bubbagump

Yep, the new GESI one. I ordered from COBB directly, about 3 weeks ago? Maybe 4. It arrived 2 days after I ordered. Awesome on the anchorman video, that's exactly what I had going through my head when I posted! Thanks! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Awesome news on the little bit of turbo spool! Happy to hear. On the youtube's I found with the Borla system I couldn't hear it but they're all taken with crappy mic's. I know the COBB Stg 2 isn't the best, I will likely start getting more into finding a good tuner, but I figure this will hold me over for the nice weather we've got coming up. My daily is a 2017 impreza and it's borrrring. At least it has a manual trans but still boring. Need a little excitement in my driving routine. Regarding the new tunes from COBB with the check-engine lights : This down-pipe *should* be able to pass those checks, per COBB. If not I have already downloaded the previous versions that don't have as stringent checks. I am keeping my fingers crossed on this one.

Thanks for response! Well, my turbo building prowess is admittedly lacking. That's why I went with a Melett CHRA. From the reading I've done it seems they are a very trusted brand. I figured leaving the hard part (rotating assembly) to experts was probably the best idea. Figured I could handle bolting on housings. As far as going in steps, I'm far too excited to just see it go. Besides, the OEM downpipe is the only part that was actually broken, everything else is just due to getting carried away. If I blow my turbo and take out my engine I am not toooo concerned. Honestly that's my plan. Run this hard until I break something then use it as an excuse to strip it down to nothing and go full bore, new engine, 6spd, etc. I've got an accessport so I should just be able to run their Stg 2 OTB tune with this downpipe. Should work? Regarding the Borla - I'm hoping it is everything I think it might be. I'm looking for something a bit understated with a nice low tone. I am not too crazy about crackle pops. I am hoping however I'll be able to hear a little bit of the turbo through it, not sure if that's going to happen.

It all started with a cracked downpipe flange. Things changed, one rationalization/justification at a time. What is the point of an awesome downpipe if it still sounds roughly the same? Why would I take out a turbo w/ 120k miles and just put it back? Of course, I need to replace every damn heat shield too – it only makes sense. Honestly I’m just excited, and also I have a problem knowing when to stop. In hindsight, with the amount of work I’ve put in I could have started to consider VF52, injectors, blah blah blah. But I don’t regret any of it. I’ve had this car for 12+ years and am really happy I can finally show it a bit of love. Today I did a dry-fit in my living room just for fun. Everything should be buttoned up by the end of this coming weekend. Going to be zooming around with a big smile, and likely some ice cream in hand Saturday night. Woohoo! 1. “Newish” turbo. Scavenged parts from 3 old turbos. New Melett CHRA (1450-050-901). Built this with gf on Saturday night, was a good experience. 2. New heat shields for manifolds. 3. New “cross-over” pipe. 4. Catless uppipe (finally) 5. COBB catted down pipe. 6. Borla cat-back 7. Oil pan 8. Front engine mounts.

Maxcapacity on here was saying he was able to sell the entire downpipe (two pieces) to a scrapper for nearly 1k USD. I have one sitting in my garage currently, deciding what to do with it. See his post here, it's a few posts down: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/should-replace-turbo-preemptivelyi-285713.html I've seen him post the same info in a couple different locations. Anyways, the big question - what to sell it for. Tough one. I recently was in a similar situation with a video card. Ended up selling to someone who I KNOW is actually going to use it to play games vs. someone who would have turned around and sold it for 2x what they paid for it.

Thanks for input everyone! Here's where I'm at on this. 1. I will attempt to fix waste gate alignment but do not plan on using the housing for this rebuild. 2. I will use the housing with the "R5 H1" casting marks. Upon further research it seems that the "18" stamping mark inside the turbine inlet is what really matters? Hoping someone who really knows weighs in, otherwise I'm just going to do it and see how it goes.

Correction - it is worth it's weight in palladium, which yes...you're correct - it is worth more by weight than gold. Maybe this? The amount of palladium in your downpipe could very well be worth quite a bit more to a scrapper than you are asking.

Thanks! I had just found it myself at your recommendation. Not sure my torch is up to snuff but I'm going to give it a go! Otherwise I might try and use the housing marked as "R5 H1". I am going to take a bunch of measurements this weekend using a better measurement device than I had on hand last night. If it is seemingly identical to the "R5 H4" housing I might just go that route.

https://www.subarupartwholesale.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Wagon/_54102_6024364/EXHAUST-FRONT-JOINT-PIPE-05MY-06MY/B13-440-06.html https://www.subarupartwholesale.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Wagon/_54102_6024464/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-05MY-06MY/B13-055-01.html I recently tackled this. I ended up buying the manifolds, pipe that connects them, and an up pipe recently from Ebay. I was really after the center pipe and up pipe. The center pipe by itself is expensive and you can't order just the shields for that pipe. The listing I bought for the STI pipes : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-STI-WRX-OEM-Exhaust-Headers-Exhaust-Manifold-Up-Pipe-EXCELLENT-CONDITION/313459258872?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 The manifolds are different. Those you can buy heat shields for. I recently purchased all 4 manifold heatshields, ran like 300$. At the time I thought the STI manifold I bought didn't include front O2 (AFM) sensor. I was wrong, it does. Anyways, here are the 4 shields I bought: 14086AA072 1 Manifold cover - right lower $55.4 14085AA081 1 Manifold cover - right upper $44.81 14090AA000 1 Manifold cover - left inner 73.11 14091AA000 1 Manifold cover - left outer 93.08 Definitely not the most cost effective method to remedy some nasty heat shields but I have a problem.

