Sgt.Gator

Very Cool Idea! I may replace the hose with clear tubing, that way you can see the oil flowing and air bubbles, like on the Motiv Products Power Brake Bleeder; and a valve in the line like their Power Filler: http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/powerfill_thumbnail.jpg&maxx=150&maxy=0 http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/1740-POWER-FILL-PRO-15-gallon_p_79.html

I'm Promoted! Now I'll be known as Lt.Gator! Thanks!

See my post, which a MOD should make a Sticky in the Transmission Forum (Hint- Hint Boxkita) : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html?t=229267 Specifically: 3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 4.111FD - '05-'06 USDM Legacy 2.5GT So yes 05- 06, you are good to go. But NO on 07-09 unless you change your R-160 rear diff to match the FD: 3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 3.900FD - '07-'09 USDM Legacy 2.5GT R-160 3.90 Rear Diffs are cheap and available at junk yards. Just make sure you get one with an LSD...see the chart linked above for that too. What are you getting for $1300? Is it rebuilt? Get a pic of the transmission model number and compare it to the chart in my post above to make sure you are getting a 06 5MT from a LGT before you plunk down $$$$. It should look like this, only this is for the 6 speed JDM tranny I purchased:

Thanks Gex! I'll be at the The Ridge next weekend, April 19th, for the 2 Hour - 6 Hour Enduro, but it won't be with the Subaru. My buddy has my old Acura Integra race car that we'll be co-driving for the 2 hour enduro. He and I will be co-driving it at most all the races this year, we're shooting for the NWMECS championship in our class. First race for the Silver Eagle Wagon will be PIR on May 2-3. Hope to see you at both, help is always welcome!

The new turbo ran well, not hardly any lag. But of course on a road track you have to miss a shift to find yourself under 3800 rpm. The swapped in JDM Forester STI 6 speed has a Suretrac front diff, that plus the R-180 with another Suretrac worked very well pulling me oput of the corners, no front wheelspin at all. But boy do I have to shift a lot! And at ORP I never get past 5th gear, and just barely in 5th for a couple of seconds at the end of the main straight. The tranny got a bit warm. Which got me thinking about designing a finned aluminum, larger, oil pan for it. Maybe with a built in fitting for a remote oil cooler.

I'd just got the car back from Cobb Surgeline, so this was for testing the new turbo. Much easier to look under the car for any drips/leaks/problems without the skid plate/splitter installed. Because I was instructing I knew I would only get a couple of sessions in.

More pics by the same pro photographer, Richard Best, who took the off track image above: A couple of good shots of the elevation changes at ORP, note the uphills.. And me in the banking of Half Pipe, probably the signature section of the track: Richard's entire album from ORP last Saturday is here: http://www.sublightphotography.com/acco-track-day/ Thanks for giving me permission!

Like this off track excursion! At ORP last Saturday. I was not instructing this driver!

I think ya'll will appreciate this exchange I had with one of the novice Subaru drivers: Novice: I'm gonna rebuild my engine with all forged internals, cams, 1300cc injectors, a new turbo...I should make 450 Hp! Me: Is this still going to be your daily driver and a track car too? Are you running street pads? Any plans for brake ducts? Any suspension mods? How long since you changed the brake fluid? Are you going to keep running on all season tires? Novice: Street pads. I'm gonna put $6,000 in the engine. The brakes and suspension later. Me: Do you know at Spokane Raceway when I get to the end of the front straight I'm going 158 mph with 309 hp? Novice: 158 mph! Me: If you put 450 HP in your car do you know how fast you will be going at the end of the front straight? Novice: uhhh.... Me: You'll be dead in an hour. Novice: Dead in an hour! Me: Or you'll be lucky enough to survive the boiling brakes and be upset when every 110 HP Miata blows by you like your nothing. We then went on to a long discussion about what's really important in a track car/ race car...I think I changed his mind, at least on the cams. And I may have convinced him that 300 HP is way more than he needs so go with the Mr Tris #ynansb, especially since it will be both a DD and a track car. He couldn't believe I was telling him to go OEM and stay under 300. All the discussions we've had here on LGT.com really helped me for the role of instructor. Thanks to everyone. We might have saved a life!

