computersoc

How can I test that? Wasn't aware they just up and die. I had no symptoms of starting issues leading up to this.

I got home from work 4 hours ago. Went to start the car and it works fine in the accessory and on position, but it will not start. Doesn't make any noise at all (aside from seatbelt chime). No clicking or anything like a dead battery would. Battery is about a year old and I put a jump starter pack on it and it read 12.6V. I tried starting it with the pack and it wouldnt start either. Fluids look fine.

The release latch inside the vehicle would always dangle down when I'd release the hood. However now the hood closes fine but I think the cable has the minor problem of its own, since it closes but not without me pushing it first. At least the hood closes properly 100 percent of the time if I do that, whereas before I was trying for hours.

I replaced the mechanism for $53 myself. Took 45 minutes. Works fine except inside the car I have to push the release latch to the unreleased position, then the hood latches. It should do it on its own rather than me pushing it. But it's 99 percent better.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hood-latch-broken-244021.html It's still a problem. I steamed it clean and sprayed it and it still won't close today. Somehow when I take it for an oil change, they get it to close. I only open the hood once a year to put washer fluid in there and change the filter, so I normally get it closed after an hour of trying. I've been trying nonstop for the past three hours and it will not close. Sometimes pressing on it like the heimlich maneuver will get it to latch but that didn't work this time. Today I tried silicone and then tried PB Blaster. I even unloaded for 20 seconds. I'm out of ideas other than spending money on a shop to replace it. Dealer wants about $200 for part and labor. Part alone from them is $50. Is it safe to drive 15 miles with the secondary latch holding the hood shut?

Do I have to pay for vehicle diagnostic if they come back and say they didn't find anything? My symptoms are intermittent.

I'll give it a try in the morning. My experience with this Subaru dealer and any other dealers with intermittent problems has been, "we took it for a test drive and could not reproduce the issue the customer stated".

Did the dealer recreate it in manual mode too? I feel they'd tell me just use automatic mode. I forgot how to use the manual mode. Will it shift if I forget? What gear were you in?

I'll try that. What speeds should I be going prior to stopping? Do you get these issues without using manual mode? I've never found a reason to use manual mode. I wish the gear ratio for manual mode was more like a sports car but I feel I can just stomp on the gas with the CVT and get the same results.

Are TSBs covered for free under this or only free under B2B? What TSB and what was it for? My issue is so sporadic so I'm not sure how to approach the dealership.

Are these torque converters that are getting replaced a redesigned one or the same faulty design?

I received the letter. I have 93k and the car maybe once every two months when coming to a stop feels like it will stall but it never does. I also can't hit the gas too soon when I'm in reverse then switching it to drive or I get a clunk/unnatural feeling. Never had any other car do this, and I live in a busy street, so I can not doddle when backing out of my driveway onto the street.

I don't understand, will that TSB solve this issue? If so, will the TSB be performed for free if I'm at 55k miles (B2B is expired, but powertrain expires at 60k)? Mine does this sometimes. Would the dealer have to have it happen in front of them?