jazzymt

I'm going to try something new...use the link in the first post to purchase the board:

Just a quick update on the PCB's - they are currently being screened, which is the last step before shipping. ~ and the peasants rejoiced...hurreeh ~ With any luck they'll ship them in the next couple of days & I can start shipping backorders early next week. I'm also not having any luck finding a junkyard VDC radio so I'm going to just sacrifice my own radio for awhile to start mapping the digital I/O. I purchased a reverse wiring harness so I can get it set up on the bench & I should get that some time this week.

Actually, I discussed the possibility of this in post #58 in this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504&page=4 One of the guys that simply soldered inline relays into his radio to interrupt the radio signal and eliminate the silent cd requirement has a walkthru here: (although I will note that I know he wasn't the first to try it, I saw taddison do it about a month or so earlier, but he does have a good walkthru). http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21047 I'd agree also that this is an unacceptable way to treat a factory radio/ACC system that costs upwards of $500 to replace...especially for those of us that are leasing, hence the desire to make a better plug and play solution. I'm sure someone could figure one out quicker than I, but so far, nobody has, so I'll give it a try.

AFAIK, you are correct Rony. I just thought there might be a way cuz some guy approached me and said his buddy is a sound engineer and had a way to make 3 hour silent cd's (and wanted to sell them to me for $5 a piece). If there's a secret, I don't know what it is, but I thought it might be something along those lines.

Uh...It's anybody's guess if it would work. The plugs on the back look like they're in different places too, not just more or less, so I'm decidedly unsure. The front makes it look like it has similar enough internals, but I can't be sure since nobody's tried it. I guess what I'm saying is, you can try it at your own risk. If I were you I'd use the JDM double din bezel & a new head unit.

I've been thinking about ways to improve the silent CD some, but I haven't had a chance to try any of them yet. One idea I had was that I think it might be possible to record mono audio and possibly double the length of the CD. Another was that I should look into possibly using a lower CDA sampling rate...although I don't know if there is such thing and if all CD's are just 48kHz... If anyone knows more about this sorta thing, feel free to try it out for us...I just haven't found the time yet. Also this week I'm going to hunt down another radio so that I can start benchtop testing with the scope & get started on the next edition.

I just checked my PCB vendor progress & it looks like they're currently being drilled, which is good. It means they'll probably be done this week. SOooo...I'm gunna start submitting invoices. I'll post another update when I have a confirmed shipment from my vendor if those on backorder would prefer to wait until then to pay. Otherwise it's the same story as before, if you want to just pay & forget this should be more convenient. Honestly, it makes it easier for me too since I can make sure I have enough other parts to get everyone their board once the PCB's arrive.

Read the first post in this thread and that should help answer most of your questions about what it "is" and what it does. As far as where to get them, I'm selling them, but I'm currently backordered parts for a couple weeks.

Well, I originally ordered 100 boards. I installed 1 in my car, and the rest are all gone so I've shipped 99 (that's almost 5000 holes I personally soldered btw ). I already have about 10 more on backorder too. I can't stop anyone from posting, and so far, I'd say the "consumer response" has been fairly positive. I'm just glad that I've actually been a help, since I was really worried at first that everyone taking their radio apart was going to cause lots of problems. So far, that really hasn't been the case. Thank dog.

I haven't noticed the sound of the CD spinning, but I honestly haven't tried to "hear" it either. Obviously, it's not going to be any louder than when you're actually playing a music CD either...so, I'd have to categorize it as "not noticable." As far as address info, you can PM me your email and the rest of the info I'll get through paypal when you buy the board, but I'm currently backordered, waiting for PCB's from my vendor which could be a couple weeks.

Well, I can answer some of your questions... 2) That switch will work fine if you'd rather use that one. 3) I think what you're looking for is either something like parts 85570RW & 85570BW at HomeDepot.com It looks like you can just unscrew them from their jack insert and use the nut to panel mount them wherever you want. http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/078477962350_4.jpg

Yup, just shove it back in. Make sure the corners are unbent or it will not want to go in & I find it's easiest to edge just one corner in to get it started, but it just slips back into the slot. Make sure it's seated all the way in...you shouldn't be able to see much of the contacts when it's fully seated.

Yup

Yes, I fixed the L/R channels. It cost me significantly extra to fix, & it really makes no difference to me personally which channel is coming out of which side, but I did it...for the consuming public On future boards, they will be correct.

A small update...I've run out of boards Not to worry though. I have more on the way from my fabricator which should be here in a week or so. I'm also shopping around for a spare headunit to start working on the next step in this evolution. I hope you all had a good weekend.

No, I'll manage the dough myself. There's a chance I could still fail and I don't want a bunch of donations riding on that if I do. What I'm really short on is time, but hopefully that will mellow out over the next couple weeks now that my kitchen is finally functional again (spent the last two months ripping it down to studs, built my own cabinets & put it back together...time consuming to say the least). Work has been insanely busy too, but it looks to be mellowing out some as well...I shouldn't say that though, cuz just when you think everything is ok, the chit hits the fan again. Anyway, I'll try my best. Once I get the simple boards reordered (yes, I'll also fix L/R channels) I'm gunna order a VDC radio and tear it to pieces. Whatever I can't find via info sheets on the IC's I'll have to figure out on the scope (fingers crossed).

