rhino6303

6 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Not to be a stick in your sarcastic mud, but I just swapped in @rhino6303's old 5MT into the car by myself on jack stands and had an absolutely blast swearing at the underside of my car for 12+hrs, as I kicked tools around trying to crawl out. A second set of hands would've helped shave down a couple minutes. Only every had the trans out twice. Engine out twice. Thinking I'll pull the engine next time I do a clutch to compare. Here's to the next 70K hard miles!

Degreased and cleaned. TS solid shifter linkage re-installed. TS short shifter reinstalled. WL crossmember bushings transferred. STi mount transferred. Kartboy shifter bushings reconnected. And best of all, TALLER GEARS! The LGT 5spd is MUCH more friendly than the Outback 5spd for highway driving, and I never want to hear y'all complain about it again until you've put miles on an Outback 2.5i 5spd (OBXTs have the same gears as LGTs, but different F/D). 

Nice. Shifts well still?

1 hour ago, RumblyXT said:

By the way, do you guys know how much oil the compressor takes? 

From the research I did, I found a website that stated to put the same amount of drained oil from unit being replaced with new fresh oil into the compressor and the FSM seems to states about the same.

However, measuring from the bottle I put the drained oil in, it seems to be close to 13 oz of oil and that's what I put back in. Did I put too much oil in it?

Oddly enough, the evaporator when replaced also take 3.9 oz..

Anyone knows the HVAC System Total Oil Capacity?? I don't want to overfill it with oil that it may damage the compressor..

 

I believe it is 150mL of oil for the system. If you look at any new compressor, they are prefilled woith the proper amount and it states 150mL.

Yes you should worry and yes you should fix it. You'll need a new intake manifold and the hoses/fittings as well.

9 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Not a good day for me and my LGT yesterday.

Went to lunch break and when pulling from the parking lot to go back to the office, car started buckling like crazy, stalled and had some cray misfires (black smoke and pops from the exhaust). Barely made it to the office, car jerking, misfiring and stalling several times. Going back home after work was no fun at all but I made it.

CEL P0340 Camshaft position sensor. I know where crankshaft position sensor is but this one I did not run into yet. Not sure what caused it, may be yesterday being the first really warm day (75) and car sitting in the sun. Car starts fine and idles perfectly until I get moving and RPMs go 3K and above.

That sounds like the sensor might actually be bad. Our Tribeca had one fail and it would barely drive (bucking, etc).

I believe bank 1 is right side head (above cylinder 3).

You might check alternator voltage output just to be sure. A bad alternator can cause many electrical faults.

You might have a fueling issue. The pump might not be supplying enough fuel or getting enough current. Do you have a way of tracking fuel pressure?

https://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59

I have one of these on my lifted impreza. It works well.

I believe those are the correct part numbers for the pipes. I did find a part number for the clamps near the waterpump pipe to be different than the one you listed (805922090). The prices for the pipes are quite obnoxious though.

I think LM22090 is good. It says it's not for use in limited slip differentials which means there are no friction modifiers.

If you're not set on Liqui Moly, use Motul gear 300 or Mobil Delvac. Both work well in subaru 5MTs.

I believe GL-5 oils are all hypoid gear oils. You just need a GL-5 within friction modifiers. This is due to the fact that the front differential of the 5MT is inside of the transmission (shares the fluid). The center diff is sealed so it doesn't matter. So we need a gear oil robust enough for the front diff and mild enough to not eat the synchros.

You just need to use fluid without friction modifiers. Contact liqui moly and ask if it isn't clear on their descriptions. 

Did you add petroleum jelly or anything to prime the oil pump?

You can try this: Remove the oil filter and crank until oil comes out. Then add filter, replenish oil and start.

2 hours ago, killjoy323232 said:

Well, I got off my rear to check a couple things out on the never-ending pile of woe that is my XT. Drove it to my dad's work, where they've got an inspection pit, to try to change the plugs and swap the coils (chasing a got-dang misfire that I can't seem to catch in the act - it'll either occasionally miss, or drop a cylinder entirely for a bit, then catch up).