Note : I deleted and reposted this thread to change the title, you may have already read this. So, I am currently in the middle of what I thought was going to be super easy VF40 center cart replacement. I'm nearing the home stretch but I found something that surprised the heck out of me. I also have a question regarding exhaust housings. 1. Let's start with the surprising finding. The stock VF40 that has been on my car since new was improperly built! As shown in the pic my waste gate flap does not completely cover the wastegate! Again, this is fresh out of my bone stock, never been taken apart 2005. Looks like they never installed spacer. Whaaat? I'm hoping covering that might give me a horsepower or 10. 2. I currently have three (3x) "VF40's" in my possession. I use quotes because one is not quite like the others. So the two that match each other - one is from my car, one is from junk yard. Both have exhaust housings marked "R5 H4". The third, also from junkyard is marked "R5 H1". They look to be identical but I am hoping someone knows where this R5 H1 is from and if I can use it. I would like to because one of the two H4's is the one with the messed up wastegate flap and the other is scored inside because the turbine ran all up over inside that thing. The H1 is in great shape, just might not be the right part. If anyone knows anything about these housings I would love some guidance. My question : Do I use the H4 that was damaged by the turbine breaking off the shaft or the H1 that is in great shape but probably not exactly what is supposed to come with vf40? Thanks!

Interested in center console lid thing, TMIC, A-pillar cover(s), probably more to follow.

Same dangle angle as mine. Wouldn't mangle trying to wrangle. Man this is fun, awesome title.

WOW! That is purty!

New oil pan and engine mounts! Figured while I had the exhaust manifold off it was time. Old oil pan was worrisomely rusty. Yeehaw!

HAH! How bad could I have messed up? About as bad as you can imagine. My drill slipped off the shaft (shank?) of the screw after the head was gone. With the pressure I was applying to the drill it went through the compressor housing like a hot knife through butter. It was a pretty instant "oh crap" moment. I'll try and get some pics when I get home. I can only imagine what you might have said if you weren't being nice. I kind of screwed this little thing up and turned it into a bigger thing .... my OCD combined with my impatience to get things back together didn't serve me well. Think I've got another housing sourced though - nothing money can't fix. By the time I get my car back together I am going to have quite the assortment of VF40 parts.

Hello, I am looking for a bit of advice on how to proceed. It all began when I removed my turbo while doing uppipe/downpipe. Turbo was fine other than having 120k miles on it. Me being me I couldn't just put it back in, I went ahead and bought a new center cartridge, figured it would be fun to freshen up my turbo a bit. I ended up destroying my housing trying to drill out the screw holding the coolant line to the compressor housing, the one in the right of the photo below" Ok, so I need a new compressor housing. Easier said than done. I got a turbo out of a junkyard yesterday only to find out the compressor turbine ran into the compressor inlet pretty good. I am trying to get another from a user on these forums but from what he has said his might be in similar shape, waiting to hear back. I have included a pic below of the compressor turbine from the junk yard. Does anyone have experience with re-using damaged compressor housings? Is this sort of damage ok or will it noticeably affect the ability to hit boost pressures? I now regret not just putting my turbo back in as-is or ponying up and getting a fresh rebuild. By the time this is said and done I am going to have spent more money than it would have been to have just bought a rebuild. Ah well, learning is cool.

It worked! I never thought I'd be interested in any CF bling but man am I excited to get a blue carbon scoop! If everything works out hopefully I will be able to post some pics of it installed in a few weeks. These forums are dangerous for the wallet.

Ball joint?

Wow, I am glad this thread pushed it's way to the top. That blue carbon scoop is great! I should probably read through the whole thread first to ascertain whether you make these anymore or not, madrig. But, do you make these anymore or considering again in the future?

I don't have all those answers unfortunately, I just took my stuff apart for the first time. Haven't yet put back together again. Looks like you've got some fun stuff to do though, I am interested in how the SPT cat back goes. I allllmost tried to buy one but they were pretty hard to find and I had second thoughts. Ended up going Borla.

I just got the COBB downpipe, initially just because of availability. I was convinced I wanted the Invidia. Cheaper and it has that cool divorced waste gate thing. I bet it does something, maybe? Anyways everyone I called was out of stock of Invidia until May or June. I even went so far as to buy from TWO vendors that claimed to have it online but then realized they couldn't get it. So, here I am - it's 200$ more expensive than the Invidia but I'm happy none the less. I haven't yet got it installed but the build quality is amazing and I am happy with customer service, they provided immediate response to they many questions I had about the cat converter. It wasn't exactly as it appears in the pictures. He was knowledgeable and really dug into the details for me. Turns out it's their new model. It isn't EPA certified unfortunately, but they are currently chasing full CARB cert. I was told the initial data is looking promising.

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Is this OEM or an aftermarket supplier? I am looking for a replacement for my aftermarket grill that a body shop installed after someone backed into me in a parking lot. The chrome peeled within a year.

Got a pic tonight of the problematic screws in question. I used a torch, tried slotting the heads, soaked overnight in PB Blaster. They are stuck beyond my means of extraction. I have never gotten easy outs to work, I usually end up drilling and screwing up the threads. Anyhow, I got another chance in the form of a different core! I will likely end up not even touching the turbo in my picture and just use everything from the new core. Will end up listing it FS in that case, maybe someone else will want to give the screw removal a go. It works fine and has zero axial shaft play, the right amount (minimal) of radial play. My friend once told me he saw a puff of smoke from my tailpipe but I am not convinced it wasn't just running a little rich.