rhino6303

2 hours ago, killjoy323232 said:

Well, I got off my rear to check a couple things out on the never-ending pile of woe that is my XT. Drove it to my dad's work, where they've got an inspection pit, to try to change the plugs and swap the coils (chasing a got-dang misfire that I can't seem to catch in the act - it'll either occasionally miss, or drop a cylinder entirely for a bit, then catch up).

I ended up changing the driver's side coils with some used OEM ones (connector on the front one was RTV'd in, and the no-name, third party coil fell apart in my hands as I was removing it - good thing I had spares!). Left the plugs alone, because the "14mm" swivel spark plug socket I bought wasn't even close to fitting the new plugs (unless the NGKs are actually 5/8ths - that'd be my luck). It seemed to miss less, but I had the A/C on and was driving into the wind. I'll keep an eye on it and see if there's an improvement. If not, I'll swap the other coils and install plugs at the same time.

More infuriating, though, is it gave me a chance to look at my turbo oil drain, because I suspected a leak there. The "new" hose (that I paid a shop an insane amount of money to replace) is twisted and damn near torn to shreds, so now, I have to find a creative way to replace that.

The spark plugs are normal 5/8 socket plugs.

What is wrong with your current toe bolts?

I agree with the linkage needing adjustment.

Alright, who bought the last stock of ntk vv0045 on rockauto.com? Lol.

I'm curious on fitment, build quality and sound. Nameless 5" is just so loud.

Where'd you buy these? Price?

One other great option for oem parts is partsouq.com. Massively discounted and worldwide 2-3 day shipping.

Also, I think the NTK is the oem supplier for vvt actuators.

4 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Ah crap. Are the OE Densos?

I have side feeds either way, so that’s one I’m not sure about.

Bosch and Denso are both considered high quality replacements in any event. And you went larger than stock anyway, so there is no OEM part for the job, so to speak, unless some STi has big top feeds from the factory.

I believe he bought oem densos that are 565cc, just like stock.

1 hour ago, rhino6303 said:

 

I can't remember where or who but there was a post here and a reply by me. The post was something like the 04 sti rear brake setup is the same as the jdm Legacy but the 04 setup needs to be machined down by 1-2mm to accept our hub.

Found it. It's 05 sti and 7mm depth. I bumped the thread with the information. I'd love someone to try this as it would really make full brembo swaps easy.

On 12/12/2021 at 7:03 AM, 05MNLGT said:

like new. flat black powder. the emboss for the hub is the only difference between the the s402/rbsti backing plates and the USDM 05 STI backing plates. the 05 STI don't have the emboss. the depth of the emboss is 7mm.

Bumping this up for wydtyl thread.

On 12/12/2021 at 12:08 PM, rhino6303 said:

05MNLGT said:

like new. flat black powder. the emboss for the hub is the only difference between the the s402/rbsti backing plates and the USDM 05 STI backing plates. the 05 STI don't have the emboss. the depth of the emboss is 7mm.

That might be a game changer if all you'd have to do is machine out a 7mm depth for an LGT hub to fit rear brembos. In theory it's easy on a mill. I might have to try to find some 05 sti backing plates and give it a shot.

Bumping this up for the wydtyl thread.

1 hour ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I could use the rear brake dust shields badly and ones that fit with the rear Brembo conversion preferably. Any recommendations there from you pros?

51 minutes ago, WRX USA said:

Pretty sure that’s only a JDM “Tuned by STi”/S402 OEM part because the rear suspension is completely different than Impreza.

I can't remember where or who but there was a post here and a reply by me. The post was something like the 04 sti rear brake setup is the same as the jdm Legacy but the 04 setup needs to be machined down by 1-2mm to accept our hub.

On 4/29/2024 at 7:33 AM, KZJonny said:

Hopefully these joiners can be a good permanent solution to the *tiny* barbs on the GS EBCS needing to plug into the largish ports on the turbo inlet. At very least, hoses have a hard time backing off of these barbs, they have some good bite to them.

Another option is to replace the 1/8 npt fittings on the ebcs with larger diameter hose fittings. Mettleair has these that are nickel plated brass to match the original type. You can do 1/16" all the way to 3/16" hose diameter.

https://www.mettleair.com/store/brass.html?cat=78&p=4

44 minutes ago, nebula72 said:

It slides right over the fork. There's now way to secure it.. it didn't come with any other hardware and I don't really see a way how I could use the original OEM clip

You slide the bearing on the fork then install the fork on the pivot pin.

https://images.app.goo.gl/Q2xGeh7dAAp84qbg6

Should look like this.

