vanman

I was going to take the heads to the machine shop this week and also have them look at the short block but kids and wife got sick so it'll be next week now. Do I check the injectors or do I take them somewhere to get checked and cleaned. And any recommendations who I would send to?

Let me try this: Cylinder 1 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xaB39aH7hcsmRnGPD1md_CvarqIjHPKG/view?usp=sharing Cylinder 3 https://drive.google.com/file/d/19DhF7hSP-IRJfn4jd7kX4L8WL20OjF4Q/view?usp=sharing Cylinder 2 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d2yMY3NMoRxdH_gOreSTFzg3-AdQCxg_/view?usp=sharing Cylinder 4 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N5urd-BbIEEUJtc5bND35aM9_azOCKb2/view?usp=sharing right sided heads - notice the broken exhaust cam sprocket https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c2tAnCfkaaBztAvm0vSNs_kL5FiC7gaz/view?usp=sharing left sided heads https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MUmfP60h1cpWjWB_qKviwlWVgTY8UmhU/view?usp=sharing

I won't take them until next week. I'll be sure to ask him Anything else I should do to the short block while it's on the engine stand? TGV deletes, oil pan, pickups? Other cylinders, I don't know if they'll show up. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNcyH96ENHsHefVJ5t5u0g9t6bjq4WGNWmvZFDk https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNDma1yD1nupltjLsYF9xGG6MHy6v0JO_mDzQhm https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOC_iZMxnntmDgFtClE46RQG3V7mOa4gcsk0WbW

Is this anything to worry about? This is cylinder 1 https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPK8tC4RoRQKpRjTlCFLQLlALqScC5DzGsv4lBo

Finally got the heads off. I found a machine shop in OKC that would do them for $400 for the pair plus parts. It'll probably end up being about the same but they come recommended by a Subaru performance shop. I tried to submit some pictures but I didn't have a security token or something like that. I didn't see anything in #1 that looked any different than the other 3.

What's the better value? I'd like to get your less biased opinion. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/776189586276972 $13200 firm. The original long block comes with it. or https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2928274 price dropped to $11500 due to oil leak at cam seal, exhaust leak at downpipe and a leak at the air inlet tube.

Here are my clearances Cylinder 1 I - 30 and 25 E - 30 and 30 Cylinder 3 I - 20 and 20 E - 37 and 38 Cylinder 2 I - 22 and 22 E - 30 and 35 Cylinder 4 I - 22 and 22 E - 33 and 32 Is cylinder 1 intake off because of a bent valve? If so, I don't correct this until after the head repair? And the other numbers won't change with the head job?

Also, I got a quote locally for head repair. $660 for both side and $144 for guides. Do I need to have both sides done? Is this something, I should send out? Again, my son is trying to minimize cost.

Here is my leakdown test results. How let me ask if I did this correctly since I've never done one before. I set the compressor to 100 PSI. Hooked up the leakdown tester and set to 0% leakage on the right gauge. The left gauge is showing about 27 psi. Connect tester to cylinder already set to TDC, Read tester and listen for leaks. The firing order is 1 (PF), 3 (PR), 2 (DF), 4 (DR). cylinder 1 - 14-22% air coming out of adjacent cylinder. plugged cylinder and air coming out of intake. cylinder 3 - 9-10% air coming out of oil filler cylinder 2 - 7-8% air coming out of oil filler cylinder 4 - 6-7% air coming out of oil filler.

OK. I'm running. The same response I got at nasioc.

2008, WRX, 142000 miles, bad clutch It hasn't been started in months. (I believe it, there were cobb webs in the engine compartment.) It started up after jumping it. It sounded ok. But when I had him rev the engine, blue smoke came out of both exhaust. Not just once but each of about 5 times when it was done. He wants $5000 for it. Thanks, Van

And will any Subaru clutch work?

So I rotated by hand and I got the following readings DR 41, DF 31, PR 25 and PF 44. Each one was done with 10 rotations of the crank nut. I don't know if this tells me anything. Can I get a old clutch and flywheel and bolt it on to the engine

So we got the engine out. I was going to do a compression test but since this is an automatic, the flywheel stayed with the transmission. So is there another way to crank the engine?

So my son and I decided that we're going to pull the engine ourselves. It only took 20 mins on youtube so maybe 40 mins for us (HAHA). We'll see what damage we can surmise and then make a decision as to what to do at that time.

