jazzymt

Bummer bryan. It looks like the same radio. I can't understand why they'd change the pinouts. The whole setup looks like it's meant to be scalable & inter-compatible. If you can think of anything else to try, I (and other 2.5i owners) appreciate it, but I understand your frustration. You're sure you have the ribbon cables plugged in all the way?

What's the radio portion look like? It's the same type of cable (14pin flat) ...damn...there's got to be a way... You've already tried most everything I can think of though. My only suggestion would have been to try the cable in the other direction... Are you sure you're keeping the orientation in the same direction as how the cd normally plugs into the radio? Have you plugged it back in w/o the board to verify everything's still copasetic?

It's possible, but difficult. For one thing, it would be a fixed line level out since the volume is applied at the amplifier. Getting the CD audio would be simple, but the audio for AM/FM is elsewhere on the board & would require soldering...and again...no volume control. So, with some soldering, yes, you could get line level outs for both, but you'd still need separate volume control of your amp. So...I don't think that's quite what you were hoping for eh? bryanbrazil - I can't wait to hear if this works w/1CD units. Good luck!

Actually, I'm not running the same circuit. I modified it slightly to maximize the isolation between the CD changer and the aux port and minimize the impedance to the amplifier...so there is only half the resistance to the deck. Also, I think it should be noted that there is a big difference between headphone levels & line level outs. Line levels are essentially the maximum volume you can achieve without distortion to get the strongest audio signal possible & drop your S/N ratio whereas headphone voltage levels are much lower on average because they're generally not meant to be reamplified. Actually, there are similar problems with using LOC's on OEM radios & generally they're calibrated for use with relatively high volumes too. Anyway, if you're using a headphone jack, with *ANY* receiver/amplifier, you're going to have to turn it up louder than normal to hear it properly. I had to crank up the volume on my notebook and mp3 player headphone levels for use with my last stereo which had a aux port right on the front. The line level out on my Roady2 however is much louder and allows me to listen to music at a "talking" level at around 7-9 on the new stereo, "listening" level at around 15 and "rock out" level at around 22-24. Ipod/mp3 users should also be using some kind of a converter/docking mount that provides a line level out to achieve the best sound quality & a much closer match to internal volume/voltage levels (CD/FM) in the headunit. (morrias, I'm not sure why your line out levels seem to be below par, it should be a close match with CD/Radio volume?? Is anyone else experiencing low volume with a line level out?) One last thing to note is that most GLI's are passive transformers and will also add a small amount signal loss to your setup. Unfortunately, it's a necessary evil for several people, but if you're already at headphone voltage levels, it will further emphasise the problem.

For anyone dying to know (including me), I'm sending a board to someone with a 1CD headunit (2.5i) today to test it out & we'll have final word one way or the other Thursday (assuming USPS keeps up with their mail). I've just built up my parts stock again and should have assembled boards in stock for a good while longer. Hope everyone else's week is going well...mine's been busy as hell.

To answer the last question first...I don't think there's much chance this aux board works with the impreza HU. I dunno why mvigneau is advertising over on NASIOC. But, I'd love for someone to prove me wrong. Same goes for the Tribeca. The only 50/50 chance that it may or may not work on & I'm still hoping for is the 1CD Legacy/Outback radio. At least you lucky Impreza dogs can replace your radio entirely. n8gray - I'd love to give ya some advice on ground loops, but I'm like 0 for 10 on suggestions. I also don't know jack about Ipods or accessoires just yet, but that may change... As to the "future" board. Well...it's sort of in the future & funds are a tad tight right about now, but in a month or two, I probably will start work on it...and I'll probably make more than one version: a standard auto-sense aux-in and a fancy pants ipod controller...at least, that's what I'd like to do. Time will tell. Thanks again for the complements too guys. That's the sorta thing that makes you want to keep prices down & do more next time.

Thanks guys. I get a good smile out of each time I hear install stories like yours. I'm actually just as thankful to Centerpunch that figured out where the signals were in the first place (I like good sounding XM too eh?) and am happy to have found a way to distribute that good idea and allow other Subaru owners to enjoy it. I'm also UBER proud of my (so far) successful install instructions. I know nothing in this solutions is 'perfect', but so far it seems to have done the job well enough.

