vanman

I’m looking for one of these. The one behind the turbo broke. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We scooped out all the grease we could and then added fresh grease. We also found out how soft aluminum is. We stripped one the bolt hole for the crossover tube. We put a heli-coil into it and then we did it again. So, we’re getting pretty good at putting the heli-coils in. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here's the link to autobahn directly. Slightly cheaper and more colors if your into that. https://autobahn88shop.com/collections/subaru-hose-kit

Replaces just the boots. Still have the OEM axles.

Since the engine is out, we could see that both inner CV boots were cracked open as well as the driver side steering rod boot. We changed all three of these. Boy what a mess that is. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I found it. The vapor canister purge solenoid. Part # 16102AA340, $52. At least it wasn't the $345 manifold absolute pressure solenoid.

I finally broke something. Anybody know what sensor this is? It in the middle of the manifold towards the back. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Replaced the front seal. We got the cam sprockets torqued down. We replaced all of the rubber gas lines. Still waiting on vacuum lines. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We put as many coolant hoses on as possible today. Here is my review. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/question-there-complete-silicone-hose-set-readily-availablei-275834p3.html We also put on the oil dipstick, the left back timing belt cover (also scrubbed off the foam gaskets and put new ones on) and the tensioner bracket. Waiting for vacuum hoses now.

I got the set yesterday. There were only 4 hoses that fit good, the upper and lower radiator hoses, the turbo inlet hose and the outlet hose from the turbo expansion tank to the coolant return line. There are other pieces of hose that I can cut up to use around the oil cooler and the water pump. And there are other hoses that don’t fit anywhere on the OBXT. One or both of the heat hoses may work but it is not shaped like the original. I probably won’t know until the engine is back in. I’m deleting the throttle body heater, so I will cut up some of the leftover for this. If you wanted to keep this, there is plenty of the smaller hoses to cut up. The only hose I don’t have a replacement for is the one that goes from the turbo expansion tank to the radiator and the larger return hose to the water pump. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Should I wrap the exhaust manifold and the up pipe and put a blanket around the turbo?

Of course I find this thread after I spent $80 on 3 new buckets. They are now $28 each plus tax. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We got the cam seals and valve covers put back on. We did another leak down test. The results for cylinders 1, 3, 2 and 4 are 5, 10, 5, and 5%. So it looks like cylinder 1 is fixed. We are awaiting silicone hoses from Amazon for a 2008 WRX. Should be here on Monday. I report back on the fitment. Since the engine is out, should I change the rear main seal? It’s not leaking at all. I got 3 of them in the kit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just purchased this on Amazon. I'll let you how well it fits (if at all). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6QA4OO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I purchased this last month but will probably return it since most do not fit. It'd be a lot of cut and paste. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0158E8MBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We put the valve buckets, cams and caps back on. We used rtv, and the measured the valve clearances. Of course some of them were off and so, we took the caps off. I noticed that there was RTV in the oil channels (all 4 of them). Good thing I had to take this off again. We’ll be much more sparing next time. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We got the gasket set in. We put in a Moroso oil pickup and put the oil pan back on yesterday. Today, we put the valve seals, the valves, spring seat, spring, retainers and keepers in. Tomorrow, we’ll put the heads on, valves buckets, and cams. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We have the Infamous Performance oil by pass (version 1, I think). What is the current thought on it? Keep it or use OEM without the banjo filters. As far as I know, it’s done us good for 60000 miles. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We power washed the heads, valve covers and the front part that bolts the cam shafts down. We washed all the small parts including the bolts. We did a semi TGV delete by taking the plates out. We’ll keep the motors and sensor plugged in for now so we don’t get a CEL. Does anybody know if we can delete the motor and the sensor from the ECU? I know we can delete the warning. Any suggestions for motor mounts, keeping in mind it’s an AT. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We order 2 intake valves from parts.subaru.com on 11/13 and I just got them yesterday. Never again We lapped the remaining valves on the passenger side today. We’ll power wash them tomorrow. I order the gasket set and the timing belt and water pump kit today. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. I sent them in yesterday.

So it looks like ID only cleans their own injectors. Does anybody know who will clean oem injectors? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Who cleaned your injectors? I’m think about doing that now that my engine is out. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I turns out I do have covid. In fact 7 of 7 in my family got it. The kids had for 2-3 days and they were done. For me, it been going on for a week, but it's not the worse that I've ever felt. In any case, I had some time to do some research and I looked up what was involved in doing a head job. After review, I decided that we could do that ourselves. The worse that could happen is that we'd still have to take the heads to a machine shop. First thing we did was a leak test on the valves. We filled the valve side of the cylinder head with water and looked for leaks. There were none. We then directed compressed air into the intake and exhast separately. Intake 1 had a lot of air coming out of it. The remainder had some air coming out but not as much. Conclusion is intake valves 1 need replacing. The remaining valves need lapping. We took the valves out and visible they all looked the same. I chucked the valves on to a drill and watched the valve end carefully as they spun. They were all perfectly straight except intake valves 1, there was a slight wobble at the valves. Conclusion intake valves 1 bent. We've lapped the driver side head but nobody can get out to go to the dealer to buy 2 intake valves for the passenger side. My sons quaranttine is up today so I'll send him out to get valves and valve stem seals. We've measured the cylinder head surface and it had a gap of 0.03 mm. I believe this isslight off spec. I think it should be 0.02 mm or less. So we sanded thee head surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Problably put 100 strokes in it. It now is less than 0.015 mm. Next, we'll power wash everything. I'll put it in the oven to dry overnite at 200 degrees and we'll start putting back together. Anything I missed?

We still haven’t taken the heads to the machine shop. My son got Covid and I suspect I have it. We both had headaches, body aches and fever. He is completely over it and hopefully it’s turning the corner for me. Since we’ve be held up and I’ve had some time to think. I was wondering is it worth trying to get more power out of the engine since it out now. First question is how strong is the 5eat? If not that strong, then maybe back to stock is best. How would the 5eat hold up to tgv deleletes, bigger injectors, new tmic and a cold air intake. How much HP gain do think I’d get from this? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Now, I've noticed the inner CV boots are cracked as well as the PS boot. We'll change these out but is there any reason why I can't just use a hose clamp on these. I think the clamps that come with it requires a tool?