The Forester was a Novice, she did fine. A LOT of lean though! I'm not sure what kind of tires but I would guess snow tires or all season. You wouldn't want any stickier tires, it might just roll over. At least at this stock height. I saw a video of a JDM Forester STI on a track that looked awesome...found it:

We had a great track day at ORP, lots of Subbies showed up including 2 Rookies. I spent most of the day instructing the Rookie in the yellow WRX: .......... And YES, the Forester XT spent the day out on the track, ski racks and all! The new turbo and Cobb - Surgeline maps ran flawlessly. The EWG took some getting used to...the first lap out it made such a strange racket I thought everything was messed up. But I watched the gauges and all was good, I just have to get used to the sound, and it's loud! I'll pull the AIM data logs tomorrow to get the exact temps, but I never saw anything alarming. I'll post the exact temps later. The only downer.. my student's WRX had 140,000 miles. At the end of the day I upgraded him from Rookie to Novice and he went out for a final run. The car died. It actually started losing power dramaticallly and he limped to the pits, where it would barely run. He had to have AAA tow him home. We don't know what happened yet.

The rear side seal is the same seal used on the R-160. I'm 99% sure you are talking about the side diff seals, not the one that seals at the driveshaft? Unlike the front diff, it's the same seal on both sides of the rear diff. OIL SEAL . This genuine part fits your 2008 Subaru Legacy 25GT-B SEDAN 2.5L TURBO 6MT 4WD . Stock Code 806732200 ; 806732030 Manufacturer:Subaru Categories: Driveline and Differential MSRP $8.40 Subaru Baja 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 Subaru DL/GL/GL10/RS/RX 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Subaru Forester 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Subaru Impreza 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Subaru Legacy 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Subaru Loyale 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993 Subaru Outback 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Subaru STI 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Subaru SVX 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 Subaru WRX 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Subaru XT 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991 Subaru XV Crosstrek 2013, 2014, 2015

Yep! I'm looking forward to our track day this Saturday at ORP!! I don't know exactly what happened yet. Sunday I'll be tearing into the engine a bit. Definitely did NOT lose a hose, or any coolant at all. Here's a couple of other things Cobb-Surgeline did besides the Blouch Turbo: Grimmspeed Up Pipe 44mm EWG w/ Dump Tube Tial 44mm Wastegate Cobb Tuning Adjustable IWG bracket - Short Cobb Tuning Electronic Boost Control Solenoid 1/4" EWG Fitting Upgrade Kit. (I already have the Cobb Elect Boost Control) I am guessing the adjustable IWG bracket is to keep the IWG permanently closed off. Cobb gave me a good break on the cost of the Upipe- EWG because this was supposed to be an all IWG upgrade, but they couldn't get control without it. They stand by their recommendations and if they don't work out right they do their best to fix it. And the Dyno graphs are on a Mustang Dyno....so on a Dynojet the 18 psi graph would be pretty dang close to 389 Hp / 398 Tq. And for easy comparison, here's the Dyno from last year on the Forced Performance 18G:

COBB- Surgeline sent over the new dyno graphs with the Blouch 1.5XTR 10cm. This is the map I'll use for my ST class racing, it has three pulls on it: They pushed harder, up to 18 psi and got this one: They didn't want to push harder then 18 psi given the age of the engine and OEM block. They think it could go higher, but I told them not to push it. I need one car in running condition! I'll pick the car up tomorrow.

It has a Mishimoto radiator. When I started it up to drive up into my trailer it blew a large blue smoke cloud and made awful noises. Now it just needs to run one more time to get into the shop and the tear down will begin. We'll know more when it comes apart. From here out the Spec B drama will be in the build thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/built-spec-b-rebuild-3rd-time-239147.html

To separate the Spec B rebuild from this thread that needs to stay focused on the race car, I've started a new thread in the Build Forum: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/built-spec-b-rebuild-3rd-time-239147.html Please feel free to come over there and offer your advice and thoughts.