The stereo jack should plug in completely. If it's not in all the way flush, it's not in right. Is the heatshrink getting in the way? Depending on the size of your jack it may be necessary to cut more heatshrink off.

I have another crazy idea about why some are experiencing a ground loop problem. It's possible that the adapters some people are using do not tie the regulated ground back to the vehicle ground, but leave it floating...and others tie the regulated voltage back to vehicle ground. So even though the adapter is grounded, the "ground" you're plugging into your aux device possibly isn't. What brand / model adapters are people using & for what? Both with & without GL noise? Personally, I'm using the power adapter that came with my Roady2 XM unit, hardwired to the back of the cigarette lighter. No noise...

Well...I won't say it's impossible, but I kind of doubt it unfortunately. I don't have the slightest idea what the innards of the B9 HU look like, so I really just don't know. I thought the B9 came w/aux-in though?

Well, next time I have to take out the radio, I may try that. It sounds like a good shortcut. I worry a bit about other people trying to use screwdrivers n such and cracking or scratching the plastic though, so I think i'll leave the instructions with the "extra" steps for now... Any other issues with installs? I assume a few more people probably tried it this weekend..? I built several extra boards this weekend to have some "in stock" for future orders...assuming there are any.. I need more boxes though, ironically enough someone else in town seems to be going around buying all the dern boxes! Hehe. Ah well. Anyway, I'm finally all caught up on orders & have plenty more parts if anyone's still thinkin about it. I hope you all had a good weekend...and those of you down south faired the bad weather alright.

I don't know how much easier this is for manuals, but I think it's also *possible* with autos. The thing is, with only the gap revealed by removing the chrome ring, you have terrible leverage to pop up the shifter console from the gap and very little to no room to pop it up from the back. Removing the cubby/console is simply to provide access to the edges so you can pop it up...dunno if there's a better way...probably, but it worked for me & haven't had problems with the white plastic rivets that join it to the shifter console that you did. Once I have the back two screws out, I just gripped the whole thing at the front and yanked up & they popped out...they went back in w/o a problem. I've done this 4 or 5 times now & they seem to be holding up just fine. A N Y way...glad it works well for ya.

Ah crap Project...that's my bad...I should have asked first. I wasn't even thinking about that bitch Rita. If it gets lost (likely on hold until further notice) or you're relocating for awhile and you want me to send another one somewhere else I will, just keep us updated & good luck w/the storm.

Added a more specific warning / recommendation for ground loops & GLI's on the main post. I also wouldn't be suprised if I guessed wrong on R/L, but have yet to see if anyone else can confirm this. After work I can whip out my laptop and check / verify if no one else has by then.. By the way, everyone else's order has shipped so now I have 2 or 3 in stock for future orders (I'll probably make a few more this weekend).

I bet what's happening is that the audio lines for the PDA have a much stronger "pull" than his XM for whatever reason (probably the XM is protected by high impedance because of it's intended use in car-audio and the PDA has very little impedance because it's simply intended to be used with headphones). So, 0 ohms between the two, whenever the pda decides to speak, it sucks all the audio power from the XM and sends whatever audio signal it wants to the headunit. It's a freak combination of impedances...not impossible to reproduce, but with different pda's & xm units, anything could happen.

I think it's a kind of transformer...not much chance of making that yourself. If you want to go on the uber cheap, there's always this: http://www.electronicgiant.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=65_262&products_id=4772 I think metra makes a ground loop isolator you can find on ebay for $2-5 too. You should be ok with just one between the radio & your audio components though. I think if you use two you'll isolate your GPS from your XM and it won't draw the audio lines down to "speak" anymore. ...could be wrong..

