SAABaruu

Facelifted k2 setup is beautiful. The German sports car look on the LGT is the way to go imo. Luckily I found a JDM 3.0R premium clip with HID, specB honeycomb grille and oem STI lip. Offers that European luxury/sport look in an OEM fit and finish. It is for sale now, since I'm parting out my car. Great shape, practically no body work required. This is the rarest setup you can find, likely the only one of its kind at the moment. The OEM STI lip is specific for this bumper and the mounting is very solid. Fenders were sourced locally, which were bought brand new from Japan and painted once. No dents.

Updated list of items: 3D printed cubby gauge pod (prosport oil press. & boost) JDM rear bumper spats JDM aftermarket louder horns OEM mounting bracket Enkei GTC01 5x100 17x7.5 with used Bridgestone Blizzaks JDM wagon rear bumper (no exhaust garnish included but has holes drilled for it) JDM wagon rear bumper protector/garnish Very rare JDM 3.0R premium front clip with specB honeycomb grille and OEM STI front lip 2014 sti steering wheel 2005 Legacy GT SWP wagon shell, engine bay painted SWP pictures https://imgur.com/a/gLKSoSN I have no problem shipping anything here for good rates.

I also have a K24 E36 project that has been sitting for years now. This project needs attention. I picked up a 2013 Outback 3.6R with 215,000 miles that drives like it has less than half of that. 100% dealer maintained, all OEM fluids only seen this and its a testament to the reliability of subaru's when they are properly maintained (blue coolant, proper oil filters and fluids). Averaged 25MPG over the last 3000 miles I've driven it, not bad for 3.6L and 8.8" of ground clearance. I found a LGT owner who was interested in almost my entire build. This is what is left: Rare JDM Fujitsubo catback exhaust system 05-09 Legacy Aluminum exhaust garnish (wagon) Perrin rad hoses (maasai warrior called dibs on these) Radium Fuel pressure regulator-damper (maasai warrior) Custom no expense spared twin-scroll stock location turbo. Lightest turbine wheel alloy, Garrett ceramic ball bearing CHRA. Version 10 STI twin scroll tubular header, all brackets, oil feed lines, turbo inlet; complete. 380WHP with stock spool and instant response. JDM face lift 3.0R premium with STI lip & honeycomb grille 2014 STi steering wheel (mint) Cusco front strut bar EJ20X/Y 05-07 ECU to run dual AVCS heads on your 05-07 LGT/OBXT side skirt spats and rear bumper spats Radiator cooling panel OEM roof rails custom front mounted vertical flow intercooler (retains your stock condenser & crash beam) pictures of whats left for sale: https://imgur.com/a/nY9otOu

Hub conversions... 05-07 won't get ABS to work. Even if I did, the performance of the system would suffer from track width changes. Not sure how 08/09 LGTs read their wheel speeds. I was just getting my local fab shop to drill the holes for the STI wheel bearing and weld/fill the other holes on my aluminum trailing arms. Get an axle shop to cut the rear axles down to LGT size OR get adjustable hard race upper & lower arms to change rear track width (but how would the trailing arm geometry on an angle effect its performance?) For the front; 08+ STI knuckle, 12+ STI control arm (spherical bearing must be used on the LCAB, there is a reason why OEM STI did this), front STI axles. It doesn't seem to difficult outside the ABS problem which means locking up wheels screws up your center diff pretty fast.

This build took a wild turn. I ended up settling on the JDM 2 liter route. I learned the 2020 STI shortblocks don't use nitrated cranks and I just don't like fundamentals of the 257 (piston speeds, bore size etc). EJ207 version 8 shortblock refreshed with wider ring gaps on stock rotating assembly EJ20x dual avcs JDM heads with supertech beehive valve springs Version 10 JDM twin scroll header paired to a custom twin-scroll ceramic ball-bearing turbo. JDM long runner manifold with DBW adapter Custom vertical intercooler unfortunately my business is taking precedence and I pulled all my stuff back from engine builder to initiate a part out. I have lots of rare items including a very rare Fujitsubo Legalis R dual exhaust, JDM front clip, bumpers etc. PM me if you're interested in anything.

Looks great. A more unique build for sure.

I'm working on my conversion too. Aluminum specB trailing arms; weld and redrill the rear mounting holes for the STi rear wheel bearing. Get an axle shop to cut down the STi rear axles to shorten them. Does anyone know if 08+ or 15+ STI front crossmember bolts up as well? Is our front LGT crossmember okay to accept 15+ front aluminum control arms?

In my case i am replacing my ecu with a JDM one in order to properly run my new JDM engine. It was my understanding that I could hire a car locksmith to program my key to the new ECU? Why not have that done to the replacement ECU? This would be pre facelift cars only from my understanding

This 'mod' is a factory item on the JDM legacy engines and my '08 EJ20X U20 cylinder heads have the fitting on it. My problem with the GDT kit is why is it sending hot coolant from cyl4 straight to the water pump? It's not hitting a radiator and being reintroduced back into the system. I haven't been able to figure out where Subaru routed the coolant from cyl4 on their JDM legacy's. I've scoured the JDM parts diagrams, can anyone help? Pic of factory cyl4 cooling mod on U20 JDM legacy cylinder heads https://imgur.com/a/aFH7u7h

soooooo 08+ STi brembos don't fit on the rear?