The race car is still at Cobb Surgeline. They ran into an issue on the dyno today with high rpm misfires, they say it probably needs new sparkplugs. Hopefully it will be ready to pickup next Wednesday. Then it will be at ORP (Oregon Raceway Park) on Saturday for a track day. Now the bummer... I went to ORP for the Team Continental - ORP instructor training today. The Spec B I bought from Drew a couple of months ago has been running well, so I flushed the brake fluid, put in track pads, topped up the oil and radiator, and headed to ORP. The car lasted 20 minutes on the track. The first clue something was wrong I noticed the water temp at 245....so I slowed down to let it cool off and the slower quieter speed I heard some strange sounds..., bad strange sounds. I made it back the pits.....there I heard the dreaded noise of a spun bearing/rod knock. Maybe it's not a spun bearing/rod knock, but it sounds exactly like all the YouTube videos of Subaru spun bearing failures. Dagnabit! There was no way I could drive it home. A couple of local Bend Porsche guys gave me a ride home. I'll go tomorrow with my trailer and bring the Spec B back. I'm not sure yet what I'll do to fix it. The car came with a spare longblock with forged internals but of dubious condition. I will probably take the longblock apart and have it inspected, then use it as a base for the new engine in the Spec B. Or maybe I'll do a MR Tris OEM #ynansb. Then I'll see what can be salvaged from the spun bearing longblock. Hopefully the fancy ported heads are fine! I'm tempted to convert the Spec B motor to as close to a clone of the race car engine as possible to make it an easy swap when the race engine fails. That would mean converting to an OEM shortblock, STI metal intake, 1000cc injectors, composite TGV deletes, a Blouch 1.5XTR...and a lot more stuff. It would also mean having a lot of parts to sell. Probably not worth it. Lots of possible options... If you are interested in the engine that seems to be toast here's the build sheet: Electronics/Tuning Cobb Tuning AccessPort v2 (AP-SUB-003) Delicious Stg4 Tune 330whp/336wtq performed at Infamous Performance GrimmSpeed EBCS Innovative MTX-L Wideband o2 – This sits in an AVO gauge pod on the dash. Turbo/Induction/Exhaust Tomioka 20G /TD05H – Maybe 60k mi and no shaft play as of when the engine went in. RacerX FMIC Piping w/ Larger Custom Core Tomioka EL Header + Up pipe (DEI Titanium Heat Wrapped) Turbo XS Catted DP (DEI Titanium Heat Wrapped) Perrin, Mid-Ypipe, Prodrive Mufflers – The famous Prodrives. KS-Tech 73mm CAI AEM Dry Flow Filter GoFastBits Respons Recirculating BPV (Black) GrimmSpeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers Perrin Performance Turbo Inlet Hose (Black) Infamous Performance Turbo/AVCS Oil Supply Line v2 Crawford AOS- Air Oil Separator V2 Engine/Fueling Stage 4 – Forged Manley pistons 9.2:1 - Instead of 8.2:1? So there is more torque off boost. ACL Race Bearings ARP Head Studs OEM STI 11mm Oil Pump (shimmed) Gates Racing Timing Kit Cosworth “like” Heads – 2007 STI V25B modified and purchased from BallPeenHamr (a Cosworth employee whose job is to build all Cosworth heads) on NASIOC.com. Much more detail is there from pictures to before/after specs. 5 angle valve job Ported/Polished/Seat/Bowl blend/Ferrea dual valve springs hardened spring seats and locks, titanium retainers, Stock STI cams. OEM valves and seals OEM WRX Water Pump OEM STI Head Gasket Killer B Motorsports Oil Pick Up Killer B Motorsports Windage Tray Killer B Motorsports Oil Pan Fumoto Oil Drain Plug/Valve Brisk Silver Spark Plugs Custom DW 65c fuel pump assembly – With IP&T Pump Housing Bracket Deatschwerks 850cc Fuel Injectors The Spare LongBlock: Manley forged 9.2:1's, ACL Race Bearings, ARP Head Studs, OEM STI 11mm Oil Pump, heads have all new OEM parts except for a 3 angle. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine......