Here's an 1/8" jack ground loop isolator from crutchfield. It would save you from using a bunch of additional adapters anyway. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2zHfprbKImd/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=181150&I=127SNI135&search=ground+loop I wish I knew what was different about our setup though & how to properly eliminate the ground loop. My radio didn't have that extra ground wire, but I do have the factory sub...? You could try using different grounding points all day for your power, but ground loops are one of those aggrivating things where you may never figure out the source unfortunately and $10-20 is a fair price to pay for something that will likely come in handy for years to come. I may pick one up for my notebook actually because I know the cigarette charger for that causes noise too.

That sucks. I'm afraid I don't know what else to suggest except to get an audio ground loop isolator like the one Centerpunch pointed out. I guess there's no reason for anyone else to try hardwiring their plugs. I dunno why mine doesn't have any noise then. Wierd. The music from what cuts off, your PDA? That's pretty handy!

I'm not sure if there's really any advantage to working in RCA because it's a mix. Car audio components work mostly with RCA. However, most portable audio stuff and electronics (computers, ipods, mp3, XM) just have an 1/8" stereo jack. Basically, no matter what I use, someone is going to have to use adapters. Plus, someone on here mentioned that RCA's are slightly more vibration resistant than 1/8" jacks. Personally, I don't think it really matters too much, I was just trying to keep everyone happy with whatever was easiest. As far as the grounding screw on the bracket...that sucks. Cutting it off or drilling it out is dangerous with the components inside, so I guess that only leaves cutting the wire and bending the bracket if you can't get it to back out. I guess you just want to be extra firm and make sure you don't strip it to try and break it free. I bet they used loctite to bind it in there though...could be tough. Hrm...actually...there might be an alternative to bending. It would involve more disassembly, but I think you could still be able to remove the main board (radio) instead of the CD changer and gain access from the underside...maybe not...I can't tell from my pictures and I didn't try it.

Even after all the initial interest, I'd be a tad suprised if there was enough people to sell all 100 boards I had made. If I do get close however, I'll just work on the next "gen" board and probably ditch this one. I'll keep routing & stuff in mind for that one though...probably use dual RCA jacks pointing straight towards the back. Anyway, the install is a bit of a PITA the first time (hopefully the last time for most of ya...I doubt it for me ) but I think it's worth it. I'm not too experienced with ground loops & problem solving them, but someone that's experiencing it should try connecting the ground wire of their power adapter directly to the chassis to see if that helps... If that doesn't work, I guess the ground loop isolator is the way to go...I dunno what else to suggest unfortunately. I was also a tad worried about the heat shrink & tried to either tuck it under or cut it away from the stereo jack, but it's pretty thick. Everyone should just double check that the cable is flush against the jack or it's not all the way in & probably needs some more trimming. Still looking forward to more install stories ...

*doh* well...sorry...not much I can do about that now...

I think I might know what the source of your ground loops are... I think what's causing the problem is resistance to ground in the cigarette lighter outlets you're using...I think... I hardwired my XM unit to the wires coming off the back of the cigarette lighter & have no ground loop noise at all. I would recommend hardwiring your adapters, preferably wiring your ground line to the chassis directly, although I used both the ground and hot wires on the cigarette lighter. You could try tying the ground of your audio cable to the chassis via a jumper wire too to see if that helps. Cigarette lighter chargers are notorious for creating ground loops.

Did that post & pictures help at all bemani? Let me know if I can help any more..

Oh yea, I also received parts today, so everyone else's order will ship tomorrow.

I see... well... I'm thinking... ... ... I can't really come up with another way to say it that won't just be more confusing. If it's not clear enough, I think the best thing to do is, when you take out your changer, mark the passenger side of the changer with a marker on the side. It probably wouldn't hurt to mark all the passenger sides of the ribbon cables either just to make sure you've got your bearings straight. The way the board is constructed, when the board is plugged into the ribbon cable & it's straight (the ribbon), the stereo jack on it (aux in port) should point to one side or the other of the car/radio. The side you want it to open to, or point to is the passenger side of the radio & changer. If it's pointing towards the driver's side, you have it in backwards. Does that help or am I only succeeding in futher confusing you? I'd like make sure it's clear and not just with your radio in pieces in front of you. It shouldn't take that to explain it, although I do think it will help. I'll put a couple big pictures here in a sec that should help too...