I got the new timing belt on and buttoned everything back up. I didn't do any further compression test because of the location of the spark plugs. It starts up but it sounds like putt, putt, putt and only feels about half as strong as it use to. I called a place that is out of state that does a fair amount of Subaru's and they said, at a minimum a head job which would cost $3000. They also said to replace with an EJ20 it would be $3800. I found a place in Long Beach CA the would do the swap for $1900 (engine and labor). And they said that they've done a fair number of them with no CEL. I called another JDM motor place and aked them what was involved. He said I lonely had to exchange the intake and exhaust manifolds and the crank sprocket. I've found on this forum that one person just exchanged the intake and extended the O2 sensor on the exhaust? Any ideal what is really involved? I've also read somewhere the right cam sprocket needs to be changed? I know you can use the USDM ECU but not run the exhaust AVCS or add some wire and run it or use the JDM ECU. Again, we just want this car running with a minimum of costs. Again, thanks in advanced.

Nothing on the corners. There's are bolt holes for the guide over the crank but no guide.

The timing belt guides? Again this is an AT so, it didn't have any guides. Thanks for the help.

I did the compression test on one cylinder (forward driver side). It took me half a day to do and it's probably the easiest to get to. I got 100 psi and it held pressure. I think I'm just going to put it back together and see how it does. Of note, there was no belt guard or guide over the crank sprocket. Is that normal for an AT. I know they aren't on the sides.

Let me preface this by saying I have no experience in working with engines although I did change the turbo to a BNR 16 4 years ago and no issues. 175000 miles. It turns out one of the idlers seized and stripped the timing belt at the crank. I put a new timing belt and idler on and turn the engine over by hand. I don't feel or hear any compression (like you might pulling on a mower), so I'm not very optimistic. Before, I go to the trouble of bolting everything back together to see if it'll start, I may just try to do a compression test on it. But then again, what's easier a compression test where I may have to lift the engine or bolting everything back on? Assuming the engine is shot, what is my best choices? Scrap the car (I just put new ((Cheap)) tires on it, 4 year old BNR 16, I believe Invidia downpipe and whatever the next section is call. Some sway bar but I can't remember what. It needs a new wheel bearing in the back). Have somebody install a used or rebuilt engine. I don't think I can do it but I'm willing to try if it's not too bad. My mechanic (who's not a Subaru specialist) told me it would be about $1000 labor. If used EJ20 or EJ25? It's my son car. He doesn't have a whole lot of money. He can drive my old CRV until a decision is made but he'll have to get his own car at some point. Thanks in advance. Van

Dave has done a great job with my tune. Initially, he was able to detect that i forgot the restrictor pill when i installed the turbo. Then he was able to determine that i had the wrong gap in my spark plugs ( used the the -11 plugs). Six revisions so far and everything is running great. I would highly recommend. I don't think you can get a better tune in person or on a dyno.

This is a little different approach. I blew a turbo and was replacing with a BNR 16g but before before so, I wanted to do a compression test. Rather than doing the change from above, we did the change from below but there is still very little room. We ended up uping the car up on jack putting a hoist on the engine after the intercooler was removed. Removed one bolt of the dog bone thing up on top of the engine. Removed the 2 bolts for the engine on one side and slowly let the engine down about 2 inches. From there the coils are nearly exposed and you just take them out and do your compression test. Then raise the engine back up bolt it up and do the other side. It still took 4 hours the first time but that was only because we were figuring it out. As it turns out, after everything is put back together (including turbo. dp, up), my etuner notes that there is knocking at mid pull and questions the spark plugs I replaced. There were the infamous NGK -11. I did not regap them to 0.030. So we ended up doing it again 2 weeks after the first time. It still took 1.5 hours but I rather work in a space that I can get into rather than a small space where where I frustration levels would probably blow a head gasket on me. Hat off to those who can do it. Just another perspective. And don't forget to check the gap but only lightly. Is the OBXT any different than the LGT. Sure looked like a lot more space on the video of the rear diver side. Maybe just my imagination and dreading trying to get that coil pack out.

I changed the driver side rear wheel bearing last week. Not too bad to do. Here is a link to a You Tube video for a legacy. The only comment I have with the video is, don't use the hammer. It will take forever. I used the M8 bolt holes to take the rotor off and a puller to pull the bearing off. I think the bearing is symmetrical and there is no flatter side. I went with a Moog because it was available local and had a lifetime warranty. $95

05 obxt eat