That's a great question. Originally I was going with the 8, but Cobb Surgeline convinced me to go with the 10. They are very familiar with my car and it's purpose, I figured since they have done both sizes on multiple cars they knew a lot more about it than me. They said that I would lose a little low end, but more than make up for it at the high end. My car lives between 4,000 and 6,800 rpm during a race, so having more top side is better than more 3200 rpm power. If it was a street car I can see the 8cm for sure. It may have been a mistake. But If I ever go to higher class I hope I won't need another turbo. At lease not on this engine build, I think I'm close to the max for an OEM shortblock. In a few years I may change this car to a dedicated endurance race car. In that case because of the way cars are grouped I'll need more power than I have now. We'll know more when we see the dyno graphs which I'll post up as soon as they send them to me, possibly by Friday.

Quick Update: The race car is at Cobb/Surgeline in Portland. We ran into a small problem, too MUCH HP! The new ST rules allow me more more power so I'm upgrading to a Blouch 1.5XTR 10cm. However it comes with a 17psi IWG. Well at 17psi I'm already borderline on the allowed power in my class! So now we have to go to an EWG Tial controller to be able to tune at 13-14-15-16-17 psi maps. I need the flexibility in maps to balance my HP to Weight ratios. It should be ready next week then I'll swap the former Drew888 Spec B with them for a tune on it. First track day for the Spec B will be this Saturday at Oregon Raceway Park. Next track day for the race car will be Saturday April 4th at Oregon Raceway Park with the Autocross Club of Central Oregon track day. It will be interesting to see how it runs with the new turbo there. PacNW folks, you won't find a cheaper track day than ORP April 4th!! ORP- $130!!!! Autocross Club of Central Oregon Saturday, April 4, 2015 Oregon Raceway Park, Grass Valley, OR Registration ends on April 3, 2015 11:59 PM PDT Registration Fees: Registration - $130 Lunch - $10 4 run groups – Rookies with Instructors. Novice, Intermediate and Advanced. 20 minute sessions per group Up to 2 hours of seat time Pre-Registration is required 80 entry cap. Rain or Shine! April 4, 2015 Gates open - 7:00 am Drivers Meeting - 8:00 pm Groups Run 8:30 pm – 5:30 pm End of Day 6:00 pm- This is not a race; this event is a driver instruction day for drivers to stretch their legs on a race track. http://www.motorsportreg.com/events/acco-track-day-a4-oregon-raceway-park-autocross-club-of-central-257689

Beautiful day at Oregon Raceway Park yesterday! My first chance to test: 1: Heat extractor hood 2: 6 spd swap 3: Front Splitter 4: Rear Wing 1) You can see the red knitting tufts I used. The results were excellent. Airflow is definitely coming out the front extractor and 2/3 of the front of the rear/side extractors. The very last vent section on the side extractors weren't doing anything useful, they are too close the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. Notice the tufts right on the base of the windshield.....at speed the center ones were actually pointing to the front of the car. It was weird to "see" the air actually blowing in reverse, towards the front of the car! I've known this for years, since Chevy introduced the Z28 and 454 cowl induction hood intakes in 1970, but knowing and seeing are two different things. In the pic was the test prior to bolting up the splitter. After I put the splitter on it made it work even better. Coolant temps never went over 185. 2) The 6 speed swap initially caused a problem with my AIM dash. I could barley get going before RPM channel alarms went wild. I finally figured out that when I changed the AIM configuration to account for the 6spd I inadvertently changed the rpm sensor function to read incorrectly. Changing it to read the raw data/2 fixed that issue. The 6 speed worked great except for a slight leak which probably means new axle seals are needed (I haven't put it on a lift yet to see the exact problem). More troublesome is the Trans Temp alarm that came up 15 mins into my last session. When we installed the 6 speed we didn't hook up the tranny cooler, but I guess I'll need to do that now. I'm also going to wrap the downpipe-exhaust pipe from the turbo to past the tranny. The splitter reduces airflow under the car which adds to the problem. At ORP there is no place to get into 6th, so the real high speed test will have to wait for another track. The front LSD was very nice! 3) The front splitter made a big difference, even at the slower ORP speeds. The front really has a lot more traction now. Between the front LSD and the splitter I can crank on the power coming out of the apexes. It was also easier to install/uninstall at the track than I expected. I can't trailer the car with it on, so that will be a routine thing each weekend. I should be able to get it down to under 5 minutes... 4) It was hard to tell if the rear wing was effective at ORP, the speeds are too slow. I'll have to do more testing with it on and off at the slower tracks to see if it's worthwhile on them. We are having a HPDE day at ORP for $130 on April 4th. Newbies/Novices/Experts are welcome to join us! We'll have instructors for first timers: http://www.motorsportreg.com/events/acco-track-day-a4-oregon-raceway-park-autocross-club-of-central-257689#.VP3mZVXF8zd

