moral hazard

Relocated the wastegate actuator via a bracket and removed material from the original mount (part of compressor housing).

Need to pick up the oil filter tomorrow and see if it's good enough now.

There are a lot of them online, just one example :

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-15715-Engine-Filter-Relocation/dp/B000CN4XOO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Derale+oil+filter+relocation&qid=1570500563&sr=8-2

Seems like you can also incorporate an oil cooler in the loop if you choose to.

I may not end up using one, just trying something different today. Will update shortly.

Scroll down to the "Programming remote" section here :

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless2010.html

southmain auto, jerryrigeverything, AvE, lockpicking lawyer, briansmobile1

 

 

I also like the humble mechanic, papadakis racing, and johnnyq90. Used to watch eric the car guy when he did repair stuff - have lost interest now that it's mostly a build channel for his projects.

I second a lot of what you listed.

I'd also recommend speedkar99 due to the detailed explanation on how a lot of components work on a car.

PeterBjorck has a great channel for showing off car builds that I could never afford.

Subi Performance has some nice engine rebuild videos.

High Performance Academy for tuning information.

Finally I also enjoy The Skid Factory for something to motivate me to get in the garage more often.

Mine were off a bit on the GT too, but not as far as yours.

 

Likewise.

I wouldn't be too concerned. Get the new belt on as best you can.

I followed the service manual and also this video:

 

Ive been also looking into the Tau tables but I cant find the definition for A2WC510C so if anyone has that it would be appreciated.

Sorry could you explain where you see the Tau tables? I'm not sure that I've heard of them.

Also I know you have the 5eat, but consider test flashing A2WC522N.

I have flashed a manual rom successfully on my 2010 and others on the romraider forum have done so for other cars/years also.

That rom would have better support and likely more tables.

Example :

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7892

https://github.com/LegacyNsfw/EcuHacks

For the price of their kit, you could do a custom header with your, choice of flanges.

Fair point.

Do you have pictur:pes compare the turbo flanges themselves? I was wondering if it would be possible to use a fa20 turbo for a while. I was thinking just chop the flanges off and weld it so the fa turbo flange would be on the ej manifold. Thanks for your research and write up

I didn't split the turbo from the header , but here is a photo from another site:

I'll be waiting on my oil filter relocation kit and a billet comp wheel to come in so this might not get any updates for a bit.

I do hope the KillerB review this thread and it would be awesome if they reach out to someone local like yourself, for test fitting on a Gen V.

There's no doubt that the KillerB kit would be awesome to pair with our EJ25 considering the awesome results people get on NASIOC with the Spoolinator kit.

The gen V might be a unicorn but it seems there still would be a lot of owners that would go for a turbo upgrade and don't want to be limited by the stock frame of the VF54.

If the filter is a problem you might want to consider an oil filter relocation kit.

I'll go ahead and put an order in for one, guess it saves messing around any further.

Can I confirm, does reading from the ecu work just fine?

Also is this the output from a test flash or actual attempt at flashing ?

He might not be wrong about the injectors causing a misfire. Best way to test that without spending a lot of money is to read the misfire error code and take note which cylinder is misfiring.

P0301 = cylinder 1

P0302 = cylinder 2

P0303 = cylinder 3

P0304 = cylinder 4

Then you can swap one injector from a known good cylinder and see if the misfire moves to that cylinder.

ObdII fault code readers are cheap and you can pair that with the Torque app on Android to read your misfire codes.

Personally I'd start with testing for blown headgaskets before moving onto fixing the misfire.

I would like to offer another guide that may help you, it was called the HolyCrapItsFast_TuningGuide.pdf

http://www.netzonexpress.com/Files/HolyCrapItsFast_TuningGuide.pdf

I am getting closer. Now the wastegate actuator is in the way of the oil filter. I'll have to find a bracket from the hardware store to space the actuator out of the way.

Header completely bolted in, not seeing any other issues apart from the oil filter.

Wouldn't be having this issue if I had the funds for the killerb turbo kit with the external wastegates on the FA20 flange to T3/4 turbo adapter...

https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/fa20-twin-scroll-fury-turbo-kit.html.html

A lot of people wish it was a bad thermostat or radiator cap or some quick easy fix. That's a good way to waste time and throw parts at the issue but not fix anything.

Take it somewhere that can do a leak down test and also test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. These cars blow headgaskets. This is coming from someone who has owned 4 Subaru's and blown headgaskets in each of them (including a 2008 non turbo model).

I was hoping that the shorter filter would do the trick but the compressor housing still touched the plastic timing cover.

So yesterday I took the time to clock the compressor housing. Will test fit again this weekend and update with pics and progress.

Just wanted to update with the progress I've made today.

Ran into 3 small issues:

1. The oil feed hard line needed to be swapped with the one from the VF54 because of the different fitting on the end. Also had to bend the VF54 hard line a bit to route around the wastegate actuator.

2. Cut a piece of coolant hard pipe from the VF54 to use as one of the coolant pipes takes a longer path on the mgt2259s. Could have probably just used a new longer hose but I decided to go with this option today.

3. I used a longer oil filter up until now ( FB25 forester style), now I will either need to rig up an external oil filter or find a smaller one as the oil filter now is fouling on the compressor outlet. Alternatively might be able to just clock the compressor housing, will remove the filter tomorrow and see how much room I am left with.

Yep the temp started to go up after moving the car.

I don't have any clue on where to start in terms of getting rid of the eyesight warnings (should have got one from a non eyesight model).

But I have sent a PM to Brunzo about how it was possible to fix the airbag light (as per an older thread he has worked that out ).

Hello,

 

I have successfully done the cluster swap to color version.

My car is 2010 Legacy Diesel Manual transmission. I have purchased color (MY13) cluster from CVT (Automatic transmission), reprogrammed it to Manual transmission and modified cluster airbag curcuit to work properly with car airbag system.

 

If there are any Diesel legacy/outback owners from Europe, I could help them with cluster swap.

I could also help with petrol clusters, but it can't be done remotely.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5760940&postcount=35

Finally installed my 2013 cluster in my 2010 gen V.

I performed the swap with the battery disconnected and the car completely dead (had the battery out for a while).

I happened to have both keys with me in the car.

Did not expect the car to start because I understand you need to have the keys reprogrammed to suit after this swap, but I thought I'd try starting anyway.

To my surprise the car starts and drives without me having to take it in to the dealership. No idea why...

Now I hope to find a way to get rid of the airbag light.

cluster airbag curcuit to work properly with car airbag system.

 

Long shot, but thought I'd ask if you could provide detail on this step.

Guessing the oil leak would be from the valve cover gaskets.

Make sure you change the coolant if not done recently, the 2010 GT did blow headgaskets, there was a bit of a list growing:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/add-me-gt-head-gasket-failure-list-255946.html

Check the control arm bushings too, they crack with age.

Also check the rubber T piece that the PCV valve is connected to, that was cracked on mine from age. Should probably just change that T hose and valve anyway by now.

What made you think you had a 5 eat ?

You could always just read the transmission part number from the transmission itself.

Or it's likely your vin plate will have a code for what the trans is.

Does not appear to be a different exhaust housing:

https://bnrsupercars.wordpress.com/2010-2014-subaru-legacy-gt-turbocharger-upgrades/

Will follow this thread.

I'm thinking of doing the same.

I already have spare case halves and CP high comp pistons (increasing compression as I run e85).

Will probably go King race bearings.

Not sure what rods, Arp bolts for sure.

Wish there was a cheap way to get the block closed deck.

What are the benifits of the facelift unit?

Curious if you actually do have more functionality other than just different knobs.