Rittmeister

Got it out. It's torn. Right above the bottom center bolt, which is where I perceived the leak to be coming from. I don't think I tore it on the way out, so I must have done it while maneuvering it in on the install. I'm a bit mystified as to why it didn't leak for nearly 6 weeks, and then let go all over the place, but I'm picking up a replacement shortly.

 

Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it.

I also concluded that the washers aren't needed/expected on this car. It took a fair amount of image searching though.

 

The gaskets are the blue FelPro (only ones I've handled, didn't know there were different versions). They came with spark plug tube seals, which I also replaced, but it's definitely not leaking from around the spark plug wells. I gotta be honest, I bought FelPro because a) their products have worked well for me in the past on a variety of vehicles and b) this kit was one of the popular ones on RockAuto when I was ordering parts.

 

I tried to be very careful not to kink it up during install but maybe something happened. What I can't get over is how it was fine for like 5 weeks - and I was under the car several times during that period, and it was always dry - and now it's leaking all over very suddenly. I think I have no choice but to pull it off and see what's going on - hoping to do it later today.

Car - 2009 Outback, 2.5 non-turbo, automatic trans.

 

I replaced the valve cover gaskets in December; I did the right side on 12/12 and had my mechanic do the other a week later (I just didn't have time).

 

Within the last few days the right side (the one I did) has started leaking like a sieve. It didn't start slow - it just sort of let go. Near as I can tell it's dripping from close to or around the bottom center bolt. I stuck a wrench on it and it's tight, so I don't want to torque it any more (I used a torque wrench on the install). I can't figure out why it would just suddenly let go like that. This is roughly 5 weeks and less than 500 miles after installing the new gaskets.

 

I used the Fel-Pro gaskets, which I've had good luck using on many other cars, though I admit this is my first VC gasket job on a Subaru.

 

I plan to take it off tomorrow and see if it's kinked or nicked or something, but I was pretty careful getting it on so I doubt I'll find anything strange. Are the FelPro just not a good option for this application - and if so, what should I get instead? I'm leaving drips on the street as I drive...

 

Secondary question - none of the valve cover bolts had any kind of washers or grommets or anything. Should there be some? I found a couple parts diagrams that seem to think so - click here - but I also did an image search and for my model year/engine I have yet to find a pic of one that looks like it has anything other than just the bolts.

 

Any help appreciated.

Ouch. Well, good luck with that - I hope you get it dealt with!

Thanksgiving was bit busier than I expected with family and what not, so I didn't get the time to give the Stickydashfix a shot. Unfortunately, my next day off is 12/19 so it's going to be a little while.

I will still report back my findings when I get to it.

 

 

Any chance you've had a chance to try this out? I'm considering picking it up myself. Either that or a dash mat...

Oh just to be clear, you can't see the rear main seal from the starter hole. But when I pulled my starter and I could wipe oil off it, there's really only one place that could come from in my eyes, unlikely it came from the access plate to the right of the seal. (in addition to other symptoms, like my clutch slipping with 15-20k on it, and an engine oil leak that goes straight back and hits my transmission drain plug)

 

The only other possibility I see, ruling out head gaskets, might be the oil pan like you asked about in the past. I went under my car often when I was trying to diagnose my leaks, and I can't really remember how close/far the mounts are to the oil pan. Even if they are a little bit above the pan, I wonder if airflow could push oil up as you're driving.

 

At around 200k, maybe a little over 200k, my oem power steering rack started leaking from the area with the blue box around it. Picture stolen from underdog's thread below

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/underdog-motorsports-2015-sti-steering-rack-swap-234351.html

 

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll pull the starter sometime soon - though there is NO oil or fluid/leakage that I can see anywhere on the front diff casing or transmission, and I would think a leaking rear main would cause some to wind up there.

 

As for the rack, it actually wouldn't surprise me too much. I had to replace the rack on my old 2000 Outback at 85k miles. I still have the records of having done it but that was 7 years and several cars ago, and I didn't take pics of the leak, so the exact location isn't in the ol' memory banks.

