socalsleeper

These guys are less of an "oil cooler" and more of a temperature normalizer. In cold climates they help warm the oil sooner since the water gets to temp sooner than the oil, and in warm climates they do help remove excess heat from the oil. So it has two jobs calling just a cooler is leaving out one of its most important jobs. Same can be said about the coolant passage in the throttle body, that is mostly a warming device to prevent icing in extreme cold. Most people plug it off down south, but it is prob very useful in the upper states and Canada.

Unfortunately, my front wheel wells did not turn out how I had hoped. I originally put some black paint over the existing rubberized goop from the factory, but that would not cure properly and would remain tacky.

I cleaned it with acetone and applied some rubberized undercoating and that dried, for a while but again got tacky. I could just clean it with acetone again, but that also makes that undercoating look messy so it is going to come off. Time to bust out the heat gun and scraper.... ugh.

 

That is a long way of saying I feel your pain!!! and applaud your progress, keep at it.

So my car was in storage for about 5+ years (technically still is...), when I cracked a ring land pulled the engine. Life got interesting as I moved cross country and had other family issues in that timeframe.

 

During this time I had my car in a garage under a car cover the whole time and the dash was not sticky when it went it but was when it came out. I did put armor all on it when it went into storage and I would pull the car out once in a while to wash it and put it back in the garage.

 

At first it looked chalky white this came off ok with plain water and dish soap and has gotten better since then. I would still replace it if I have the chance.

I do have a big sticky issue with the tweeter trim on the doors, those are very tacky now, I am trying to figure out how to neutralize that so I can refinish those parts.

Awesome I only need the rear lower. Also how is the dash, sticky?

Send me a PM with what you want for the seat bench

Rear seat lower bench, pics please.

Deleting your evap will do nothing for your current problem, if that is your problem. You still have from the sounds of it a pressure problem.

Deleting the Evap is only advisable for a track only car, a) it is "illegal" to delete emissions related components from your street car, you won't pass emissions visual or scan tool since the computer they hook up to your car is looking for readiness status.

 

b) you still need a custom tune to get rid of the check engine light, again that will cause you to fail emissions. = headaches

c) Most importantly if you sell this to someone else you just made their life a lot harder than necessary.

 

You can block it off, or disable it, but I would not delete it. But for a track car, hell yeah gut that ******. Fix your problem, if it is the valve, it is less than a $20 part.

asking saabaru about theirs is how I found out.

 

for those interested in the 5x100 to 5x114.3 discussion, LIC motorsports made a conversion hub at one point. One of those things I wish I had bought. Maybe IAG could be convinced to make a limited one-run gb?

 

That would be awesome! Where they the whole bearing Assy, or the trailing arm modified to accept the STI hub.

 

Reason I ask is I need to mix and mash some axels together to make a hybrid. Being able to just run an STI axel would be much easier.

Last point the valves themselves are cheap but usually burried somewhere on top of the tank.

You might have a bad pressure release valve that is allowing vapor pressure to build up in the tank. These are sometimes referred to as roll-over valves that don't allow fuel to escape in the event of a rollover crash. They are part of the evap system and vent to the charcoal canister.

once some pressure builds up the fuel line is the path of lease resistance for the pressure to vent. If when you remove the gas cap a bunch of pressure vents on a warm day you are prob on the right path.

I replaced everything....

I have a build thread going here, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/back-dead-rebuild-thread-283715.html

 

For the backing plate I trimmed the edges to clear larger rotors and repainted them. The hubs are new timken parts, and the fasteners I got from the dealership.

The trailing arms them selves have been media blasted and powder coated silver to mimic the natural aluminum color. Bushings have been replaced, and the lateral links are new whiteline adjustable parts.

Added Stock muffler pics

pretty parts take a long time...order now. when the box shows up, its motivation.

You are a bad influence, I knew I liked you for a reason...

Yeah, Instagram has really diluted reality. Most pictures are carefully staged and are only binary before and after. Never mind the man hours and thousands of dollars it took to get there.

 

I got into a small disagreement over a Coyote swap in a classic Mustang. I said this should come with a big disclaimer since this is not an easy swap... The internet did not like that, "You can totally do...", "you must not know cars..." you get the idea. My point was the coyote is really wide up top and requires metal work which most people can't do with simple hand tools. You get some poor guy in way over his head just to find out the motor don't fit, that sounds shitty to me.

 

Maybe I'm just getting old and behind the times since my attention span is more than a few seconds but I miss the long form discussions, and detailed build threads. The wealth of information is so deep on the forums. Kids today don't really know what they are missing out on since for older cars they can just do a quick search and every thing is there for them already figured out. What they are forgetting is that this information is there because many many members took their time to do testing, go through the trial and error, and wrote it all down in painful detail.

 

 

We here might be a dyeing breed gents.

thank you boxkita for taking the time to keep info alive on the forum , also thanks to all for the nice comment , i really appreciate cause yes sometime is not easy and fun doing parts .

to answer some questions about the parts, there are made by vacuum , parts are raw carbon when demolded , raw carbon is sanded and a sealer is applied , then sealer is sanded and clear coat is applied ,and most of the time clear is sanded and polished .long process and labor intensive but is the best look you can get . yes it is UV cause i use and automotive clear .

if you want a parts you contact me and i do it , you dont need to pay in advance , parts are guaranty, if you receive a parts you dont like return it and get a refund i will pay return fee also . delay are long yes , cause labor take time and i not only doing parts for subaru legacy .

