IwannaSportSedan

ONLY FILL FROM THE TOP SEALED RESERVIOR WHEN THE SEAL IS COMPROMIZED. If the front expansion bottle is completely dry, or if you are changing out the coolant entirely, or the car has overheated. Not normal circumstances. You don't want to fill there otherwise, as you could introduce air into the system, which would mean you would have to bleed it again. ***Normal periodic checking and topping-up should be done from the clear expansion bottle, with the high-low marks. Fill to the appropriate mark when the engine is hot or cold. Don't open the radiator or reservior pressure caps when the car is hot. don't even touch them, as they are extremely hot. probably in excess of 200 degrees F. Use either pre-diluted coolant (water and antifreeze 50%/50% pre-mix) or use undiluted antifreeze (brands and restrictions listed in this thread...) and distilled water. Not just filtered, but distilled, to keep all the minerals from the water out of your cooling system. You can add fractions of distilled water to your 50% pre-mix, to further dilute the mix. warmer climates don't necessarily need the sub-zero degree freeze protection, and can bias the mix more toward water, maybe as much as 60-65% water. Water conducts heat better than glycol and other chemicals, so a mix with more water will be more efficient at cooling the engine. Antifreeze itself doesn't conduct as much heat, but does keep the water in a liquid state far below it's normal freezing point. Chemistry 101: water's solid state is actually less dense than it's liquid state, counter to most other materials. That is why ice floats in your drinking water. Less density also equates to an increase in spatial volume. When water freezes, it expands right where it is. In a sealed system, there is no extra volume to account for that expansion. If ice happens to be forming in the cooling galleys in your engine, it will crack the metal castings, it will split hoses, it will destroy water pumps, and radiators, and all manner of other things as it expands in place. THAT is why anti-freeze is important. Moral of the story: Check your antifreeze concentration. Most autoparts stores and automotive departments will sell a small suction bulb test tube to take a sample of the coolant in your car. It works by using some plastic beads of varying densities, or other density measurement system, which will float or sink in antifreeze, depending on concentration. Reading which ball floats, and which one sinks, or if it has neutral buoyancy will tell you what the low temperature threshold is for your coolant. Make sure that temperature is as low or lower than the coldest temperature your region sees in the winter. If it isn't low enough, add a fraction more un-diluted antifreeze. (or twice as much 50% antifreeze). If the temperature reading on your coolant is much colder than your region's lowest yearly temperature, you can replace some of the coolant with distilled water, to up your cooling system's thermal transfer efficiency, and sacrifice the unused antifreeze potential that you don't need. most antifreeze in 40-50% concentration should protect at least to -20 degrees F, quite possibly even lower.

The overflow tank works on a constant siphon. There is also a high-mounted reserviour, near the intake manifold, at the highest point of the sealed system. that is where to fill and bleed the system, not at the radiator, which is lower in the system. The overflow tank siphon goes from the top of the radiator, or the top reservior, down to the bottom of the bottle. As long as there is liquid in the tank and siphon tubes, there is a seal for the system. bubbles can be forced out of the sealed system into the expansion tank, but can't go the other direction, into the system. Liquid coolant replaces the volume of the expelled air/gas. That is usually what happens that causes the expansion bottle's fluid level to get lower. Also, as the system gets hot, and the liquid coolant expands, it pushes a little excess coolant into the expansion bottle, raising the observable level. (why there is a cold and hot indicator on the bottle.) The expansion bottle can't be sealed, because air needs to be pushed out, or drawn in as that fluid level fluctuates. The siphon fluid level in the bottle keeps that air from getting into the sealed cooling system. However, if your expansion bottle ever runs completely dry, it will allow air into the system, and could allow the coolant in the sealed part of the system to expand enough under lack of pressure, to boil and overheat. If your coolant bottle is empty, don't drive enough to heat up your engine until you have a chance to re-fill, bleed, and re-seal the cooling system. If the coolant listed above aren't available, and the system isn't completely dry, you can temporarily use distilled water. (that will dilute the coolant, and make it more vulnerable to sub-freezing temperatures, and you'd have to go back and re-add the anti-freeze components.)