My present plan is to redrill and fill the aluminum specB trailing arm to accept an 08+ STI rear wheel bearing. However, I still need to talk to my fabrication shop about this and see what they think. My plans to modify the rear aluminum trailing arm do not end there. I also want to adjust the mounting point of the trailing arm to address anti squat issues. My thought is cutting off the end of the trailing arm with the big bushing and replacing it with something that looks like the front control arm spherical bearing on the 11+ STi. So instead of using the OEM bracket, I would bolt the end of the trailing arm directly into the chassis, just like the front control arm. If the 08+ rear wheel bearing doesn't accept a GD rear STI axle, I would move the rear trailing arm mounting point out a little bit further to accommodate. Another option is to have the axles shortened otherwise wheel fitment problems would likely limit me to OEM high offset STi wheels. Again, I need to run this by the fab shop to see if this is feasible or even a good idea.

Small update; sorry no pics. Turbo & header are installed. Intake manifold is now on, car is going into the fab shop for the custom intercooler setup. Waiting on parts to come in. I removed my specB rear axles if anyone is interested in buying them.

Awesome thanks for sharing. Great timing, I was looking at EVO X recaro's for my Legacy but dreaded dealing with the unknown. Manual 05 seats suck, they're way too high. Speaking of '05, whats the issue with the passenger occupancy system in my car?

I had two body shops tell me the same thing. Now that I have a JDM rear bumper to paint and blend too I might as well paint the entire car.

Nice find on the ohlins and thanks for sharing it's dyno plots. Hope to see your car up and running this year.

A local shop, @the_subie_sanctuary does these swaps often and they can make power while getting incredible MPG. Couple things. What fuel do you plan on using? You should get the JDM legacy ecu (in your case metal case) to properly run dual avcs, which this engine needs. Don't try running it single avcs. Swap over your turbo or get a better one because the vf38 fails often. Other option is to buy an ej20y which comes from a manual transmission and uses a different turbo. Make sure to remove the banjo filters, especially by the turbo. Exhaust avcs is 2 wire on motors without airpumps and 3 wire on motor with airpumps. I personally bought the air pump motor because it has updated cylinder head design (U20) and am working to make it work with my 05 LGT. I replaced the 3 wire sensor with a new 2 wire one and ran the extra wires to the JDM ecu. Trying to run this motor on a single avcs ecu and crappy gas always nets bad results. If you're looking for simplicity, go get the single avcs plastic manifold WRX EJ205 or exiga motor. These are the easier drop in replacements that will let you keep your ecu, Cobb AP and still get the higher revving,.higher compression JDM EJ20 shortblock, with some big port heads. I recommend running 2 step colder plugs if you're tuning with an STI turbo for power and at least 93 octane (+meth if you want to make #s)

I sure know about them and sure know better than not to use them.

It is used in alot of OE sports cars like the M3. Carbon is resilient to impact but if it cracks then you're in trouble and it's hard to diagnose until a failure occurs.

NO amount of resources ($$) would get me where I am going with this build without the help of a good friend who can offer me shop space for free to work on this. Also the aid of a close friend who I regard to be one of the greatest subaru mechanics/engineers, who memorized every torque specification on subarus and religiously uses a load-cell snap-on torque wrench. A lot of my knowledge regarding subaru's comes from him. He's worked on prominent racing teams that were top of their game.

Benefits are numerous. Firstly you're dropping the weight by about 15lbs. Massive considering this is rotational weight. This translated into ~4% gains in HP/TQ across the whole RPM band. I have seen 25WHP on one STi before. It absorbs a lot of drivetrain noise, shutter, smooths out low rpm juttering and hard launches. It is a huge bang for your buck mod in my experience. It is a hollow carbon fiber tube with aluminum joints glued onto the ends of it. I am hoping to have this done for ~$800 or less (if we perhaps approach as a group buy?). I got my BMW axles rebuilt by a local shop and they were just starting to make them (10 months ago).

Appreciate it. Love the work that you do, would love to have your parts on this build.

Reserved for custom carbon fiber drive shaft for specB & 6 speed R180 swaps. My local driveshaft shop thats been around for 36 years (great work) has been working with carbon for the last year. I think I can get these on a group buy for really cheap, I will update when I go deliver my driveshaft to them.

Reserved for anti squat geometry changes: since it is a trailing arm setup, the instant center is located at the mounting point of the rear trailing arm. To increase anti-squat the mounting point must move vertically higher. The plan is to cut off the bushing mount, flip it on its side and weld it on and run a bolt through it into the chassis. Essentially it will mount just like the front lower control arm bushing does to the chassis. The plan is to use 11+ sti control arm spherical bearings and I can fine tune with spacers between the body and the bearing. Ultimately the chassis shop experts need to green light my ideas.

Reserved for 5x114 conversion Front track width will increase by 1.3" total or about 17mm on each side. This will make the change the perfect fitment of 17x8.5 +44 to +27 offset (which will definitely rub). I am anticipating the need for wider fenders and prefer metal oem fenders, so my only option is the s402 fender (which is 20mm wider). Alternatively I can try to run 08 STI BBS forged 18x8.5+53 wheels on stock fenders.

Reserved for GT35r NA Miata and HTA 86 xona rotor E36 BMW race car.