rhino6303

I think this would only work if the harnesses are the "same" configurations. It would be super annoying to have to swap an entire engine harness and possibly bulkhead harness anytime you'd have to get emissions testing. You are correct that you have to have a ton of codes turned off and ready monitors forced on. I really don't wven know if the ej20x/y will even run on a usdm ecu if you keep dual avcs and intake manifold/sensors.

Do you have emissions testingwhere you live? Will you get the harness and ecu with the engine? I'd say go for it if no testing and you get the harness/ecu.

I highly doubt you will. Both the engine enamel and high heat adhere well and have quite good longevity. They have always been my "go-to" paint for engines and exhaust.

That's the vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator. With it off or leaking you'll run rich at idle and part throttle and then lean under boost.

Posts 356, 357 and 375.

Remove the boot. Then use a big mallet, bend the joint and hit it off. There is no circlip on the outer cv.

They are AN4. If you can't find a replacement element for your V1 filter, call xrp and buy a 40 micron space saver filter (this is the v2 filter but 40 microns instead of 10). Xrp recommends a 40 instead of a 10 because the 10 clogs too easily.

A good, solid bit and having the motor out of the engine bay. It's really only tricky if you're removing the cams with the motor installed.

I wouldn't use my harbor freight torque wrench on engine internals. I use it for suspension and such. You'll also need to be able to do low torque for things like valve covers and such. My HF can't do the low torque stuff well.

I believe your equation should have (x/50) instead of just x.

I think that is where the brake booster vacuum line connects.

What is your measured load? I'd really like to see a WOT log because I have similar mods but haven't been on a dyno. Thanks.

Sorry for the poor quality. These are the pictures I was able to grab. Hopefully these will suffice. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160517/f06b49e949e98b1b9d113eb56080fc04.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq356/rhino6303/14635295706992.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq356/rhino6303/20160517_170132_1.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq356/rhino6303/tmpPhoto.jpg

You can make that fairly easy with some pipe, a threaded rod, a large fender washer and threaded couplers. I made one to replace ball joints in my wife's OBS. It was simple with the tool. I didn't need it for the LGT; my ball joints practically fell out when I hit them with the fork. Edit: Here is the link with instructions. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=118445

It wasn't me. I pasted from the nasioc thread. I really might buy this now because I have these wheels though.

These can be fitted with 2011-2014 wrx wheels. From the nasioc thread: "On that note. I managed to get them to fit under 2011 wrx wheels which are 17x8 53 offset. "NOTE:SHAVED DOWN THE CALIPER 3MM ON TOP TO CLEAR BARROW" :D:D I had to remove material 1" wide down the valley of the caliper separation. If you look closely into the barrow you can see markings where I tested the wheel rotation around the caliper. Since the barrow is not true the contact points were not just in the center line."

Nope. 5MT.

I just returned a set of new axles. I needed them in a rush and, as usual, they vibrated terribly. The outer joint was super loose and rattled bad. I rebooted my oem axles and have no more vibrations.

In their install guide they say you can use the tap or use a smaller bolt with nut if you don't want to change your knuckle.

More pictures. Top of connector (leave alone): http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/b18f48b8c14f97af7a23eb5ddeab7e00.jpg Bottom of connector (cut off piece shown): http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/dc212c40d76356c9f5be4fee0c086202.jpg

I'll get pictures today.

I know I said it wouldn't but now I change my mind... I modeled my own 3 prong connector using autodesk inventor and then printed a rough draft. I then compared the purchased version to my printed version and to my actual tgv sensor. The overall dimensions are nearly identical but the actual tgv has a few more "bells and whistles" on the exterior. How does one get the purchased version to fit? It's really simple; it's so stupid that I didn't notice it before. You just cut one little part off of the bottom and then the connector will fit right in! Unfortunately it will not "snap" into place due to the previously mentioned "bells and whistles". The connector is snug though and doesn't appear as if it will magically dosconnect. Picture for proof: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/06c7e3704280ad68647d9bf0fe5cf908.jpg

Looks like a no go for any 17s without a spacer. Was reading through their facebook page and saw a customer who said it won't even clear 04 sti bbs wheels.

I contacted XRP last summer regarding their filters because mine was damaged. They actually told me the filter I was using (same as V2) was too fine for this application and a larger micron filter should be used prior to this filter to catch larger particles first. The 10 micron filter becomes clogged far too easily and will create excessive pressure at the filter. They also suggested I use the brown oring in oil applications. Again, these words are from an engineer xrp and are not mine. Having said that, I still use the 10 micron filter made by xrp on my car.

Unfortunately, no. Back to the drawing board for me too.