islandborn

Yes to the cams. Only 08+ work. Clutch fork: http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru-wrx/velox-billet-clutch-fork-2015-wrx-mt#.XGWKVzNKi1s You want to replace the knob too. : http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru-wrx/drivetrain/clutches/velox-billet-clutch-fork-pivot-2013-ft86#.XGWKqzNKi1s

Word. I would even go totally old school 54 coupe with a modern engine set up or something...

My 10 year old daughter wants my car when she starts driving.... um, maybe, but I'll have a "daughter" map on my AP that limits the boost to 2psi.

STI cams can be found often on NASIOC - thats where I found mine. Ebay, maybe even local subaru groups on facebook would be a good hunting ground. People are always parting out STIs and nobody really "wants" OE cams when they can upgrade them. Yeah, I wouldn't spend the coin buying "new" ones

Another thought... you said you were not going to do the heads. IAG did mine. Apparently, mine were the first they ever really did in shop - so they now have experience! lol. Heck, you might even chat with them about putting it all together in a sense and send it all to you in one box.

STi cams.... Are they worth it? Well, if you are going with a full build - why not. They can only help. They wont hurt. It would not affect "longevity". All they really do is allow the engine to open up a bit more and hold on a bit longer. However, if you don't, you prob will be forever kicking yourself. Now, its not worth it in the sense of if you were only doing that mod. Meaning that the gains would not be "worth it" based on the cost and labor of the part alone plus a new tune. That would prob run about $1500-$2000 - for a bit of a stronger top end? nope.

I had mine built by AWDTuning. They too sell Stage 1 and Stage 2 Blocks (mine is their base Stage 2) They built the whole thing - we had many conversations about what goes where and what is needed. I drive it daily (30k/year) so I didn't want anything "rough". The injectors and pump had to be upgraded because I run corn. 1000s are perfect. I am looking to switch into an AEM pump tho... DW has started to drop in reputation - first their injectors, now their pumps. Mine is fine so far, but I have 120K on it so its getting time to switch it out. There is a great DIY thread here that I followed to swap out the pumps. Pretty cool and easy. If you will stay with normal gas - stockers are fine....but it doesn't hurt to upgrade them - easy plug and play. The valves were upgraded simply for the power. Stock water pump. This can get all out of hand if you aren't careful. What you want vs what you need can be tough. To give you an idea - my whole build - engine, custom FMIC, custom TM oil cooler, clutch, and tunes put me upwards of about $15k. An engine build alone will run about $8-9k. Thats new short block engine ($3k), all the little adds, and the swap out labor. Tunes run about $500 per tune as well - 4 hours work. Now all of this is by a top notch crew. You of course can save a lot by knowledgeable friends and access to a shop - which I did not have.

Here's what they put in mine - for ideas. JE Forged Pistons King Bearings Manley H-Tuff Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts 2012 STi Crankshaft IAG Machined heads JE Headgaskets NGK Iridium One Step Colder 2309 Spark plugs GSC P-D Intake/Exhaust Valves 33mm (+1mm) Gates Timing belt kit w/water pump ARP Head Stud kit 2012 Sti Cams 11mm Sti Oil Pump Injector Dynamics 1000 fuel injectors IAG Billet Aluminum CNC Top Feed TGV Deletes

I went with mevotech for the arms. these are the ones I went with (one side): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6118326&cc=1503311&jsn=354 They really were well done. Impressed with them over the OE arms simply by looking at them. The OE has the "holes" in the bushings to help with vibration/flex I'm sure - I had tears in both sides. The Mevotechs are solid filled. I had destroyed the bushing closest to the front of the car (if you can visualize it) and it was pretty much all gone on the left side. Hence the really bad wobble when turning right. Not to say OE was poorly done, hell, it put up with my driving for 170k. Not too shabby. and yes, the moogs for the bearings. I originally thought the moogs were thicker in width (around the studs) which might pop the wheel out a bit more than OE when I first compared them. But they are the same, its just that OE thickness which matches the Moog is only around the stud - then it recesses to thinner width between. The Moog is just a solid monster. Heavier so I guess I got slower?

