Falcor

In some uses at work we run a bolt through them a few times after welded on and plated to open them up. Then they are basically a normal nut.

They showed me the printout and both fronts were around -1.5 ish (if I remember correctly). I went right to Subaru and got the nuts. Went ahead and got all 4 and will hopefully get them swapped out this weekend.

I'll add the MAP sensor...for some reason I thought you said MAF.

Added rear adjustable LCA's when the suspension was done. I have a feeling it was right when it left the shop and was bumped out of alignment with the old nuts reinstalled.

Here is the printout from the first alignment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I pick it up today I'll check the alignment sheet.

You are correct. I just checked the service manual and they use self locking nuts. They are probably crimp nuts like we use at work (mechanical crimp). They can loose the ability to hold if a bolt runs back and forth a few times. All I need to do is get a couple crimp nuts then. They said the alignment was correct, but I have a feeling the original crimp nut didn't have the strength to keep it from bumping out of alignment.

That's what I was thinking.

The alignment was done right after I installed the new suspension. I reused all the original nuts and bolts in the front (I came from Jeeps, don't know any better). I bought the 3 year option since I knew it would go back after the springs settled. I don't know why the bolt would need replaced.

Tires Plus wanted $42.99 for the bolt kits and $69.99 per side to install. I called a Subaru dealer and they recommended aftermarket bolts since it is lowered. I would think that with the new KYB struts used (with Koni's) that the factory bolt would be fine.

Took the GT in for an alignment and they said the front camber bolts need replaced (it's pulling to the right). How would they go bad? I reused the originals. They told me I should have used new bolts. After a quote of $223.96, I'm doing it myself.

Log below: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iLBCRYbk2oJ6nQgKX9RDFkQqoEWlLWOxU3lIbUgh0FU/edit?usp=sharing

That is a good point.

I’ll add these to the log and get the info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sent a few logs from Thursday and Friday to Matt @ Cobb customer service (they have been very helpful along with the forum) and here is what he had to say: Thanks for sending those logs over! It's interesting to see. DAM learns to 1.0, but then there are these random, instant counts of -5.6 Feedback Knock that our logged under partial throttle. I think those instances are what pulls DAM back down to 0.875 and 0.8. At this juncture, it's possible that the knock control sensor could use replacing and/or there's some sort of NVH (loose heatshield or similar) in the engine bay that is creating a noise resembling knock. It may be worth taking a look through to see if anything along those lines may be at play. Sorry I don't have anything utterly specific to point out! Anyone else had a knock sensor go wonky before? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What year is the XJ? I used to have a ‘90 on 31’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am wondering if there is a boost leak somewhere I didn’t see. I sprayed down all the connections I could see with soapy water after I blew into it. This was my rigged up pressure check. I took the air box off and plugged the hole with a 3” test plug. Blew into the piece of clear hose I had and the only leak I found was around the bolt I stuck into the hose. I think the next step would be to get an actual pressure tester with a gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I cleaned the MAF last weekend with CRC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3rd gear. Didn’t check the speed. I’m guessing 25 up to 70ish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AIcpts0D3flURm5nXy5KrBeahh8Ifvoz7JYP__1Nq_E/edit?usp=sharing

Log from this afternoon: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1q8P3xW7FPHty4LlPxNdYGPTsEUZSdZuq7t6RNGX9ZYI/edit?usp=sharing Also, I found the high wastegate map on Cobb's site.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did get the DAM up to 1.0 today on the way home. Was kinda shocked actually. I do have the log and will post it later. I also contacted Cobb and customer support is helping also. They had me log a pull to check. They didn’t see anything that caught their eye as to why DAM was low. They also suggested trying to run the high wastegate version of the map. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll try that again. I wanted to full out a boost leak at the throttle body connector so I removed the rubber ends and put it all back together, no change. The DAM started back over at .812 again and jumped to .875 after going on the test drive. For some reason it always drops back down to .812. That’s not even the part that concerns me. It’s the fact that max boost dropped a couple psi. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Filled up with good gas and added the octane booster. Stepped into it getting on the highway and DAM hit .938. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used it on a couple cars in the past and it holds up fairly well. A lot of people use it. As an option there is also Superwrap. It is a spray vinyl.