ripstik

...An old co-worker of mine had a Focus ST which was a quick little car but couldn't grip the road in 1st or 2nd gear.

 

probably because it comes with the same crap tires the 5G LGT came with (except narrower and with less side wall), has half the drive wheels, and a little over 2/3 the weight. should be easily fixed with a little more tire, there is a kid in my town with a worked up one and he hooks up alright.

In case some of you didn't know from Facebook, I sent off my OEM charge pipe to a company who will be doing an aftermarket unit since the racerX model is no longer available. Stay tuned over there for the group by when it happens. I'm not in charge of it so please don't pm me with questions, as I didn't didn't coordinate it. I simply offered to send mine since i don't need it.

 

YOU DAH MAN STU! just one question, do you know if they are going to try to match the BPV location?

An Audi could definitely be fun for a little while...how long will it live at 550whp realistically?

 

the same 85k till the electronics start to bug out.

Are these recon Brembo's? They look like Brembo's. A quick google search says they're for the STi too. Rockauto comes up and listed under STi, but is out of stock.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H39HT11/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A30XU5Y510T9EB&psc=1

 

Looks more like knock off Brembos than reconditioned Brembos. even Brembos that are trashed and need to be reconditioned cost more than that.

Good timing I am having the same debate need to change my belt too. lol if you do it I'll do it

 

just do it, it takes all of 5 minutes.

I have a 22mm whiteline adjustable w/ whiteline bushings and braces and it's set to soft ( supposedly similar to a 21mm) and i love it. compared to stock you can certainly feel a bump more if you hit it with one wheel, but it's well worth it for the increased cornering confidence and to get the car to break in the rear wheels so you can power out rather than just pushing at any tiny loss of traction. as far as what I'd recommend, i wouldn't go below 20mm but literally anything would be better than stock, if you're planning on doing autocross or anyother performance driving whiteline does make a 20mm adjustable that could give you the best of both worlds 19 on the streets 21 in the sheets.

Bought Invidia Q300 CBE and Perrin 22mm adj RSB. Install next week. Next step: Cobb AP V3 and, if the CBE isn't too loud for my neighborhood, catted DP to make sure it is. Will be first mods to this LGT or any car I've owned. Let the tortured fiscal rationalizations begin...

 

it probably won't be too loud, the resonator does a lot of the work.

with no clicking from the solenoid I'd say that's your issue, either its worn out or has a bad connection, or isn't receiving the signal from the ignition switch. every time I've had starters fail in the past there was a slow degradation of start up speed, and by the end they would engage and just barely get the engine going. even after the starter on my Xterra got too weak to start the car it would still give a nice a positive click when you attempted to start it.... could always be a starter connection, making sure all contacts are tight and clean is where i'd start.

wow it looks great in that orange

The fuse box cubby/tray arrived today. The texture is not exact, but honestly you will hardly ever see it.

 

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COOL! where you get it?

Indeed it is not simple. These simulations were done using AVL\Excite software and the elasto-hydrodynamic method. The bearings under study are from a turbo diesel and the study was focused on modeling wear from oil cavitation. Its a published SAE paper if you want to read more about it.

 

... now back to software shifts. Speaking of which, it is true that holding at peak HP is best for acceleration, but dithering +/- 1000 rpm of 4100 rpm peak probably won't have much affect since my seat of the pants says the horsepower peak is pretty broad on these engines. I cannot find a dyno plot for the FB25 anywhere to confirm.

 

it is true that the peak HP on these engines is more like crest of a soft hill HP, but the real issue with simulated shifts is not taking advantage of the best gear ratio you possibly could at any moment in time.

p.s., what does this have to do with how crappy simulated gear shifts are!?

So does the CVT learn driving habits from the day you buy the car or are the shift points predetermined and they never change?

 

I was wondering the same thing

Also, I LOVE how the CVT in our '14 FXT operates, WITHOUT the simulate gear shifting. At 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, it sticks at 3-4k RPM and boosts to 15+ psig and just GOES....

 

this is why it was banned in f1, peak boost combined with the best possible drive ratio at all times.... that and cuz everyone hated the way they sound.

2 nice looking '11 GTs for sale in PA. Would feel awkward getting rid of the '13 for an older car, but 165k miles is making me look around for good deals.

 

go for it! cars don't age the way they used to, 2 years is nothing. the GT is much more fun than the i... like twice as fun.