Does anyone know of any issues with using watter wetter, or competing products? I doubt there would be, but I am just wondering if WaterWetter has any phosphates or silicates in it, that would go against subaru specs. I've used WaterWetter in my other vehicles, to some success. Not a night-day difference, but slightly cooler and more consistent temperatures, due to less hotspot-boiling in the system, at least that is what the marketing claims. I'd like to put a bottle in the Legacy, but I would really NOT like to regret it later. And thanks for the heads up on Peak and Final Charge Global coolants... Local wally-world has Peak Global, which is much easier than trying to get to the Subie dealer when the parts counter is open. (read: hardly ever beyond my work hours, and 50 miles away.)

Thanks very much for the complement.

Wider spread on high beams could be good. taller maybe not necessary, but brighter in the upper regions of the pattern isn't all bad for high-overhead signs. I do a fair amount of rural night driving on the highway, both two and four lane. Wide pattern is good to see obstacles and deer in the distance, especially in the ditches, and the shoulders. An appropriate vertical height to the high beams is good, to, for going down hills, where the headlights light the valley very well, but not necessarily the rise on the other side. and also giving lead time to read overhead signs on interstates and overpasses. No doubt driving lights would be a welcome addition. Again, even more lumens, and even more specific focus. I wish one could add nice driving lights to an agressive car like the Legacy, without looking like pie plates stuck to the front, and limiting airflow to the radiator. I wish more cars were designed like 80's/90s porsches, with both fog and driving lights integrated nicely into the design, not as an add-on. Too bad that would also break most US state laws that say no more than four forward facing headlight beams. lows and fogs, ok. Highs and Lows, ok. Highs, lows, and driving beams, not... unfortunately. What are you going to give up? close range definition, moderate to long range wide angle view, or very long range detection? they always give up the last one, by not having driving lights from the factory. I can't say I'd do differently under mandate, like manufacturers are. My biggest issue, is on four lane interstates, is getting long range enough to the shoulders (legacy is better than all my previous cars at this, but is still strictly cut off, of course) and far enough down range, when there are very few cars ahead of me in my traffic lane, but still enough oncoming traffic on the other side of the median to not really want to blind them with the high beams. I can't see very far down my dark lane of traffic, but I can't blind oncoming traffic (because if they did it to me, I'd see even worse...) This is why I like HIDS in properly cut off and focused fixtures, HIRs (what downside for more light?), driving lights, fog lights on appropriate occaisions, and more lumens all around. I like LEDs, too, for their instant flash indicator aspects, and stark on or off behavior, which tends to grab attention. But I am to technical for my own good, anyway. The wife says so, and she's always right

First off, congrats. I know exactly how you feel about seeing GRP shine in the sun for the first time. pictures don't capture it. Not liking the chrome strip on the rocker panels? I always thought that the rocker trims were replacement pieces. standard ones without chrome insert, optional ones with chrome insert. I've been debating going over to those, (mine has the plain GRP sills) with some hyper-silver wheels, (Ace Arius, or ICW Racing Omega mesh-style, like but cheaper than BBS RG-R) rather than the dark ones I have, or painting the ones I have to a hyper-silver look. Make sure that the tint you get is done well. mine was done previously, was not filed at the edges (slight un-tinted stripe around the edges of the roll-down glass. rear quarters and rear window are great, though) and the driver's window is starting to curl at the edge, and was previously slightly torn. I'll get it taken care of soon. Subastyle grille, if he is still doing them is a very welcome addition. wings and oval removed and filled, mesh installed at the back, and subie oval or other badges can be re-added. Blacked out headlights a big plus, too. I don't have the STI guage cluster, but a CasapoliS guage pod in the cubby with ProSport guages. AFR guage needs to be connected to the O2 sensor yet, otherwise, works great, and matches well. I have been wanting to rebadge and do something with the tail lights. I am not sure if tinting them is what I want to do, or if I want to try and "red-out" the chrome edge with translucent red paint and an airbrush... Let me know what you find out about a radiator coating that can black that out. I'd be interested. Need to get in there and replace the horns, first, though. stock horns are worthless, weak, and inaudible at highway speed. And yes, you are right.... this car is FAN-TASTIC!

