YeuEmMaiMai

reman CVT causing a very intermittent engine stumble when coming to a stop... flashing CEL and AWD Light.... car has never done this with the original CVT da fuq?

you have to get the inserts that have the holes in hem

Better than being dumb and paying more than you have to for said parts btw, if you live ANYWHERE were it is cold and you get a lot of snow LED lights are a big fat fail, they do not produce enough heat to keep your lamps clear like Xenon and Halogen do

^you are, that is normal maint on the car

have not had any issues with the battery in my "14 legacy that is original. Car cranked slower than usual with the temps in the low 20's but not a big deal. Last year the car was able to start with the temps on -27F days

your best bet regardless of tires is to no over drive the car in said conditions. Sure All seasons are weaker but most accidents are caused by driver error vs. mechanical issues

I have Bridgestone Serenity + tires on both of my Subaru's and they work just fine in the snow. If I had the space and the extra $$ I would have snow tires. The stock EL400 were good in the snow as well. The key to driving in the winter time is to not over drive your car.

I did mine with the car on the ground and it was fairly easy.. you need to have the suspension loaded when you install the bar so the bushings are not being loaded when the car is placed back onto the ground. Putting the car up on ramps will also keep the suspension loaded.

bar comes with bushings and you will re-use all other hardware. also I would remove bar and end links as a unit as it is a PITB to get the end links off if you have had your car for a few years. I ended up ordering new end links... These are the part numbers you will get Part Number(s): Bar 20451VA000 - Bushings 20464VA000 x2

3.6R with CVT drives pretty much effortlessly. The ones I drove felt like a regular automatic....

if you are getting a used cluster, the mileage is going to be whatever the car that it came from was. Subaru is unwilling (in my experience) to reprogram the mileage. I sent mine out and I got it back with the mileage I wanted within 100 miles. On the 10-12 cars, good luck getting the data to be sent by CANbus as that came with the updated power train/BUI/etc.

the lower cladding is level with your driveway... it looks like it is sagging due to smaller rear wheel well openings

my friend's 2013 Outback CVT crapped out... just under 73K he was getting surging at low rpms and dealer said 9K to fix if not under warranty... da fuq?

man whenever I work on my car I always remove the negative terminal and wrap it in a non conductive piece of electrical tape... even then you are supposed to wait 15 or so minutes to ensure all circuits are dead

the warranty terms are as follows if your car is over 100K 1 year warranty from July 2017 through July 31 2018 regardless of mileage on car all other cars that are under 10 years old and under 100K miles . The warranty extends powertrain warranty on the CVT until 10 years or 100K.

my 03 was inspected and no problem was found. They can go through the glove box area on a lot of cars to R&R them.

I also got the letter 2 days ago, complete with claim form

heat shields, most likely

Even the 5th gen had hold able gears via the shift paddles...you could activate it at any time and it would hold whatever gear you wanted while going down hill. The only difference between a shifting CVT and a shiftless one is software programming...

if I am not mistaken I believe that the engine mounts are slightly different on an outback. will also need the longer brake lines on all 4 corners

I have driven both models with and without simulated shifts. after about 5 minutes I don't even notice anymore. I read an interview where Subaru stated that they put the simulated shifts back into the CVT because their customers were not happy with the "shiftless" operation of the CVT.

can one of the MODs make a sticky thread with the PDF in it?

Just be thankful that you do not have JATCO making your transmissions those belts are by FAR weaker than that chain Subaru uses and that thing breaks in a most noticeable way when a pulley over extends and jams up

find me a state where lemon laws apply after factory warranty has expired and you have your first issue? Where I live you can only claim lemon law when the first repair attempt falls within the first 2 years of car ownership and it may be extended to the third under certain circumstances and that is within the time period of the 3/36 warranty. some states may make that time frame shorter or longer. Steering or brake issues are issues that can be claimed under the third year. Mileage where I live is irrelevant...

^ lemon laws apply to any car that is still under manufacturer warranty and depending upon when they bought their car, they may still be under that warranty. Where I live they use the following criteria to determine lemon law worthiness: 1. Four or more unsuccessful attempts to repair the same defect; or, 2. One unsuccessful attempt to repair a defect that has caused the complete failure of the steering or braking system and that is likely to cause death or serious bodily injury; or, 3. A car that has been out of service due to warranty repairs for 30 or more cumulative business days. 4. In each case the initial defect must occur within the warranty period, or two years, whichever comes first, but the manufacturer’s repair attempts may extend to the end of the third year. Even if you do not meet one of the above categories, you may still have a lemon law claim, but it will be harder to prove.