ripstik

...I have the STI WRX short shifter plus the Kartboy short shifter, bushing, shift stop, and everyhthing is topped w/the STI leather and aluminum shift knob. I'm very happy w/the results.

 

...next up for me will the upgraded clutch fork parts/line and finally getting the damper delete done.

 

dude... damper delete is life... get on it.

Bought the kartboy short shift adapter and bearing for my 2010 Legacy GT (kit was for 2015+ WRX but was on the sticky thread for 5th gen short shift options.) While I'm down there putting that in' date=' I was wondering what other parts or upgrades are going to be worthwhile. I'm not a fan of this transmission, throws are long and clunky feeling, so I'm open to any insight.[/quote']

Can't speak for the kartboy shortshifter but the STI shortthow certainly makes the shifts a lot more rewarding (and short) once you have the perrin brass bushing in there. I also thought the perrin shift stop for 1st and 2nd shifts makes a big difference for that first hard shift when its properly aligned... it also makes downshifting into 1st much more possible though it's still not the easiest.... make sure you loctite the bolts though because it will get pushed out of the way and no longer help after a few hard shifts... also clutch damper delete is a must though its not actually a shifter mod.

^^ That is clearly not OEM, but I wonder if it would be good enough for BNR to upgrade it?

 

possibly since they essentially just use the housings and those are relatively difficult to mess up(at least to outer dimensions that BNR is concerned with since they re profile the inner dimensions), but that one doesn't show a drain pan that we would need so that would have to be gotten from somewhere

Ripstik, look at the adapter closely. The inside is a bell taper to make good contact with the stock donut, and the other side uses a flat gasket to go up against the catback flange. I would trust Grimmspeed over Nameless any day.

Yeah I looked at it, maybe it's differences between different runs of the midpipe but if you look at the picture I dug up you can see the flange isn't welded onto the midpipe and even if it was it's not flush with the end so the flat gasket won't work. It may have worked if the flat gasket was designed to be on the stock side, but even if that was the case it wouldn't be viable for me because salt. I'm going to do the original nameless solution and seat an oem donut into a 3" donut. It'll cost about $40. I wish I could do it with one gasket as my expertise in sealing says that's more reliable but it's a huge hassle finding these things with more than just the ID dimension listed.

 

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Did you ever consider one of these?

 

https://www.grimmspeed.com/stock-dp-aftermarket-3-in-catback-adapter-subaru/

 

nameless actually just sent this to me, but he thinks that with their DP you can't use the flat gasket and would instead have to use it in between the stock donut and the 3" donut which means i would need to get both anyway, so why not just skip the adapter and do it as nameless originally intended. and I'm pretty sure they are right, from my memory the pipe just ends with a bell and has a flange slipped over it rather then having a flange welded to the bell like the adapter would require to use the flat gasket. so either i find a donut with dimensions i like or i get both and slam it in as originally intended.

does anyone else burn thru donut gaskets like they are going out of style? I'm about to have to replace the donut gasket between my nameless catback (roughly 3" ID) and the stock down pipe for the 3rd time (if you include the original swap). thinking a probably need to change something up, i will probably go for something with a 2.75" or 2.625" ID, but its surprisingly hard to find them with all of their dimensions listed. one thats 2.5" on the ID and... IDK 4" on the OD would likely be perfect but i have a feeling ill need to settle for something in between

 

EDIT:... just spoke with nameless, they said their donut is meant to have the stock one seated in it. seems strange to me as someone who is wholey against reusing gaskets but i guess it would work if its cranked down on hard enough.... i think I'm still going to look for something in between the 2 that will work rather than buying 2 donuts.

dimensions as given by nameless are 3.25"outer and 3" inner diameter on the tapered side, 3.75" outer and 3" inner on the flat side and .75" thickness front to back

It only starts like that if you take it out of auto by selecting an option manually vs changing the temperature setting.

 

currently trying to train my gf to use the temp settings and stop plying with the dang mode(or hit auto before she shuts it down) so that when she uses her remote starter it doesn't take so long to warm up her car. why she feels the need to have hot air blasted in her face is beyond me.

I installed this on my 2011 2.5i

 

24222-CLU-CL

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/clutch-lines/goo-24222-clu-cl-goodridge-stainless-steel-coated-clutch-line

 

Between the delete, above, and fresh fluid.. really made the pedal feel more direct.

 

Just arrived and will be put on the parts shelf for now. Lol!

 

may have to pick one of these up as well... "have to" being a loosely used term

I think the AP reads roughness on all 4 cylinders, not knock. I belive roughness is sensed by the coil packs.

 

you can track knock sum for each cylinder. but cyl 4 is scary to watch.

2 things:

 

1. probably right on the garage project

2. get a headlamp

 

i use a headlamp at times, but i don't really like it. i did have a flashlight near me somewhere but felt around for a minute and couldn't find it. i use hook lights under the hood and have florescent overhead lights to light up the work benches.... its the benchES that are part of my problem, there were 2 when i moved in, one is up against the back wall and i see no reason to change, the other is on the side, and i already moved it a bit to fit in my tool box. didn't want to get rid of it because it has this weird/cool construction where its actually a bunch of pieces of hardwood clamped together by some long bolts, and it has a wood vice on it... which is my only vice. my other issue is that i have 2 motorcycles in there also so my big idea is raised storage for my dirt bike that i can put my road bike under.

The GDT cooling mod is just snake oil, imo. Subaru knew cylinder 4 would be the weakest cylinder and that's where they put the knock sensor. The whole idea is that if any cylinder is to see knock, it should be #4. This mod raises the temps of cylinders 1-3 so that they're more prone to knock now, but you won't be able to see it because the ECU can't monitor that.