That seems like a rational approach. and probably a really good choice. But keep in mind, there is more light and less light... not really "mid-range" light. and light doesn't cost quite as much to upgrade as power, and light is useable when power is not... And luckily, like traction (with good tires), Light (with good bulbs) is one thing Legacy has going for it, in spades. Four really good light fixtures are SOO nice, compared to all my previous cars having just two fixtures of varying quality. I love the projectors being able to focus all of their available light on the strict low beam pattern, rather than compromizing half of the reflector or lens focus to high beams... and vice versa for the high beams not having to compromize reflector space for the low beam pattern. Plus, that just means that high output light sources like HIR, and HID (especially with a HID reflector and cutoff retrofit) can do their best in their own dedicated fixture, and not waste as much of that extra output. It's like playing really good music through really good speakers. neither gets wasted.

Why not? Lumens are lumens. more lumens down range is good, especially on high beam, because that throw is further, and more lumens will either throw further yet, or fill the existing pattern with brighter light, or maybe a bit of both. 800 more lumens for the HIR is almost a 50% increase. not inconsequential... and the Legacy's reflectors can put those lumens to use. I'd probably do that mod eventually, and pair the HIR high beams with ~4300k HID lows. And yellow fogs for the clarity on a short-throw pattern. Lumens are GOOD, Lumens are GOOOOD.

I want to do this mod soon after I pick up my car... maybe over the winter sometime. I have a question, though... could something like this be done? I would like to possibly buy the 2007 center armrest cubby interior piece, with the aux female jack next to the power point. (I'll likely use an ipod powered dock solution, with a line output, like belkin's or similar, with a short male-male jack cable from the ipod adapter to the cubby aux jack) I don't know what sort of cable is behind that aux jack, or how it plugs into the 07 stereo module... but I thought maybe someone with access could find out... And then an intermiediate cable could be fabricated to patch between the center console jack, or it's cable connector, and the jazzy board. Better yet, a molex-style locking-tab connector on the input side of the jazzy board, to avoid the loose headphone jack issue, to an intermediate connector on or behind the back of the head unit, that either accepts a cable from the console plug, or an adapter cable that converts into headphone female jack to be located wherever...

No wonder why 4 of the 5 colors on the 07 Legacy are somewhere in the grayscale between white and black. And no wonder why I am dissappointed with the choice. Some cars have panaché enough to really look dramatic in silver. they can rely on their design purity to generate the jaw-drop effect. Ferraris, Porsches, TVRs... Legacy looks good in silver, don't get me wrong... but how dynamic can a 4-door sedan or 5-door wagon be, within the parameters of a sedan or wagon. It isn't weird looking like new BMWs, and that is a count on the positive. Silver really makes most cars blend into the concrete they drive on. But to make a four door, wagon, SUV, van, crossover, non-lithe-sportscar design stand out, color is better. When was the last time you said, HOLY SMOKES that is a hot silver or grey four door? (ok, maybe CreoSTI's Spec B with JDM bodywork...) but isn't it much more dramatic to have a brightly colored car? Blue, Red, Copper Orange, or even a dramatic green. (yellow on a mid-size or larger four-door... blech. coupe or convertible is less problematic.) Good for SOA for offering blue. Barely, and without the sportier black interior. Bah! If SOA painted Legacys in the new darkish 07 JDM blue, WRB, or WRX's San Remo Red, or Blitzen-spec solid red, or even dark green, as is available in Europe, with the black interior (inherently sportier looking than taupe-lux-wannabe interior, except dark green/taupe being the logical combo...) I would have so much less trouble buying a new Subaru.

A copper orange LGT would be a new one... lowered on nice 18"s, could be a sight to see.