 

I'll be talking to my guy in the morning, to see if he can look the steering system over more closely before I pick the car up.

In another post you said your car only has 94k, I really don't think the mounts are bad. My mounts are wet with oil too, from my rear main seal which I'm 90% positive is leaking, and/or my head gasket(s).

 

The mounts are right next to the head gaskets. I know you said yours were done already in the other thread, but maybe they f'ed up.. Could pull your starter to see if your rear main seal is potentially leaking like I think mine is. Mine was covered with a film of oil, like it had been sprayed with a oil spray bottle. I also can see wetness where the bell housing mates up with the engine, above the front right motor mount. Just little clues because I know how hard it can be to track down oil leaks on our cars, been there, done that..

 

Good eye/memory. Car just rolled over 95k.

 

-I don't think it's the headgaskets. 90% sure.

-I don't think it's the rear main (same reasoning as the mounts, I don't think it would've failed at only 95k miles) but it's possible.

-If the mounts are solid, that doesn't leave much.

 

I didn't know you can see the rear main through the starter hole, I'll see about that (pun intended). I am starting to think it might be power steering based on where I'm seeing the most mess and where it's dripping off from - which is mainly the subframe. It looks brownish like motor oil but it could easily be ATF/ps fluid mixed with grime.

 

More research needed, clearly. My mechanic and I have a long relationship - 15+ years - and he's always been honest and competent, but he's not a Subaru specialist so it's possible he's misdiagnosing.

 

Thanks for all input so far. Can anyone point me towards common failure points/leak locations on the steering rack or lines underneath?

My car is an '09. Could the later cars have had hydraulic mounts? I've found references here in this forum to fluid-filled mounts...

I've been chasing an oil leak for a couple months. Without going into details I got stumped and turned the problem over to my mechanic. He tells me that my left side motor mount is actively leaking fluid, and the right side looks like it's either a) seeming very dry and potentially could crack soon or b) already leaked out dry.

 

I'm pretty sure I can swap the mounts myself (I've done it on other cars) but I'm hoping for some recommendations on what mounts to get. Budget isn't the biggest consideration but OEM mounts are listed at $170 each right now which seems ridiculous to me, that's just too much ($340 for both?!??!) in my opinion.

 

Aftermarket options include:

 

-Autozone has Duralast at about $75 each

-Advance has Anchor and DEA from $70 up to $120 each, never heard of these

-RockAuto also has Anchor and DEA but for far lower prices.

 

There are others too from some other vendors and I haven't looked at Amazon yet. Interestingly a number of brands (Anchor and Power Torque) have the same p/n as the Duralast part so I assume they're actually the same thing.

 

Anyway - I'm curious what folks have gone with lately and if you're happy with the result. I though of using the Group N mounts as it looks like they're only $120 for the pair, but I'm not interested in the increased NVH in my boring 2.5 non-turbo automatic daily driver.

 

Any info appreciated!

My driver's seat heat is super hot, even on the lowest setting. Like burn-my-a$$ after a few minutes hot. I don't know about the passenger seat, I don't have someone in that seat often enough to ask. Car is an '09 OB.

 

I searched around here and found several fairly old references to a similar issue but no fixes. I wonder if it's somehow the switch itself (having failed wide open?), or if there's some component similar to the fan-speed resistor most cars have to allow the AC blower to run at different speeds.

 

I'm curious if anyone has managed to deal with this "issue" or if we're all just putting up with it

 

Any info appreciated.

Last try before this stuff goes for scrap. Make an offer!

Bump. Tophats etc and spring still here. Make offer, need gone.

I'm going to give this product a shot-

https://stickydashfix.com/

Shipped out from Australia and has decent reviews. SOA won't respond to any of the emails or phone calls to date.

 

 

Please give us a review when you're done. I've been eyeing that for a while and if it's fairly simple I'd go with it. My local dealer wouldn't help, and suggested I not bother with SOA though I suppose it's an option.

