Apexofthevortex

Can anyone get an answer to this? I'm told that the dump pipe diameter matches the wheel opening and is supposed to be centered exactly over the wheel. But it seems that if it is the inside diameter that matches the wheel, then it wouldn't be possible to center the pipe over the wheel no matter what since you'll hit that far wall. I guess it doesn't matter at this point, just curious.

 

What I find strange is that the gap between the wheel opening and flapper looks like a good 1/4 of an inch. Right?

 

That's what I would think. I haven't seen the stainless hardware at all but like Teaser said a combination of the hardware and the pipe expanding could potentially bridge that gap. I would also take into consideration that since these are handmade it's very possible that there could be slight imperfections across the board the dump pipe itself may slightly offset in a perfect way that could cause issues but cant be seen with a naked eye. Just an idea but maybe you could somehow use something to mark where the dump tube is touching, like put some material or fluid that would be safe inside the turbo on the ring of the dump tube, mock it up, and see where it leaves the ring. That probably wont do anything if it only gets blocked under load but if its always hitting that might tell you something.

I reused my OEM studs, and haven't noticed that issue. Definitely worth a try

^^^ And you're running the stock turbo?

 

Yeah, my tuner says that he can control boost better with it and keep it from boost creeping. I figure it's not too expensive so its worth a shot.

Getting mine retuned for 3-port, TMIC, and charge pipe tomorrow, no problems yet other than boost creep tripping the MAP sensor. We'll see how it goes.

So it's not the boost controller or anything related to tunning. It's either the WG actuator or the flapper can't physically open due to a blockage. Car is going on the lift for further analysis. Grr things started out smooth...

 

Sent from my One using Tapatalk

 

Is it throwing a code at you? If i step on mine in 4th gear no matter what rpm I'm at boost creeps all the way up to 24psi then I get a fuel cut and p0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure High Input. My tuner recommended a 3-port, so that and TMIC+charge pipe are going in on Tuesday. If it still creeps after all that then I'm thinking porting the turbo will be the next course of action.

Don't know if anyone has said this, but is it possible that the ECU itself could be on its way out?

https://www.stillen.com/rs-r-2010-2012-subaru-legacysports-i-series-coilovers-xbif660m.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA64uyBRCVmKyT2vuAjzgSJADfINB6CXkI57ndxZi_B9uZ6djiIM2aGSNoPLByPN_yC53ohhoCBdrw_wcB

 

Found these while surfing the web today. Don't know if anyone knows about these yet but I thought I'd let everyone know. They look really nice but they're pretty expensive

The description is pretty funny. "Improve the performance right away!"

fahr_side always coming through with the knowledge. How did you get to be such a wizard?

Now I'm no expert and I'm not saying that isn't worth trying, but if the MAF did take a dump wouldn't that throw off your AFR and be very easy to spot in the logs?

Was that a subtle enable? Because I have been on the fence about E85:icon_mrgr

Thanks, I'll do that and let you all know. For all intensive purposes how much do you all think we can safely run through this turbo before it explodes?

Ugh, I really hope it's not creep. That's how mine was when I realized that I was creeping (invidia catted dp). I threw that code about 3 times hitting anywhere from 22-24 psi easily, when I was set to 21.

 

From what I've read our stock MAP sensor trips that code at around 24 psi. Do the 3 bar map sensors for the 4th Gen and WRX Fit our cars?

Opened it up for the first time yesterday. Wouldn't you know, it threw p0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure High Input at me. The car doesn't appear to be down on power at all, but its gonna have to go back to the tuner I don't know what he set my boost target to but I got it up to 21 psi this morning when I did a pull. From what I've read it could be a whole slew of problems anything from a boost leak to to MAP/MAF issues. Any insight is much appreciated.

Forgot to ask if this was on 91oct or 93oct

 

Its 93, my stock clutch is sitting at 78k last 18 were stage 1 and it still grabs like a champ

Dp, go fast bits bov, and N1 catback not axleback so it's a full tbe. 1/2 nameless Dp 1/2 invidia n1

Just the N1 and a GFB BPV. No baseline dyno graph unfortunately.

I've got the N1 which makes sense why its loud. Its about the same at crushing speed but much louder when you open it up.

Just got mine installed yesterday. Luckily there's a dyno about 5 minutes from my house. I believe it was 280whp/345wtq notice how smooth the curve is. My tuner says "do you have a 3-port? Your curve is gonna be all over the place if you don't":lol:. It is much louder than I expected. Is that amount of torque normal for stage 2? I always thought 300/300 was the standard. Sorry for the shitty pic but it helps to see the curve.

Looks great man!

Thank you for your help

 

What do you think about a Invidia N1 catback i was considering this one but was to its too loud for a non turbo what are your thoughts and would you have any suggestions for any good ones

 

I just bought an N1 not too long ago. I definitely enjoy the sound it's not as loud as I thought it would be based on what other people have mentioned. I live in Virginia where you can be pulled over for your exhaust being too loud, I drive by police all the time and don't get any unwanted attention. That being said though it is definitely not quiet either. It's got a nice rumble at idle and gets pretty loud if you step on it. I'm sure once I get a down-pipe it'll be much louder. Also I've got my OEM catback from a 12 GT that I will be putting on the classifieds soon if anyone is interested shoot me an offer.

I really appreciate all the info guys. I've got some thinking to do before I make any big decisions but I've got way more to go off of now than I did this morning.

FWIW, the stock GT brakes are pretty good. I track my car with the stock rotors and calipers and use Carbotech pads. I have used XP12 and XP8. They are dusty, but they do a helluva good job of stopping the car and the stock rotors are stout. I run rear STi Brembos and those will clear the stock wheels just fine.

 

Do you think stage 2 power levels will wear the stocks out faster?

Don't our Legacies have a 5x100 bolt pattern and those 08 plus STI rims have a 5x114? If that the case wouldn't I need spacers for those anyway?

Haha every time I log on I find something new I wanna do if my wallet had emotions it would hate this site, but yeah that's pretty much what I'm thinking especially if the spacers are 128 a piece. If I wait to do everything at once it'll probably cost me as much as a down payment on a new car. Of course I would never get rid of my GT there really is something special about these 5th gens that I just cant put my finger on. What size and offset rim would I need? Anyone got any recommendations?