to line up properly. My grill is toast (note the missing emblem) but I can't bring myself to drop almost 300 for a new one. That'll probably be a scrapyard find. Yesterday I tracked down the exhaust leak and swapped out that 3" gasket. The donut needs to be replaced as well so I made a Grimmspeed order. I'm just glad to be driving with the windows up.

I figured as much. I taped and tucked it away for now, I'll cut it next time I'm in there. Hopefully that 15 year old solder job holds because that one will suck to fix.

Worked on odds and ends this weekend. Replaced my HID bulbs and cleaned up the wiring, eyeballed the alignment, pulled apart the fog lights, broke the blower motor, and found a coolant leak. Heuberger should give me frequent flyer miles. I've been combing the car looking for missing bolts and clips. Turns out there's quite a few that never made it back on to the car over the years. I started wiring for a new sound system so that I can put the interior back in. While I was cleaning things up behind my receiver I found this spliced in to my cubby wiring. I don't solder so it wasn't me. Does anyone know what this could be for? Aftermarket boost gauge maybe? Tomorrow I'm fixing my exhaust leak so I can drive with the windows up. Maybe I'll finally start installing the second skin insulation. For some reason I've been dreading that.

I had a gut feeling that I had a boost leak. I remembered seeing oil on the turbo flange the last time I took the intercooler off about 4 years ago, so I replaced the gasket. I have been dreading pulling a LV after years of sitting (it's taken a week just to get the exhaust to clear up) but I grew a pair and did it. The car is happy and I am happy.