I think Subaru Marketing needs you! They could do like Chevrolet Corvette does and just make it a "Limited Edition" vinyl stripes package with the TT Isle of Man Production Car Lap Record text, and charge $3K more for it. Like the 2009 GT1 "Limited Edition" Corvette Racing: .. Personally I think this record is way more meangingful than any of the Nurburgring ones. These are real public roads with all their bad tarmac and changes in traction, jumps. I have a new bucket list item to go with attending the 24 Hours of Le Mans, I have to watch this in person!

Subaru WRX STI Isle of Man: Flat Out - The Full Lap Great video. I love it because the narration is excellent! 162 mph is insane on these roads...at the end my heart rate was right up there with his. http://youtu.be/t7gmbQ8KxM4 And the lead in to prep you: http://bit.ly/1jMk5Sf

Sorry, too late. But you can figure 30 minutes of time with a Dremel cut off wheel + Dremel sanding drum. As soon as they try to put the Moroso thru the hole they will see what needs to be done. Or just use a new STI pickup.

Thanks! I replaced my dented oil pan from the off road excursion with a new STI pan. Since I was dropping the pan I installed a Cosworth crank scraper - baffle and a Moroso oil pickup. I bought a few Cosworth scraper-baffles from the Subaru Rally Team, Vermont Sports Car, used. I also discovered that the spare engine I obtained from Drew has a Killer B oil pickup. I was using that engine to mock up the Cosworth scraper and the Moroso pickup, so it gave me a chance to compare the Killer B, Moroso, and OEM oil pickups side by side. 1) The OEM pickup showed no signs of fatigue, cracks, or corroding welds/brazes. It probably didn't need to be replaced. 2) The Moroso pickup is very substantial and high quality zinc plated. Moroso has been making automotive oil stuff a very long time and it shows. 3) The Killer B is also a high quality unit. Where the Moroso has a conventional flat pickup the Killer B has one surrounded by a structure. I'm not sure it has any performance advantage over the conventional flat bottom or not. 4) To use the Cosworth crank scraper with the OEM pickup is plug and play, with the Moroso you have to grind one of the holes larger, with the Killer B you'd have to grind two holes larger. 5) After comparing the Moroso to the Killer B I'd have a hard time justifying the higher price of the Killer B; the Moroso should do the job fine and be much stronger than the OEM. And as long as I had the engine jacked up I might as well replace the motor mounts! So in went a pair of Perrin mounts. They are VERY nice. Next up: finishing the fuel cell revamp and installing a new turbo this week.

NM+ are you running R tires or street tires? My guess is that the R rated vs street tires has a lot more to do with bearing stress than the weight of the wheel, but I'm certainly no suspension fatigue engineer. IMHO: R rated tires + Competition Camber Settings + No Brake Ducts all combine to cook wheel bearings at a rapid rate.