Apexofthevortex

I agree. Without knowing where it was leaking from, its hard to really make an assessment. I do not want to use the phrase 'boost leak' again for a long, long time in conjunction with my own vehicle so I'm hoping that maybe a clamp or line he was trying to block just slowly started to open.

 

Will this small leak turn out to be a harbinger of worse things to come or is it nothing and has the Panda finally restored to it's former Angry state? All this and more on 'The Boosted and the Beautiful'

 

Stay tuned!

 

Still a fan!

 

The show must have been so popular that the producers decided to bring it back for a second season

^^^ Mega Karma...don't you worry.

 

That's what I thought, but this morning I parked on the street because the garages don't open till 6. They start writing tickets at 7 and when I went to move my car the parking nazi was there writing me a ticket at 7:02. I'm so salty

That's what I'm thinking and what was suggested by my reputable tuner after checking the car top to bottom. The problem only gets serious around 30F though so some people may never see this. But since we can have stretches of -10F for weeks here, I just don't think it could be a problem I'd feel comfortable living with. The one time I hit boost cut in 3rd, I had started at 3000 RPM and was at 21 psi before 4000 RPM. That's nuts. I'd have to drive around never exceeding half throttle when it gets cold.

 

Perhaps a longshot, but has your turbo ever been rebuilt maybe before you bought the car or did you buy it new?

I was driving in to work today around 2am..... yes I really went in at 2am to bust out a 12 hour shift. Right before I got there I see a dude standing on the side of the road with jumper cables in his hands. I must have been the first person he saw in a little while because he was already flagging me down before I pulled over to ask him if he needed a jump. When I pulled the car up and got out he say's "Damn that thing sounds nice, you do any racing?" Charged up his battery and got on my way. Hopefully I won some karma points for that.

I believe Cobb never made a Stage 2 OTS map for the 2012.

 

They didn't but they made one for the 2010 and maybe the 2011 as well, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use that one.

Correct. But a 3 inch exhaust is a 3 inch exhaust. Shouldn't be different flow wise to the other options. It has one resonator and straight through mufflers.

 

What was the temperature when you were overboosting?

 

Yeah I would think it shouldn't be a problem, I'm just trying to think of any variables with your setup. The temps were fairly mild when I was overboosting I'd say about 55-70F, it wasn't that cold when I got tuned. It's starting to get pretty cold now, target is 18 or 19 and it does creep to about 20psi but stays pretty steady there.

I'm curious what the temperature was for them. I believe if I were to get tuned in the spring/summer there would probably be no obvious problem. But when it gets cold no after market DP is going to cure this problem. I thought that this DP being a divorced style would help but that appears to not be the case. Dense air + free flowing exhaust + tiny IWG =

 

Logs do show 0 wgdc. I can post one.

 

I haven't over boosted since I got a 3-port put in, they're not crazy expensive so I think it may be worth a try for you. Also you have the just the front nameless dump pipe mated to an avo dp right? Just throwing the idea out there but maybe those two don't play nice together.

Nameless Downpipe, Invidia N1 catback

Sick, Thank you sir.

 

Here's a link to the video, I tried to embed it but can't seem to get it to work.

Does anyone have a video of the exhaust yet? I am stuck overseas and haven't even seen mine in person yet.

 

Do mean a video of the parts out of the box or a video of it installed. I've got a video of mine on the dyno if thats what you mean, I've been slacking on uploading it but I know everyone else was asking for it so I'll try to do it tonight.

I did take a video when I first got it installed, I'll check to see if you can hear the mach 2 in the video. My mach 2 is sitting in my garage shoot me a PM if you want it MKE.

I have the turbosmart Kompact which is a stock replacement so yes full recirc it sounds just like it did with the stock one. I don't hear anything other than some spooling and engine revving. Maybe I am doing something wrong, but I also don't drive with my windows open usually.

 

I don't think youre doing anything wrong, I've got a TS kompact as well and I was also concerned by how quiet it is because I got one with my Rx charge pipe and replaced my GFB mach 2 which pretty much always went off and I'd say it was pretty loud for a BPV thats 100% recric. I did some research and everyone seems to say that the kompact is silent so I'm sure it was just designed that way

I'm glad the cam discussion was brought up, would it be worth getting new exhaust cams before upgrading the turbo?