Lubeman & jsalicru, glad your new installs went well. Sorry for the confusion Lubeman on which side the contacts were facing on the ribbon cable, but it doesn't actually matter. The ribbon only has contacts on one side, but the plugs have contacts on both sides. The only thing you have to make sure of is that one plug lines up with the other plug. A bit of an update for y'all - I'm almost out of my first batch of boards...time flys when you're having fun eh? 4800 soldered holes later... Anyway, interest is still plenty strong, but I'm nowhere near a "next step" solution, so I'm going to order more of these simple boards to keep up with demand. Due to the resounding success of this board, I'm also committing now to make every possible effort to develop a next generation. One that is still 100% plug and play, and takes no silent CD...those are the only certainties so far. I'd like to also include: 1) Adjustable autosensing (1s, 5s, 10s or something like that for nav vs. music) 2) Song name display & control of iPods. I'll have to look into compatibility between the mini, nano & standard generations, but this is still a goal. 3) Serial in/out for mp3, dvd, mpeg4 or whatever control + display for the carputer folk (this is dead last on the priority list, but I'd like to use it myself some day) Ideally, this will all be on a somewhat modular board so that I can get a working aux in first, then add other stuff to it like ipod & carputer compatibility with plug in, or solder on additions without holding up the show for people that just want a simple, clean aux-in and nothing more. Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcome... ?

What do you mean it's no longer functional? It depends on how you disconnected the headunit to use the N2... And if you have an N2, why are you using an FM modulator? Doesn't the N2 have aux inputs? You could hook it up several different ways, but it comes down to which unit do you want driving the speakers? If you don't have aftermarket amps + speakers, I would think you'd want the factory headunit driving them and would use the aux board to input your N2 and the XM into the factory stereo. Otherwise, you could use your N2 as the radio tuner (AM/FM) (right?) and use the aux board to get you a line level out for the factory 6CD changer (all you have to do is hook up power to the factory HU & leave the speakers connected to the N2) and use the N2 as your amp + volume control. Like I said, it all depends on what you're trying to do...

Yea, if you're using XM, it's a good time to wire in hard power if that's what you want. I used the cig lighter because it's only on with the car (how I want XM to work), but you may want it to work differently & depending on how you set up the cig lighter, might want to use something else like the accessory line on the radio. While you've got your trim apart, it's also a good time to run any other audio/power lines you might want hidden underneath the trim. Yea, I probably shouldn't call it a "Blank CD" because that sounds a bit like nothing's on it. It's actually an audio cd with one 75 minute track that's completely silent. So, it displays time & track number just like any audio CD. The one I'm shipping with my boards is actually data+audio CD and also has a PDF of the install instructions on it should you need to reprint them or get a better look at the pictures on your computer.

As far as I know, from everything I've read, the "SAT" light on the radio is not utilized anywhere by anything. Same goes for the 4th position switch...it's there, but we're not sure what it's for.. It looks like on the Japanese headunit, it might be used for their minidisc, but it's hard to know/tell w/o more info & better pictures. It's a mystery for us in the US. As far as the blank CD...yea...it's not perfect, but it's cheap, simple and like you said, it will take care of 99% of our problems while we work on something better. I sent an invoice to your email & I hope it helps you out.

Everything works for me: Co Name: DavidNavOne Address: 4119 Coronado Ave. Suite 4 Stockton, CA 95204-2336 Tel: 1-800-669-6139 Sales email: dnavone@davidnavone.com try their mirror site: www.davidnavone.com

There are two reasons why headphone jacks are not suitable for line level audio: 1) They are post-amplified to drive headphones, adding distortion to the signal. 2) They are lower voltage than line-level outs, requiring the highest possible amplification to get a usable signal, and by then, it's even more distorted because you're at the max out for the headphone amp. Line level outs ideally run as high voltage as practical. There are extremely high quality line level signals for some exotic equipment now operating as high as 18 volts. Obviuosly you have to match the receiving & sending equipment to utilize this, but essentially, headphone & line levels don't really match. They're close enough for "if that's all you've got" use, but not really intended to be used together.

For that matter, why post on this thread about the CleanSweep at all? I mean...it looks like a decent little device, if a tad expensive, but it's kind of random? Anyway, someone else bought the board & sucessfully installed it in a 1CD Legacy w/o problems & it works (didn't know they had a 1CD when I sold it to them). So, it's definitely possible. I'd still throw a bucket full of warnings & disclaimers at anyone with a 1CD radio as they seem much less protected than the 6CD modules & therefore easier to damage. It does, however, work... Thanks again for the other compliments/votes/motions too guys

Something bad mechanical happened & I'm starting to think it's probably unrelated to the board or other electrical connections. I know i've seen something about someone else's cd freaking out & having problems accepting disks... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18389 That still sucks it isn't working right. If you end up taking it to the dealer, or find a junkyard radio, keep us updated. I don't think the board probably caused this, but I still feel somewhat responsible asking you to try & install it.

crap...well, you could always play dumb at the dealer & try to get them to replace it for free. It's always possible your CD player died for an unrelated reason (unlikely, but not impossible). Anyway, I'm sorry dude. This obviously didn't turn out how we planned. Keep us updated & I'd like to help out if I can. (I'm feeling pretty guilty right about now) It sounds like something mechanical is broken or jammed in the CD player though, which is weird.