The bearing looks normal to me. The ears wrap around the fork. There should be a clip that holds the fork to the pivot pin on the trans; that's the only clip I've ever seen on my clutch setups. Take a picture of the new bearing on your fork. If it doesn't look right you may need to buy a new fork.

17 minutes ago, mejum said:

The spec.B mounts are coming up as part number 20320AG00A, which are the same for the GT and what I ordered and pictured above.

However, when searching the forums, there is a suggestion to use part number 20320AG01A--is anyone able to verify that they are the lower profile top hat?

 

Spec B mounts are 01A.

10 minutes ago, pleiadesfella said:

I hate to barge in here with a bunch of questions, but I'm tired of being a nuisance with making threads for every question and issue I have. and I've been having alot of both recently  

so today I found out my old 07 lgt has a big ol rust hole in the exhaust manifold. that's a car I need to get rid of as soon as possible but can't do so without fixing all the problems first, and the manifold is a big issue. I was already thinking of getting an aftermarket ELH for my spec b eventually, and now I'm thinking I should get an ELH now and put the good OEM manifold off my spec b onto my lgt to save on that cost while getting what I actually want.

however... its going to be a good while until I can get my spec b retuned for anything as my preferred tuner is a 3hr drive away from me and the car still needs some other problems fixed (such as an electrical issue that caused a steering lock while driving). the car is currently tuned with a stage 2 protune done by a good shop out in montreal, and the car has a catless dp which it is tuned for. would I be able to get away with installing an ELH without getting it retuned right off the bat? I've seen so many conflicting views on other forums about this - some say its fine as long as you don't drive hard, and some imply your engine will immediately disintegrate as soon as you start and move the car with an ELH its not tuned for...

I need my old lgt fixed asap and I think this is a great opportunity to upgrade my spec b and reuse my good OEM manifold off of it, but I just need to be sure I can safely drive my spec b with an ELH in the meantime until I can get it tuned. should I just start looking for an e-tuner? that's not a risk I really want to take considering the mileage of my motor (145k mi) in case it decides to chew out a rod bearing during a hard tuning run, but I might if its for the best.

I just wish I could stop chasing issues and start driving my spec b properly... especially while the weather is nice for once!

Your boost (and timing) is really the issue with swapping exhaust manifolds as you'll hit higher boost with lower load values. Do you have the ability to run a lower boost map? If you can, run it and you should be ok; this is assuming you stay out of high load/boost driving. If you can't change your map, you should be fine ONLY if you can keep out of boost and moderate/high loads. This would mean staying under 3.5k and slow acceleration pretty much all of the time until you can get a retune.

If you're having fuel issues I wouldn't go WOT at all. It's a recipe to explode and melt things. Lean under load = bad day.

Misfiring and high afr at idle is commonly a vacuum leak. You should log the following on your AP:

Short term a/f correction, Long term a/f correction, AFR #1, MAF, Load, RPM.

Post these values at cold start, cruise, and warm idle.

I think it's time for a compression test. This is simple and will at least point to or rule out whether an internal issue if it exists.

54 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

My last set of rear wheel bearings lasted quite a while, close to a 100k. And I have a lot of dead weight in the trunk too (~150 lbs); also rocking quite negative camber as well for them canyons . Not sure if the latter add more strains to the wheel bearings..

My front ones are currently some NTN ones I got on ebay. 46k miles so far. I usually get everything from ebay and very rarely encounter any problem. Will keep in mind rockauto though.

rhino, where do you source your BCA wheel bearings from?

Rockauto usually.

9 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

That's strange. You may have to retrace your steps when you were fixing the washer sprayer. Maybe you messed up something?

As for me: my supposedly Timken brand rear wheel bearing lasted a whopping 10K miles . Full of play. Bought it on eBay. Has 'Timken' brand and manufacturing date stamped on wheel bearing. Looks legit, but definitely crap. The one before that lasted a week! I'll have to buy my bearings from Napa next time..

I only buy BCA wheel bearings now.

DET21S-01-0565-4

Get these.

Do you know if there was a protune before you flashed the cobb ots tune?

What are all of the modifications on the engine? I know you listed some but give us a single post with all if you can. Thanks.

Intake, Injectors, Turbo, Downpipe, Intercooler, EBCS?

2 minutes ago, Bobsyouruncl said:

NSS? 

Neutral Safety Switch

It detects when the car is in a gear or in neutral.

I would recommend you reach out to iwire as they specialize in swaps. They could answer any questions and give good feedback on which motor would be easiest to swap.