The 05 LGT got a nice steering wheel with MOMO on the airbag cover. The 06 LGT Automatic, and Spec B got the same wheel. MOMO was moved from the airbag to the bottom spoke, where it is embossed in the leather. The 05 Manual LGT sedan got a smaller, thicker wheel, still leather, but only single seamed, and not perforated. It is the same wheel that the WRX STi has, without the red stitching, and with the subaru oval on the airbag, instead of the STI logo. I believe it is still MOMO, but not badged. After sitting in an 06 WRX STI, Spec B, and 06 GT 5MT, I did notice the differences in the steering wheels... I haven't followed the 2.5i models as closely, but they probably get a lower trim level wheel, as someone mentioned, with vinyl, rather than leather on the non-limited version. Seats are different between models, also.

Not bad... Quite shiny! I'd bet these look even better on Black or Garnet Red... with a bit more hue contrast... LibertyGTWagon... Those ROH wheels have always kind of intrigued me. I think they will look great on a legacy, even if they aren't my first choice. I like ROH's Modena and split-spoke version of the Modena (I forget the name at the moment...) With an 18" wheel, you are going to be adding at least a half inch of height, and that is if the tire sidewall stays the same. a shorter sidewall than stock will cut back a little on that half inch, a taller sidewall will add to it. It will be up to you if you want to lower the car afterward, but not everybody does. The USDM Spec B has 18"s, and I doubt it is lowered, so it is definitely possible to remain at stock ride-height.

Other countries also have different tax structures, which tax cars on their displacement, rather than sticker price, or horsepower, or fuel mileage. Plus WRC mandates a 2 liter cap. Therefore the home-market WRX STi has that. Therefore the WRX has a lesser tune on that same engine, and the JDM/ROW Legacy, Aussie Liberty, etc. have it. Just a matter of supply sharing. Same reason for all the 2.5 Turbos going to the US. WRX STi, Forester, Baja Turbo, Legacy GT, and now the 06 US-market WRX, as well. Single engine, multiple tune, less expensive supply issues. I have a feeling that if WRC raised it's displacement cap, FHI might actually go to a 2.5 Twin Scroll in their home market (Japan) once homologation would allow it. They would be able to get more power by adding the 2.0 Twin Scroll's tuning tricks, and an appropriately sized twin-scroll turbo to the 2.5 liter motor. they might be able to kick mitsu Evo's hp ratings that way. Maybe then it would apply to the US, as well. Although I have heard that Twin Scroll turbos affect the emissions enough to be slight issue in the US, which may be why they are rare here. I don't know the engines that well, but I am wondering what the differences between the EJ20 and EJ25 designs really are. Perhaps it is just a relatively small increase to bore and stroke, and both designs are nearly equally understressed and stout, simply differing in displacement.

