BBPeik

^^^That, Call me crazy, but it could be Subaru new what they were doing and did not give the 3.6 a manual option for just that reason. As much as us enablers hate to admit it, sometimes the manufacturers know what they are doing.

Could also be the control arm bushings. They sometimes make a clunking noise when they start to go bad.

I had a kid in a 2011ish VW GTI today kind of behind and to the right of me at a light. He spent a whole lot of time looking at my car, I assume trying to figure out what it was. Then when we took off he passed me and then went in front and I saw him looking in his rear view. Finally he pulled up next to me at the next light and rolled down the window. He said" what the heck is that" I said legacy and he said" looks really sweet, is it quick". I said thanks and yes and took off like a bat out of hell. I can only imagine what he is thinking now.

I wouldn't think temp would have much affect either. Even though in cold weather the dense air creates more boost the mbc is pretty simple. Pressure makes it open and that is that. I would be interested to hear more about the shops theory on weather making that setup a pain. Hmmm

^^^Now thats funny

when I did my suspension the top hats were ok. That being said they were real dirty and had road crud all up in them. I made sure to give them a real good cleaning before reassembly. Just a good idea to check them as Brandon^ suggested.

Never mind on the parts prices. Just found them, but the abs question still applies.

Thanks

What is a ballpark price on the rotors. Just trying to decide if I really want to do this. Also does the abs system need to be recalibrated after the install or is it ok with the upgraded system.

Thanks in advance

Brendan

^^^Glad I was able to get them at the cheaper price. I know people have varied opinions on them, but so far I love them.

Car: 2010 LGT premium Graphite Grey Metallic

Mileage:58,000

Age:36

Job: Cabinetshop owner/Realtor

 

First Subaru and its one of my favorite cars I have owned. Thats saying something since I have had about 25 since I turned 16

 

Current Mods:

Blacked out Headlights

Dipped Grill

De badged

STS Short Shifter

Perrin shifter bushing

Perrin wrx short shift

Bilsteins

Eibach springs

Eibach rear sway bar

Whiteline fsb

Cross drilled front rotors

Accessport V3

Cryotune Stage 1

Factory boost guage

DAMD steering wgeel

19" TSW Nurburgring Bronze wheels

This is now a definite for me. I just had a new clutch installed along with my rebuilt transmission. On a side not I discovered that I have the sts short shifter and the perrin bushings as well. Anyway, my clutch was real worn before and it somehow was much easier to drive. Now that I have the new clutch I feel like an idiot trying to drive. The engagement is all over the place. I even stalled today. Talk about feeling like an idiot.

I will be ordering the part monday and plan on doing it next weekend. Sounds like it will be well worth it.

Brendan

only places you'll see them is at home grown places and even most of them don't have them because of exactly what we are talking about hahaha. i ask subaru everytime to give me something with a stick as a loaner and they just laugh. i honestly feel if i bring a turbo manual car in i should get at least a turbo or a manual to drive around for the day.

 

I agree. If only dealers felt the same. When I used to bring my wifes lexus in for work at the dealer I always used to get a camry as a loaner. Somehow just not the same thing.

Negative toe is toe out. In the rear, you want absolute zero, to error slightly on positive(in) toe.

 

That is what I meant. Sorry for the mistake.

Brendan

Thanks for all the replies

I know I dont want toe out in the rear. I am looking for zero to slight negative. As far as tires I know they will make a big difference as well. I will be getting different rims and tires in a couple months so I should probably just leave it until then. I definitely need to get the camber tweaked though.

Thanks again for all the help

The wealth of info on here is really great

The front toe is positive. So far the car drives pretty nice. It doesnt seem to twitchy at all and handles well. I would like a bit more oversteer though. I do not really have a problem with more negative camber in the front. Can I use the camber bushing kit in the rear like RCE sells? Anyone have experience with those kits? Good Bad?

As far as the caster I am not sure. The car is straight and has never been in an accident. All I can think is that one of the tophats is screwy or maybe a lca bushing is going bad.

 

I am going to take it to a good place soon, but I want to get what parts I may need to get it set up correctly. I also figure I should get some miles on it to let it settle a bit before I get a final alignment.

 

From what I have read on here it does need adjustment.

For final I am thinking

Front

camber -1.2

toe 0

Rear

Camber -.08

toe 0

These figures seem better in you guys experience?

 

Thanks again for the help.

I just want to make sure I get it right.

Brendan

That is what I figured. Are there any preferences on the lca's. Better brand than another etc.

Thanks

Brendan

So I finally got my Bilsteins on Thursday. So my current setup is GTWorx Bilsteins, Eibach pro kit springs, and an eibach 22mm rear sway bar. I took it to get an alignment yesterday at a local place and I have to say I was very underwhelmed. The guy was not exactly competent and took forever. But anyway I will post the specs that I have after his alignment. I am going to be taking it to another place next week that is really good because I am just not happy with what I have. Please give me any thoughts on the current setup and where it would be best set.

 

Front: Left Right

Camber -.7 -.4

Caster 6.2 5.2

Toe 1/32 1/32

 

Rear: Left Right

Camber -1.8 -1.6

Toe 0 0

 

Thanks for any advice

Brendan

Old guy: "That's Subaru? That looks nice! I thought they only made wagons!"

 

Thinking to myself: I wish it was a wagon

 

I agree completely. If only I had a fifth gen LGT wagon