 

Who do you think knows the cooling system better, some aftermarket tuner, or the company that spent millions of dollars designing the engine?

 

Unless you're adding knock sensors to every cylinder, just leave it alone.

 

are there not knock sensors on the other cylinders?... and if not how does my ap read them?

changing spark plugs yesterday in the garage, door closed heater on because it was all of 10 degrees out, and the power went out... i never realized just how crowded my garage is until i had to get out of it with 0 light. i damn near killed myself and may have literally stumbled on to my next garage project.

Yes , my set up is 245/45/18, but my concern is running the eibach with the 16” wheels during winter

 

Talking about wheels when it comes to ground clearance is a little silly. you should be talking about your tire sizes

https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=245&aspect=45&diameter=18&wheelwidth=8&offset=40&width2=215&aspect2=65&wheel_size=16&wheel_width=7&offset2=38

 

I assumed widths and offsets but that won't make a difference in ride height. small drop in ride height less than 3/16". and 215/65/16 tires are a pretty cheap size too.

I was just thinking about this , I’m planning to run 18” anzo wheels with 245 tire during the summer, but in the winter I will be running the oem 16” steel wheels, should I be concern about being too low because of the snow ?

are you planning on running large sidewall tires on the 18's

didn't do anything to my car but i put a submission in for the free CRYTUNE e-tune for my car

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/free-e-tune-givaway-happy-holidays-277016.html?p=5858445#post5858445

go ahead and check it out if you're whip needs some extra whip this christmas

 

 

HA!

Yup, that plug is a challenge. You end up loosening the spark plug only to fin out there is not enough room to remove your ratchet or extension, then screw it back in a bit and switch extension only to find out you can't get the ratchet back on the shorter extension. It's frustrating.

 

i ended up using a 3/4" deep socket over the back of the spark plug socket do get most of the work done, but had to get it started it with a mid sized extension and finished it with a 3/8" bit for my impact driver and the ole finger spin, of course there was a fair amount of experimenting to come up with that sequence. i torqued it down with that socket as well with a 3/8-1/4 adapter making up the gap to my torque wrench... yes i torqued them to spec. 15.5 lbft or 186 inlb if anyone was wondering.. the coil gets torqued to 11.8 lb ft

on the topic of comfortable compliant suspensions, many people on here swear by koni inserts in the front and struts in the rear. coupled with stock springs it will be comparably comfortable but much more compliant in the turns( all info seen was gleaned from other's experiences) i plan to go with 1453s's and 1055s w/ 13-14 springs (slightly stiffer than 10-12) to maintain ride height and and give a little bit better handling, on top of getting rid of worn out shock.

The #4 coil is the hardest one by far to remove.

 

the coil pack itself i got out quite easily with a little tip from the service manual to turn it 180 degrees as removing it... ccw on the way out and cw on the way in(which they left out) makes it glide in quite nicely and it would have been nice if they mentioned you should remove the clips with a small flat head i was real nervous about prying the tab out and breaking it but it came off with very little force. but the spark plug was a bitch and i had to change extensions/sockets quite a few times and get pretty creative with adapters

last night i changed my cylinder 4 coil pack and plug and got my baby back at full boost...but not without getting cuts and bruises all over my hands. its pretty darn tight down there, i certainly could have had a couple more different sized extensions to help the job along. i need to patent extensions that have a removal button on the shank, would have saved me a bunch of time.

Woahhh I want one of those!! got a model#?

 

ditto, that thing is gorgeous and the text even looks like it matches the stock style.

their's the flexible strut brace

 

and just since its a photo thread

and it does fit around the intercooler on the GT tho its shown on a 3.6R

Yes. But the only disadvantage of my recommendation is that Koni won't warranty the 1453 on the 5th Gen because they spec 1447.

 

dang, i wonder how different the valving is between the 2. the comparison you did between the full extension/full compression of the 1453s, 1447 and stockers made it pretty simple to see the 1453s are the way to go if you're going to stay up near stock height which i need to because VT

Thanks for the props....but my uncanny memory for car stuff is an illness, and much to my wife's chagrin, does not extend to the rest of my life.

yes my GF is always wondering how i can remember all the nonsense i spout about cars while constantly asking her what her friends names are.

I believe they were originally planning on stopping production on the 1453 inserts when they released the new WRX complete assemblies, but we (and by we, I mean GTEASER, IIRC) told them that the inserts are also compatible with the 5th-gen Legacy where those complete assemblies are not, so they decided to keep making them.

 

I know there was at least one long stretch of time when they were no longer available. glad to see they are again readily available. these may be on my Christmas list to myself

I hope I'll feel a difference in the vertical and horizontal play. Love the STS, should have had it from the get-go.

 

Falcor - I recall reading a thread on here about that when it was first discovered that it was interchangeable with our tranny's. Something about a V1 and V2, and the V2 being the correct version.

 

 

ccw516 - likewise! I literally have yet to see another LGT, and I moved from the Twin Cities, however theres a noticeable increase in the number of 5th Gen Legacy's in the Eau Claire/Chippewa area. Chilson Subaru must have a good sales team!

 

To answer your question, I do go as far East as Marshfield / Steven's Point for my sales job, never Fox Valley yet. It would be cool to see another LGT!

 

 

 

you'll certainly feel the difference with the brass bushing, i had the STI STS since i got the car so i can't say anything about that, but with brass bushing, shift stop mount (correctly adjusted) and the clutch damper delete the car is a pleasure to shift.