rhino6303

Drilling the control arm hole, right? So this impacts being able to go back to stock calipers?

In their install guide they say you can use the tap or use a smaller bolt with nut if you don't want to change your knuckle.

More pictures.

 

Top of connector (leave alone):

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/b18f48b8c14f97af7a23eb5ddeab7e00.jpg

 

Bottom of connector (cut off piece shown):

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/dc212c40d76356c9f5be4fee0c086202.jpg

Looks like two of these are getting added back onto my list.

Pics of the piece that needs cut off?

I'll get pictures today.

Unfortunately, no. Back to the drawing board for me too.

 

 

Bummer. Thanks for trying, though!

 

I know I said it wouldn't but now I change my mind...

 

I modeled my own 3 prong connector using autodesk inventor and then printed a rough draft. I then compared the purchased version to my printed version and to my actual tgv sensor. The overall dimensions are nearly identical but the actual tgv has a few more "bells and whistles" on the exterior.

 

How does one get the purchased version to fit? It's really simple; it's so stupid that I didn't notice it before. You just cut one little part off of the bottom and then the connector will fit right in! Unfortunately it will not "snap" into place due to the previously mentioned "bells and whistles". The connector is snug though and doesn't appear as if it will magically dosconnect.

 

Picture for proof:

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/06c7e3704280ad68647d9bf0fe5cf908.jpg

Looks like a no go for any 17s without a spacer. Was reading through their facebook page and saw a customer who said it won't even clear 04 sti bbs wheels.

Found it! http://www.xrp.com/ Call them up, they'll have you set up in no time. Just be sure to specify that you already have a filter housing, and just need the 40 micron media itself.

 

 

$40 smackaroos!!! For anyone else that would like to replace their filter from a 10 to a 40, you can call them directly and order it over the phone.

 

I contacted XRP last summer regarding their filters because mine was damaged. They actually told me the filter I was using (same as V2) was too fine for this application and a larger micron filter should be used prior to this filter to catch larger particles first. The 10 micron filter becomes clogged far too easily and will create excessive pressure at the filter. They also suggested I use the brown oring in oil applications. Again, these words are from an engineer xrp and are not mine.

 

Having said that, I still use the 10 micron filter made by xrp on my car.

Did they fit?

 

I'm itching to make a wiring harness, and these would be great... if they fit.

Unfortunately, no. Back to the drawing board for me too.

Today I purchased what I think is a plug and play solution to the tgv female connector for a clean install. I believe turkeylord discovered this a while ago. I will report back once this arrives and whether it actually fits.

 

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_110/products_id/2107

Yeah g/rev, sorry got it confused with the MAF scales [emoji38].

 

I'm not running a boost controller, as in the wastegate line is not teed to the factory EBC. The reason for this is, the 16G wastegate is 14ish psi as is, I didn't want to fight with our finicky boost controller ontop of that. Until I can get a 6-7psi gate I'm not gonna hook up the factory EBC.

Got it. I kind of thought you might have boost control disabled.

When I built my Stage 2 tune I expanded it out to 3.20g/s, basically plenty of room to grow into. When I did my very first WOT pull on this turbo my AFR's were still good (under 11 at all times), and learning views didn't have any knock. At 13.5psi I'm hitting 2.65g/s and 90% IDC (injector duty cycle), with stock turbo and similar boost it was 2.50g/s and 80% IDC.

 

Overall my stage 2 tune seems fine, just needs to be fine tuned a little bit.

Do you mean 3.2 g/rev as in load? I'm really surprised you got away without changing your wastegate and turbo dynamics in the tune.

Where is this grounding strap supposed to connect to the engine?

It's the one near the front driver side wheel.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/18/2b36c8cbd37e82d9a5a8073f29401d36.jpg

 

Sent from inner space.

The threads next to the sheet metal piece on the head.

from what I've heard/read, it's more about protecting the side of the sensor that's not in the exhaust from heat, so it's not a heatsink, it's more of a heatshield. deflects heat from the exhaust pipe away from the sensor. either wrap, coat, or add a little round heatshield (washer) under the WB02.

 

Edit for clarity, the "washer" shouldn't/doesn't need to be thick (no fender washers). just drill a hole for the O2 sensor in some thin steel and then cut the outer edges to your preferred geometric shape. round just sounds less likely to cut/poke any electricals or hands.

 

A very easy and cheap way to make a copper heatshield is to go to a home improvement store and buy a small section of 1" ID copper pipe and then cut, fold and drill the hole for the sensor.

Has anyone seen Cobb's new "fix" posted on nasioc? Essentially they tee in the fpr to the bpv hose rather than the plenum itself so all cylinders are utilized in the vacuum signal.

Ressurecting and old thread.. No one sells the i88 adapter harness anymore... how do i go about tapping into the right spots? anyone?

 

Really? http://ae64.com/i88FRharness.htm

I used to use my 10" Windows 7 laptop to do that...until I bought the openport 2.0. Now I just use microSD logging all of the time. It is so much easier than anything I've done before.

It looks nearly identical to the spearco intercooler minus the bpv location.

Believe me, I have taken that into account! Haha. I do have a spare block and heads waiting to build though. My dunlops are 235/45/17.

I've got another HPDE in July and have been looking for a "cheaper" set of 17x8 wheels that I can mount my spare tires to. I have a set of dunlop sp01 tires with about 6/32" tread left that have seen the track once.

 

I also saw my temps spike at the track last summer, but it was 95 degrees outside. I have been toying with the idea of an aluminum radiator but can't really justify it.

The VF52 fittings are the same size as a VF40; in other words it is still a stock size hose fitting. I believe they are 1/8" fittings.

I have a spearco tmic and it is even bigger than the process west. It actually looks similar to the grimmspeed one above. I turned my dipstick around and bent the handle so I can grab it from the front.

If you do not understand how to wire this with the drawing provided by SBT, I would stop right where you are and take it to a tech that understands wiring.

 

I do know how to read wiring diagrams; I am just trying to simplify the wiring/soldering for a clean install. There is no need to criticize. I will delete my previous posts.

I did mine last week and it was painless. The brakes are so much more firm now. I then took my car to the track and it never ran out of brakes.

Have: 2005 RBP winged trunk

Want: RBP wingless trunk

Location: Vancouver, WA

I know you have mentioned in other posts about this, but I searched and couldn't find them! When you installed your turbo to the uppipe you used bolts. Which specific bolt did you use and do you remember the thread pitch and diameter? I think it is the bolt the attaches the turbo bracket to the block but I can't remember. Thank you for your help!

Cobb Plano uses the 4032 Mahle in their builds and they are really quiet. They have some really high horsepower cars running them.

 

If I were to do it again this is what I would go with.

 

I have JE pistons and they are noisy, and before anyone opens their mouth my motor was built by Watt's Shop, Watt Bingham, and Cobb Plano in Dallas Area

 

TOP NOTCH BUILDER but it is noisy with the JE's

 

I plan on using the Mahle 4032 pistons in my build. They seem to be the quietest forged piston; I understand they aren't capable of huge hp numbers and don't want that on my daily driver anyways.