Pretend shifts between actual ratios? From one ratio to the next, actual real ratio? I fail to see how this is a pretend shift.

shifts typically mean from one gear to another and there is a loss of engagement between them. CVT's (continuously variable transmissions) don't do this, they VARy their ratios, and should do this CONTINUOUSLY. in my mind this means the "shift" from one ratio to another isn't a shift a all but simply a quick varying of drive ratios... of course this is all semantics but saying that subaru forces "drive ratios to vary quickly to simulate the way that traditionally geared transmissions shifts between predetermined drive ratios" just doesn't role off the tongue as nice as "shifts between pretend gears"

 

But the pretend shifts only occur when the throttle is applied aggressively? So during normal operation there are no pretend shift points. How then do the pleebs not continue to think it feels funny if they aren't in the throttle constantly?

to my knowledge pretend shifts are not only during aggressive acceleration. when i had a forester as a loaner it always pretended to have gears.

 

 

... you got a problem guy?

^^^^^ BUMP!!! big news up here people ^^^^^^

What is a "simulated shift point"?

 

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the CVT pretends to have gears by "shifting" between preselected ratios so that the pleebs, that don't know a damn thing about cars, don't think it feels funny.... CVT's were banned from F1 because they were too damn fast and they are negating this, it's only, advantage.

I have been on vacation since this weekend. This past saturday, I made a Subaru parts order for maintenance items I am going to do on my Legacy and Outback. My package was delivered yesterday and some a-hole stole my package. It probably is in the trash or thrown on the side of road somewhere, because I am sure the thief probably isn't going know what to do with the gaskets, oil plug crush washers, radiator caps, super coolant etc. I was planning on doing some maintenance this weekend, but I guess that is out the door.

 

this guy needs to sell these, might actually make a dent in stolen packages if there were a couple thousand of these floating around

Is't it actually a 13mm square? I ended up buying the tool when I changed out the diff fluid on my 2010 Outback.

 

i used a 3/8-1/2 extension and had no issues, no marring or anything. 1/2" is 12.7mm so only .01" smaller than 13mm... which would likely be the measurement of the hole in the plug not of the tool that goes in it. if you measured the 13mm square drive i bet its just under 1/2"... IIRC the 1/2 adapter fit in the plug very snuggly and you'll never use the 13mm square bit for anything else.

Is it the same for the rear differential ?

 

If I remember correctly the rear is a 1/2 square drive, but it has been a while since I did mine. The front is the oddball. So the rear would only need a thread sealer not a gasket.

 

Correct its a 1/2" square drive, i just used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, no need to buy the actual 1/2" square drive bit

Thank you, is the drain plug gasket/washer the same as the one used for the oil drain plug?

 

Not sure if they are functionally the same or not but if i remember correctly the trans drain uses a torx bit (i checked its a T70) rather than a hex head.... and now that i think about it they aren't the same and this is the gasket https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-803926090-Gasket-26-3x32-3x1/dp/B00IGZQA3W save your links kids

Cmod grill is on. I need to screw it down better on the bottom. I'm gonna pull the bumper off and paint the lower air dam or whatever it's called black and do the same kind of mesh in the lower portion. Should have the mufflers on sometime in the next week or two.

 

Crazy how different the car looked stock.

 

wow that car looks leagues better crazy what some wheels a grill and a lower lip do to the look.

 

this forum is a joke.

 

we may be small in comparison to the 4th gen forum but that's mostly due to the much lower production numbers of the fun cars in our model years. I've personally gleaned plenty of information from here and have found tons of help. there will always be someone suggesting you read the thread or use the search bar on any forum.... but not sure why your calling out ammcinnis when all he did was make a small factual statement... it's gathermewool that could have toned his response back a bit and provided no information what so ever... but also don't get so butt hurt, its the internet and i thought your comment was silly too but it provided some info and I'm not a douche so i said nothing.

Bought some Motul 300 transmission fluid to see if it improves the shifting in the winter. I remember reading somewhere in the forum that you shouldn’t change the transmission fluid all once unless a shop is doing it. Can someone confirm this ?

 

not sure why you'd want to change the fluid in stages as it would just leave behind contaminants, i never read that so i don't believe its in the service manual. i changed mine this past, all at once, and i haven't had any issues... i did use motul gear 300 and there was certainly an improvement over the old gear oil, and, it being almost impossible to make a comparison to when it was fresh, i'd say its feels a little nicer than the Subaru 75W-90 Gear S that was put in at 60k. we'll see how it holds up with a Blackstone Labs test in comparison to the gear s(which was still in good shape according to BSL) in a few years