If we can't help Scooterman here, then we're dropping the ball. Although Roundboy is right, and Subie's website is probably going to be the best source for hard facts. North America, including Canada, gets cars built in the US. Most other markets are supplied from Japan, including Asia and Europe. I beleive Japan, Austrailia, Asian, Middle Eastern, and European markets are all similar, with option and powertrain differences. Some places get only the 2.0i, others also get the 3.0R H6 powered cars. Japan, some parts of Asia, and Australia are the only markets to get the 2.0 GT Turbo. The US and Canada are the only markets to get the 2.5 GT Turbo. In the US, we get the 250bhp 2.5 Turbo (normal turbo, not twin-scroll like the 2.0, which is why the similar power and performance specs.) We don't get any Spec B options yet, like bilstein suspension or 18" wheels. A limited run of about 400 is coming in 2006. Last year (2005 Model Year, now closing) we in the US had the option of a GT and GT Limited. The 2.5i also had those packages. GT had cloth seat upholstery, and no moonroof. GT Limited had Leather, and the moonroof. Black or Taupe (light tan) in either material, paired with any of the Legacy's paint colors. Manual standard, or Automatic optional on all models, otherwise a few meager accessories, like all-weather floormats. (but not mudflaps at first, ironically.) We also do not get the nicer McIntosh stereo. the standard 6-in dash changer with no chance of replacement, and no auxiliary inputs. The North American cars also have larger bumper overhangs, with different bumper beam structures underneath, for US crash and insurance standards, but is the most obvious outward difference between the North American cars and the Rest-of-World market cars (ROW) from Japan. For the 2006 Model year, there are a few changes, such as limiting the GT to the previous "Limited" specification with only the Leather interior, and moonroof standard. interior color choices are much more limited, and determined according to paint color, without the option to choose the other interior color for a specific paint color. The Legacy GT wagon looses it's option for a manual transmission (but 2.5 Turbo Outback XT keeps it's manual transmission, with the taupe interior for ALL models, regardless of paint color.) Navigation, which has been an option in other markets, is debuting in the US. It has been asserted that the source of the US maps are different from ROW Navigation systems, and possibly using inferior data. The NAV system also seems left out of the Wagon bodystyle altogether, and only available on the Sedan with an Automatic transmission. I have no idea why. I mentioned the US getting a short run of 2.5 GT Spec Bs. About 400 sedans, painted Titanium Silver, with red leather seats, 5-speed Manual transmission, Navigation, 18" Spec B wheels (same as Japan's 2.0 GT Spec B wheels) and bilstein suspension, and the same stereo, but improved to play CDs encoded with MP3 files. Otherwise similar to the GT. So far pricing has not been announced. Pricing hasn't been released for the GT for 2006 yet, that I have seen, although dealers are rumored to start receiving 06 Legacies later this month. 2005 GTs started at about 26,245, and Limited specification adds $2,500, to about $28,745. Some legacy GT Limiteds, with added accessories, sticker at about $30,100. However, with incentives, usually it is a couple thousand less than that. My latest currency conversion puts $30k USD at AUD$40,043

It is gonna be hi-larious if My Honda Hawk GT, My wife's 99 Miata, AND my future Legacy GT all get the same oil and filter. Mobil 1 synth oil and either a purolator or Wix filter. I'll start buying in bulk. That is, until I get a stainless steel mesh permanent, re-useable filter, and a reasonably local source for redline synthetic oil. Then the Miata will get an oil filter relocation and thermostat-controlled cooler kit, and one of those quarter-turn valve. When I get the Legacy, it'll eventually get the same re-useable filter, valve, and redline synthetic oil. I have to agree with those who say that the OE filter is likely quite fine, but isn't the end-all, be-all. There are plenty of examples of subaru cost cutting. I know that companies will try to skirt warranties on things like aftermarket oil filters, or any other thread they can pull. But, honestly; how likely is a proper, quality oil filter, from any vendor going to cause a problem? The tire analogy is apt. Using an aftermarket oil filter is a lot like using alternate replacement tires. As long as you use quality parts, selected to fit and operate correctly, it is at least as good as OE, and possibly BETTER. Whoever said that car companies make bottom line decisions is right on, not necessarily absolutely the best parts, regardless of price. Ferrari, maybe; Subaru, probably not. It is probably six of one, half a dozen of the other on the oil filters, and I'd rather support my local autoparts store, to help them stay in business, with parts for my car, rather than a car dealer that can charge ~100% more for the same parts, and probably doesn't live-or-die on parts sales.