I ended up changing the driver's side coils with some used OEM ones (connector on the front one was RTV'd in, and the no-name, third party coil fell apart in my hands as I was removing it - good thing I had spares!). Left the plugs alone, because the "14mm" swivel spark plug socket I bought wasn't even close to fitting the new plugs (unless the NGKs are actually 5/8ths - that'd be my luck). It seemed to miss less, but I had the A/C on and was driving into the wind. I'll keep an eye on it and see if there's an improvement. If not, I'll swap the other coils and install plugs at the same time.

More infuriating, though, is it gave me a chance to look at my turbo oil drain, because I suspected a leak there. The "new" hose (that I paid a shop an insane amount of money to replace) is twisted and damn near torn to shreds, so now, I have to find a creative way to replace that.

The spark plugs are normal 5/8 socket plugs.

What is wrong with your current toe bolts?

I agree with the linkage needing adjustment.

Alright, who bought the last stock of ntk vv0045 on rockauto.com? Lol.

I'm curious on fitment, build quality and sound. Nameless 5" is just so loud.

Where'd you buy these? Price?

One other great option for oem parts is partsouq.com. Massively discounted and worldwide 2-3 day shipping.

Also, I think the NTK is the oem supplier for vvt actuators.

4 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Ah crap. Are the OE Densos?

I have side feeds either way, so that’s one I’m not sure about.

Bosch and Denso are both considered high quality replacements in any event. And you went larger than stock anyway, so there is no OEM part for the job, so to speak, unless some STi has big top feeds from the factory.

I believe he bought oem densos that are 565cc, just like stock.

1 hour ago, rhino6303 said:

 

I can't remember where or who but there was a post here and a reply by me. The post was something like the 04 sti rear brake setup is the same as the jdm Legacy but the 04 setup needs to be machined down by 1-2mm to accept our hub.

Found it. It's 05 sti and 7mm depth. I bumped the thread with the information. I'd love someone to try this as it would really make full brembo swaps easy.

On 12/12/2021 at 7:03 AM, 05MNLGT said:

like new. flat black powder. the emboss for the hub is the only difference between the the s402/rbsti backing plates and the USDM 05 STI backing plates. the 05 STI don't have the emboss. the depth of the emboss is 7mm.

Bumping this up for wydtyl thread.

On 12/12/2021 at 12:08 PM, rhino6303 said:

05MNLGT said:

like new. flat black powder. the emboss for the hub is the only difference between the the s402/rbsti backing plates and the USDM 05 STI backing plates. the 05 STI don't have the emboss. the depth of the emboss is 7mm.

That might be a game changer if all you'd have to do is machine out a 7mm depth for an LGT hub to fit rear brembos. In theory it's easy on a mill. I might have to try to find some 05 sti backing plates and give it a shot.

Bumping this up for the wydtyl thread.

1 hour ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I could use the rear brake dust shields badly and ones that fit with the rear Brembo conversion preferably. Any recommendations there from you pros?

51 minutes ago, WRX USA said:

Pretty sure that’s only a JDM “Tuned by STi”/S402 OEM part because the rear suspension is completely different than Impreza.

I can't remember where or who but there was a post here and a reply by me. The post was something like the 04 sti rear brake setup is the same as the jdm Legacy but the 04 setup needs to be machined down by 1-2mm to accept our hub.

On 4/29/2024 at 7:33 AM, KZJonny said:

Hopefully these joiners can be a good permanent solution to the *tiny* barbs on the GS EBCS needing to plug into the largish ports on the turbo inlet. At very least, hoses have a hard time backing off of these barbs, they have some good bite to them.

Another option is to replace the 1/8 npt fittings on the ebcs with larger diameter hose fittings. Mettleair has these that are nickel plated brass to match the original type. You can do 1/16" all the way to 3/16" hose diameter.

https://www.mettleair.com/store/brass.html?cat=78&p=4

44 minutes ago, nebula72 said:

It slides right over the fork. There's now way to secure it.. it didn't come with any other hardware and I don't really see a way how I could use the original OEM clip

You slide the bearing on the fork then install the fork on the pivot pin.

https://images.app.goo.gl/Q2xGeh7dAAp84qbg6

Should look like this.