It shouldn't be headgaskets on my car as they were done before I got it (I have receipts). Possible it's the RMS but the car only has 94k miles so I'm hoping it's not that. I recently had to do both the driver's front axle and front diff fluid (4EAT); the front diff casing is bone dry so it doesn't seem to be the RMS at this point. I could be wrong, the subframe makes it tough to see up in that area when you're on your back in the driveway...

I've only had my car since February, but I am suspecting that the oil pan is leaking a bit around the flange. I think re-sealing it isn't too big a deal but I'm curious how many folks have had this issue?

 

 

Thanks for any info.

Sweet! Thanks for that, it's a big help.

Yea, I can grab one later today after work and upload it.

 

 

That'd be awesome. I can measure all day but I'll still put the hole in the wrong place. Having a visual aid would be a huge help.

I was going to go this route but haven't gotten to making it yet. I've already drilled small holes in the rear cargo area for easy access and just use some interior panel retainer clips to cover the holes.

 

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/koni-sport-diy-extended-adjuster/62936/page1/

 

 

I ran across this in my searching. I've got so many Koni plastic adjusters around here I could easily spare one haha.

 

Any chance you have a pic of where you cut the hole you mentioned?

I've been rocking Konis with H&R springs on my '09 Outback for under a week but results are very favorable.

 

I'm wondering how folks have gone about reaching the adjusters in the rear. In my 2012 Legacy the upper strut mount was under the floor. I cut a small hole in the trunk carpet and was able to easily reach them.

 

In my '09, the upper mounts are closer to the wheel wells, and from above they're more under the side trim than they are under the floor. Getting the adjusters in there is a real pain.

 

Anybody got a (hopefully cheap/easy) solution?

Bilstein setup is SOLD.

 

Tophats/spring perches/boots/bumpstops still available.

 

Front spring pair still available.

 

Make offer, I really just want this stuff out of here.

Bilsteins are SOLD.

 

 

 

 

Complete front top assemblies from 2005-9 Outback/Legacy. Asking $50 plus shipping/paypal for everything.

 

-Tophats w/top nut

-Cone washers

-Upper spring perches w/rubber insulators

-Foam bumpstops (shorter Legacy spec)

-Dust boots

 

 

These are all from a pair of front Legacy strut assemblies I picked up from a local salvage yard, to install my Koni inserts into. I cut and gutted the struts but I had bought new top end parts to use so these are redundant. There's surface rust and they're dirty but everything seems structurally sound. Make an offer, I really just want them out of here.

 

 

 

 

3. Front (1 pair) of 2005-9 Legacy coil springs. Asking $40 plus shipping/paypal for the pair. I apologize but I didn't snap a picture of these, I'll try to get one shortly. In good shape. These were sold to me as LGT springs with the assemblies mentioned above, but I have no way of verifying that, and I have no idea of the mileage on them when they were removed. No, I do not have rear springs - only the fronts. I will do a package deal with the springs and all the top end parts if someone is interested.

 

 

I hope I have represented these parts fairly. None are perfect but hopefully they can be put to good use. In particular I'd have kept the Bilsteins on my car but I got the bug to lower it further than these do (they're basically stock Legacy height). Please PM if interested, and thanks for looking.

Thanks, I’ll see about sourcing one.

I'm kind of weary that the gates idler is the problem. Even with a terrible bearing I feel it would last more than 3,000 miles.

 

Is it always making the noise? Does it only make it when the a/c pump kicks on? The a/c clutch may be the culprit.

 

I'm 99% sure it's the pulley. It does it most of the time, and if I carefully squirt some PB or WD40 on the pulley shaft behind the dust washer, it stops squeaking immediately. It returns after 3-5 minutes of friction and heat drying up the lube. That, and the squeak did go away for several months after I initially replaced the pulley (and I used the same method to determine it that time).

 

I guess I'll poke around with my stethoscope to be sure, but I'd still love to know the particulars on the bearing when you have a minute to find them.

I can look when I get home. Off the top of my head I think it's a 6203 bearing. I'll edit this post later.

 

 

That'd be great, thanks.

I would not have thought of that, but I would be willing to try it. Do you have a source and/or a part number or sizing info on the correct bearing?