Recently, people have been voicing confusion about forum references to color codes, and 3-letter abreviated color names. So, I put together a small table for reference. Axis008 Posted a 2006MY product matrix in another thread (view post here.) Using that matrix, I have assembled the following table, but noticed that Subaru has 3 letter designations for the colors, too, and they are not simply the first letters of the name. So, I have included the common LegacyGT.com abbreviations that we typically use (non-official), as well as the official SOA (Subaru of America) abbreviations, AND the color codes, which are used to identify the color on the build tag, and are used to order color-matched painted parts. NOTE: the board doesn't seem to maintain spacing, and adding "-" doesn't seem very consistent, but hopefully it is legible. Color-----------------------LGT.com ------- SOA abbrev.------Numeric Code Obsidian Black Pearl ---- OBP ------------- BLK -------------- 2J Satin White Pearl --------- SWP ----------- WHI ------------- 7J Brilliant Silver Metallic -- BSM ------------ SIL -------------- 9D Titanium Silver Metallic - TSM ------------ SXV -------------- 8E Garnet Red Pearl --------- GRP ------------ RED ------------- 3J Regal Blue Pearl --------- RBP ------------- BDR ------------- 5J Atlantic Blue Pearl ------- ABP ------------- BLU ------------- 3A --Additional Outback-specific Colors and Combinations Champagne Gold Opal --- CGO ------------ GLD ------------ 9J Willow Green Opal/ Moss Green Metallic ----- WGO? ----------- GRM ----------- U5 Brilliant Silver Metallic/ Granite Gray Opal -------- GGO? ---------- SLV ------------- K3 --Other Subie Colors (not on Leg/OB matrix) World Rally Blue ----------- WRB ------------ ??? ------------ ?? San Remo Red ------------- SRR Sedona Red Pearl (old) ---- SRP Java Black Metallic -------- JBM Solid Red ------------------- SR -feel free to add to the table... Hope this helps.

5x100. The BBS split 5 spokes look cool. I would be interested to see them on the Legacy. Kinda like BMW split-spoke M-sport rims. Those British Pewter / Bright Flitter Prodrive PFF-7s (are those the same, or different colors? Anthracite is the noticeably darker one...) are schmokin'. Plus they are 18x8, which my other favs, BBS RGR, are a half inch narrower.

Offset is the dimension of the wheel that says how far from the wheel's centerline between the inside of the rim and the outside of the rim, the mating surface is. It establishes the mating surface, where the hub of the wheel meets the hub of the brake disk. It determines how far in or out the wheel sits from the suspension. Wheel offset varies with wheel width (not with diameter) so that is why different wheels have different offsets for the same fitment. Check the Wheel FAQ thread. XenonK has lots of information there.

That is a lot of subies on one street. I have been intrigued by ROH wheels since a member here (GTLIB1) showed pics of his silver Liberty/Legacy with ROH Modenas. (his thread is here: GTLIB1's Pic Thread) I noticed that a set of very slightly curb-rashed ROH Adrenaline (gunmetal or "shadow chrome") wheels on ebay, in 18x8 5x100 bolt-pattern, and listed to fit a WRX (and thus an LGT, I would certainly think.) ebay auction, with pics I think someday I might upgrade the miata to a set of those in 17x7. Also, the new ROH Mantis might be a good looking wheel for those who like the look of the Nissan Altima SE-R's wheels. Link to ROH's online catalog The wheel is shown, but I couldn't get the info page to come up. Perhaps GTLIB1 could get the specs for us (they are manufactured very near where he lives.)

I saw some bulbs the other day, marketed as Sylvania Silverstar Indicator lights, which have an irridium clear coat on the bulbs (clear with a rainbow effect) and light up amber. I want to try them on my Miata and Ranger, which both have clear lense turn signals (aftermarket on the Ranger, looks stock and fluted, just not amber lenses) and see how they work. I think they would look awesome on a clear-lensed Legacy. I also think that it would be cool to get some of that stick-on lense tinting film, about 50% light transmision, and cover the upper and lower parts of the indicator, above and below the fluted horizontal diffuser (which would stay clear), outboard of the "bulge" over the low beam projector. I think it would mute down the chrome reflector, and accentuate the horizontal diffuser even more.

Interesting stuff. I wish they had a chrome/satin metal trim kit for the side window line, either just from the side mirror to the base of the C pillar, or around the whole side window area, kinda like the A4 3.0 Too bad the fog light pockets are no longer available in unpainted black. I saw a silver 2.5i Ltd at the dealer a while ago, and it looked good with the black foglight pockets, it made the front end look lighter and more open. I guess painted obsidian black is the other option, or use the pocket trim peice as a "buck" to fab up some black mesh versions.