So the spec sheet says 2.5 liter and the description says 3.6 turbocharged. What motor does that thing really have?

Who is your tuner? Cryo and Tuning Alliance have done 5th Gens.

 

 

I had a local shop here in Fairfax called Moore Automotive tune it for me, all these years and I had no clue there was a dyno 5 minutes down the street from my house. I might talk to cryo or TA as well, the only reason I'm a little worried about doing an e-tune is that there aren't a lot if any roads around here that I can do a full 3rd gear pull on without potentially losing my license. They're pretty big speed nazis here in VA, anything over 80mph or 20 over the limit is considered reckless and if the cop really wants to ruin your day they can take your license for 6 months and they can even throw you in jail, it really makes me miss the massive desolate highways in Colorado

Not sure if I missed it, but Apexofthevortex, did you get your boost issue solved?

 

I haven't tripped the MAP code since after the retune, so thats a good sign. I haven't been monitoring boost lately but if I remember correctly my target is set to 18 and when I was eyeing it after the retune it crept up to 20-21 so I'm pretty sure I'm still creeping but as long as I don't get that MAP code every time I do a 4th gear pull I'm not too worried about it. My car was also the first 5th gen my tuner ever tuned. I might get into contact with Logan or take it to TurboXS after the holidays just to get a second opinion on the tune. All in all I'm happy with it right now, I don't think my clutch is very happy with it though:lol:

What if the issue isn't a broken valve spring but just weak valve springs? Then the car might idle fine and run reasonably well at lower RPMs. It still doesn't miss or run rough at higher RPMs, just runs out of power...Hmmmm........something else to check?

 

Maybe a dumb question, but have you gotten back on a dyno since this started happening to see how much power or torque you've actually lost? I know some shops will sell single pulls for around 120 bucks so you don't have to pay the full price for a protune.

I'm gonna bring it back to what Brandon mentioned a while ago regarding the traction control possibly cutting in. Thinking about it logically, if the engine is making power and the drive-train can move freely without slipping somewhere or some kind of mechanical obstruction that would leave only your tires or something electrical getting in the way. I think tires would be pretty obvious if they were the culprit, but I think it would be possible for TC to be holding you back. If you haven't already I'd try unplugging the ABS wheel sensors. I think I speak for everyone when I say we're all pulling for you, what that one dude said about this thread being like a netflix drama with no last episode is so true.

moore blast plates, OEM gears (all + main bearings) with REM treating from Rallispec.

 

Are those the same blast plates that are made for the 5-speed? I was looking into getting a set to throw on when I need a new clutch but I wasn't sure if they'd fit our cars. Any noticeable difference in shift feel since installing the blast plates?

I got pretty lucky with mine, I was on the hunt for a comfortable highway cruiser because the civic I had simply didn't work on Colorado highways and cross country road trips. After some discussion with the dealer the verdict was that finding a new one in Colorado wasn't gonna happen and they'd have to get one somewhere else. About a month after that the semester ended and I came home for summer. One night while browsing cars.com I saw one that had just been posted that day in Annapolis, Maryland. The ad had no pictures and a short description but I had to go see it and the rest was history. I'm not sure why they had one sitting in the lot, but as far and wide as I'd been searching I wasn't gonna let one that close slip through my fingers.

 

I've also finally got my VIN and build date. The VIN is 1039839 and the build date is 4/2012, so mine actually isn't the last one built. I'm also up to Stage 2+ from stock listed in the registry

Finally back home, It was a short drive back from the shop so I haven't gotten on it yet. Numbers are pretty much the same as before because I told him to not go full retard on the tune. I'll take a pic for you guys on my way out, but a spirited drive is in order now that rush hour is over.

Haha those are the the type of issues you wanna have. I also need to add that my stock charge pipe was caved in at the bov connection and at another spot. If anyone is planning on running it with the DP I'd highly advise against it

On the dyno again as we speak. No issues so far. More updates to come

can you tell i play with tiny tolerances for a living hahahaha

 

Don't they say its not the size of the tolerance that matters, its how you use it.