Complete new control arms - bushing included

I know, back to back. Anyways, alignment done after bushings.

Took the ride in for an alignment. After replacing the front control arms and new bearings, the steering wheel was a bit off. I also wanted to go to the opening of the new Subaru Dealership building. Gillman Subaru just built the largest one in the U.S. Its got a movie theater and everything! They also team up with our car club Space City Subies to host all sorts of events and give us a big discount on labor and parts. Pretty cool. Pic is thru their observation window. Yes, thats an in ground alignment rack.

Well I too replaced my F control Arms. One of the bushings was pretty much gone, and the others had cracks/splits in them. At highways speeds, if I turned right to follow the road I would get really bad wobble from the steering wheel and front end. While the tires and all were off, I also did my front bearings. MOOG has some really beefy ones! They were thicker than the OE ones! Made me think of just replacing the rear ones too. While I was dirty, I also replaced my Power Steering Pump. It was getting whiny. I also have a new starter coming tomorrow. I have to really pray it catches these last couple of days. Im at 170k so these are the things that start to fall apart. The cool thing is I did all the installs by myself! Go me! Starter will be a piece of cake.

Ya know, funny thing about the way the universe works...... I'm on my corn tune and nobody needs to be put in their place, but when I switch to 93... they are all over the place. I think the phenomenon is linked with the whole rain and a car wash deal....

Not with this modding binge you been on lately....

:lol::lol: what a great visual!!!

Taking the plunge into an all foam mattress.... I've only slept on traditional innersprings. Going with a Loom and Leaf. Sorta nervous but my bed now is starting some serious body aches for both my wife and I. Anybody sleep on foam mattresses? Likes? Dislikes? Funny note: On a few of the mattress review/comparison sites they actually have a "sex" rating. Foam mattresses are basically not as fun as the spring mattress for doing the dirty - oh well, adjust and adapt!

My horns went out - had Hella supertones - so gonna try their sharptones... sorta will add a bit of color in my front as well. Also switching out my dash cam. I have a thinkware (great cam BTW) now but bought a Kenwood one - https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-DRV-N520-Recorder-select-receivers/dp/B0711CB4M1 Reason is that it connects into my Kenwood headunit perfectly. Now to find time to get them both installed....

I thought they were fallout shelters.....

Stu is rebuilding his... he bought my 20g.... he might have his stocker....?

Here's a bit of good reading on the 18g vs 20g: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gauging-interest-external-wastegate-header-242051.html?p=5228232#post5228232 Options - pull yours, send it to BNR - cheaper method, but does put your car out of commission. OR, buy a used stocker, send to BNR, sell the original later. Other idea (one I did) - buy a new turbo - send to BNR - swap out new sexy one and then sell your old stocker. this will cost you about 3-4 hundred bucks more - but, no downtime and your turbo is brand new! On my third - pay to play and curiosity really. I first went with the BNR 18g - didn't watch oil levels and other dumb decisions so had to have a rebuild. With the rebuild I moved to trying a Steamspeed 20g. Lots of comparing. Finally that engine started to collapse based on a poor build quality after about 100k miles. Now, since I was going to start from square one - with all the knowledge built up on this forum - I had a full engine custom built and decided around a new BNR 18g again. Thats it in a nut shell.

Simple oil change. Motul and the Mazda filter... nothing new.

You will need to send in your stocker - they create the 18g out of it. And yes, they can port it too. Most of us on here that have gone to a bigger turbo runs a BNR. Great work, solid price, and very helpful if you need to call. There is a Tomioka 20g one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomioka-Racing-VF54-Turbo-for-2010-Subaru-Legacy-GT/112435052257?epid=13002507579&hash=item1a2da6bee1:g:5DUAAOSwstJZOJPg:rk:2:pf:0 and I think a couple have used it - I can't speak on quality as I don't know much about it. I'm on my third BNR turbo so I'm a bit biased

You know... soon we will be in those rolls, and the young will say the same thing.

So we gonna skip school that Wednesday? and maybe install it?