BBPeik
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Posts posted by BBPeik
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fahr_side
Is the scoop the main limiter? Any ways besides meth injection to cool down the charge?
Thanks in advance
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Dumb question time
What is a 20 G vs ours (18G right)?
What is a G exactly
How much can be gained by going to a 20G? Can Stock intake and exhaust still be used?
TIA
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wow i am speechless
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Any idea what the rotor diameter is on those? Stock LGT is like 310mm right?
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Interesting for sure. My only concern would be any future leaks caused by this first hiss. Did hitting that high psi cause a small leak that will progress? No data, just some food for thought.
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I thought about doing the valve springs either way. Budget won out though and I just went for redone heads with new exhaust valves(stock size).
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I thought long and hard about doing the cams when my motor was out. I just could not find any real definitive info on them. Not enough to make a decision anyway. I was worried about smog too. After reading this I may be regretting that decision. At least it is super easy to pull the motor if I change my mind.
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I think GTEASER is right. Only the exhaust cams are different.
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Much appreciated! But not to worry, I will keep tinkering and inevitably the thread will continue to grow!
In preparation for potential future plans, I wanted to get peoples input on what cams they have used for those who have upgraded. If I am understanding correctly, the '08+ STi cams will work as a direct drop-in because they also have the slot machined in for the oil scavenge pump, correct? Are there any other options people have used?
I thought that they had to be machined to fit the scavenge pump. I could be totally wrong on this though. Mike from infamous would know for sure.
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Congratulations on finally resolving the issue. I must agree with the others though. I am sooo going to miss this thread.
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^^^Interesting theory on the valve spring. You would think you would hear it, but at this point who knows. Could be anything.
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When I just did the head studs my heads were 450 to have the valve job done and the valves adjusted. There should not be any extra cost to do new exhaust valves besides the cost of the valves. That was the cost from the machine shop. All the labor on the engine I did myself so I can not comment on what that would cost.
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I am pretty much all out of suggestions. Other than a giant dent in your exhaust somewhere I am unfortunately going back to GT's suggestion. Ensure you still have good compression.
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Pull the rear driveshaft and take it for a spin. It will be messy, but would diag the problem.
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Any chance the maf could be giving false readings?
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He has a catless dp.
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I figured the same thing, but figured it would be worth a check. Possibly a bearing in the trans is bad or something, but this is a very confusing problem.
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Long shot, but maybe a hung up caliper?
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I am pretty sure that when you disconnect the battery and then reconnect, when you first turn the key to on the throttle opens and closes to learn its limits. Not sure about the tgv though. This could be an easy way to at least check the throttle.
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You are right on the high rpm roughness. Interesting. I have no help for you, but it is strange.
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I know this may be a stupid question, but have you checked the throttle body hose and or the bpv hose for small tears or leaks. It seems simple, but the throttle body hose having a leak could be a possibility. The car would still read boost, but you lose it all by the time it gets to the engine. Silly, but maybe?
Jackal's 20g to 18g e85 Soap Opera
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
Posted