mccorry

I just turned 220k in my 05 LGT today. I rebuilt the motor at 185K. Still running the stock turbocharger. I have rust on both sides in front of the rear wheels... behind the plastic skirts and creeping up the front of the wheel wells.

Eek...!

I could weld replacements in if I could find patch panels.... nobody makes them and these cars all rot there.

http://www.youshouldliketypetoo.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/new-orleans-house-numbers-31.jpg

I'm in the same boat... both sides...

Can I ask how they were repaired? I've been trying to find patch panels or someone who will sell me the section cut from a rust free car.

Yep... pull off your plastic lower section and you'll find that it's pretty rusted underneath there....

212k miles now on my 05 LGT. 35K on the motor rebuild. Stock turbo still... everything else is original less the normal wear/tear. I think I might have the front struts going out, finally... getting some clunking at low speed over bumps. The transmission is a little whiny, but still going. Rust on both rear quarters... just behind the door.. been trying to stay on top of it.

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Downloads/MFJ-2289/MFJ-2289_Block_front_3031.jpg

http://florvariosmoda.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/2274_-900x900.jpg

Just passed 200K miles today with my '05 LGT. I'm the original owner. She's on her 3rd clutch and has one engine rebuild (failed head gasket at 184k miles. She still runs like a banshee!

rmoore!

Just passed 2K miles on the rebuilt engine. Everything is going well. Back to target boost levels (~18 psi). The car pulls very hard. Just continuing to build confidence.

185K. Motor rebuilt 2K miles ago (head gasket failure and #5 main bearing wear). Everything else is original except clutch.

Just crossed 1000 miles on the newly rebuild engine. Everything still going alright. Gained about 10 psi when I engaged AVCS (was running an economy map during break in). Oil pressure sits around 70 psig at 3K RPM. Idle is around 18-20 psig. I've just recently been pushing it a little harder and have noticed that it's not hitting target boost levels. Only hitting 14-15 psig on a Stg. 2 map. No noises or anything. Not a huge deal right now. I had about $1100 in parts (gaskets, rings, bearings, etc.) and $450 in machine shop work. Took me under a month with a few breaks in there (one week vacation). I'd say you could do the job in 2-3 weeks.

Just passed 100 miles on the motor. Everything looks good still. Oil pressure sits right around 50-60 while cruising around 2500-3000 RPM. Still running low boost levels (<5 psi) and lower RPM (<4000). I do have an issue with the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield smoking slightly when I shut the car off. I can't find any oil leaks on the valve cover, back of the head, timing belt, etc.... I was thinking that the heat shield just has excess oil in it from me spilling oil on it while it was on the floor. I'd think it would burn off by now. If it doesn't stop in the next day or so, I'll pull the heat shield and try and figure out what's smoking.

Yes, you're right. If I was going to yank the pump out, I was thinking I'd go with a slightly larger unit in case there truly was some extra clearance that I missed...

You're right. It's more of me being paranoid, I guess. The car used to always hit 20 psi @ hot idle and ~ 80 psig @ 3k RPM hot. After the rebuild with new bearings and all the clearances within factory specs, I was expecting to hit closer to the same pressures. It really freaked me out when I saw 30 psi lower pressure.

OK... Went for a longer drive today. Cold fast idle oil pressure was ~85 psi. As engine warmed up while driving, oil pressure dropped to ~ 16-18 psi at idle (~600 rpm). Cruising at ~ 3000 rpm at operating temp. after 15 minutes of driving only yielded 50 psi. Oil is Valvoline 5w30 conventional. Am I looking at a bad or faulty oil pump? Should I buy a new 11 millimeter unit? I appreciate the input, Hammer Down. However, I'm kind of freaking out as I checked all the clearances. I did reuse the original pump and pickup. ���������� �� I really expected higher oil pressures. I'm afraid something is wrong.

Any input? All bearing clearances were checked and we're in STD ranges. Is this an oil pump issue? Pick up tube issue?

Didn't get to drive the car yesterday, so I took it for a spin tonight. Everything went really well, except the oil pressure went a little lower than I expected when the engine was warm. When I started it up Sunday night, it dropped to 20 psi warm at idle after 15 minutes. After 15 mile drive tonight running the engine up and down under low boost, oil pressure dropped off to 60-70 psi at 2000-3500 rpm. Idle oil pressure (warm) is around 18 psi. I was expecting 20 PS idle and ~80 psi crusing. No noises or leaks from the engine and the dipstick shows clean clear oil at Full. I'm breaking in with Valvoline Dino 5W30. Thoughts? Should I be concerned?

Just got home from vacation last night. Today, I got the intake, turbo, and clutch on... Then put the engine in, primed it, and fired it up. Long day, but she's hitting on all cylinders. I let it heat up to operating temp and shut it off. Tomorrow I plan to go for a 15-20 minute drive on low boost (<10 psi). That should start seating the rings. Going to do a higher boost drive Tuesday.

Fel-pro.... No rtv.

Leakdown tests were all over the place. 7% on cylinder 1, 16% on 2 & 3 and 21% on cylinder 4. Talked to the owner of a local Subaru engine shop about it and he told me he would go with it. Since the motors never been fired, the rings will leak due to not being seated. Since the valves were out and cleaned/lapped, they will leak until they snap closed a few times. Because of these facts, he said that you can't really trust a leak down test. Since the valves hold brake fluid, he recommended to put the engine in, prime the oil system, and fire it up. He said the rings and valves will seat up as the motor runs. Travelling this week, but wishish me luck when I get back!!

I hope so.... The leak down test will make me feel a lot better....