 

Thank you for the reply, I will be contacting you at some point but right now I have a longgg list of other things to take care of before I get the "pretty" parts.

When I see cheap CF I just think of fiberglass with tinted resin, because most people will not know the difference. Secondly, most parts people get are non-structural so the strength of real CF is not necessary. Also there are a ton of parts which only have a thin CF top layer with a cheaper material making the bulk of the product.

 

I have considered making my own CF parts being well aware it is a) a money pit, and b) it will not come out how I envision it in my head. Lastly, it will be a lot of work and as it is known; you have time and money, but rarely do you have both in excess.

 

I would love to make a hood, trunk lid, door skins, wide body fenders with Nomex a honeycomb core or closed cell foam with ideal fabric to resin ratio, great balance of strength and lightness. But guess what buddy that shit is unrealistic for a guy in his tiny garage, and his car in a million pieces.

 

Side note, if want to see some guy actually doing just that check this guy out https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsx-HTIYPn3CiBQFd4rMyXw.

This guy breaks down the nitty gritty truth of making CF parts in a garage, and the cost. His initial investment was something like $15K in materials, to get started.

 

 

Sorry to thread jack with this discussion, but I like this kind of stuff so I get carried away.

Given the quality of his parts (I know we are in speculation town now) I think it is safe to assume he is well aware of how to properly develop and post-treat CF parts. You don't end up with these results by accident.

 

I ask some of these questions mostly as a discussion point so other members are aware that CF is not as simple as adding fabric and goop in a mold. It takes a lot of work to end up with these results.

 

I worked in aerospace for a while and the amount of prep that goes into making a high quality part is ridiculous. One "simple" part like the radiator shroud might only take a few layers of CF material but piles of consumables like peel ply, breather fabric, mold wax, PVA, bagging materials, the list goes on and on.

I would not say my build is awesome, not yet at least. But that is the goal!!!

With folks like you in the community the bar is mighty high to earn that distinction.

HEY HEY HEY!!!

 

Don't you know some of us are trying to keep the mods addiction in check over here. You have to go posting all of these fancy bits.

 

But in all seriousness thanks for posting these links for the community in one place as someone who is for all intents and purposes spending way more than I should on this car this is very tempting.

 

Question to the man himself, your carbon parts are they UV stable? I am guessing you are either using a UV stable resin, or some kind of top coat (something like duratech's sunsheild https://www.fibreglast.com/product/Duratec_Sunshield).

Lastly, for the EDM console parts is a mat finish an option, I like CF but for interiors I find the high gloss finish to be a little too much for my taste, I prefer a more understated appearance.

Quick update, I have been tinkering on the car but nothing worth taking pictures of. When I trimmed the dust shields for the rear brakes I had to touch up the exposed edges before I put the parking brake hardware back on. That is all done now.

 

I got a killer deal locally on a new front lip and Cusco strut bar. I slapped the lip on the car the bar will stay off until I get the engine in, this thing still has the blue tape on it, and I don't want to beat it up.

 

This weekend I installed the 60/40 folding rear seat assy on the legacy. It all went together nicely except for the lower bench. I only got the upper form another member and I had planned to use my lower. Looks like the folding 60/40 have a slightly thicker bolster in the rear, and a little deeper of a cut out at the edges so there is a gap where the seats meet. Looks like I am on the hunt for a new lower bench and have a full rear to sell...

 

I just remembered that I got the P/S cooler finally done and installed on the car. It is all painted and fits great, I did have to trim a very small amount of the lower fender liner for a corner to clear, I have some ABS scraps that I will use to close that up.

I'll post a pic of this later.

 

As for what I am doing now, I am pulling the seats out and running the last of the wiring to each of the doors for the speakers from the rear of the car. Got the drivers side done, now on to the passengers side. Just a few connections to make and this is crossed off my list. For the audio set up I have planned I will need to find a place for the hazard switch since this will be inaccessible with the new head unit I want to use.

To say this is impressive is a massive understatement. Great work buddy!!

Bump

zf transmission in colorado has been the goto place for 5/6mt rebuilds. Getting all the tools to do it today might be hard, or I didn't look very long. The plate to set the backlash appears to be unobtainable

 

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but you can get the plate although from an unlikely source.

Apparently there is a decent sized community of folks that Subi swap their VWs. I thought they just adapted the VW gearbox to the new engine. Looks like they are converting the trans with a new pinion shaft and removing the rear output.

Point being they need to set the pinion depth and sell the plate for about $150. Here is a link.

http://www.subarugears.com/Pricing/Pricing.html

While I still have a ways to go, I will prob be running Conti Extreme Contact on the street and I have heard good things about the the Toyos on the track.

if you replace all your bushings with high nvh, you'll hear more noise. Even with a brand new 5mt. You made an sti out of a lgt, the sti was super noisy brand new. It doesn't get better.

 

Turn up the radio, get a louder exhaust or just enjoy the mechanical symphony that is subaru. Track cars are noisy...just a fact of life.

 

If it really bothers you, put the car on a lift (jackstands if you don't value your life), turn it on, put it in gear, then use a stethoscope to test various areas under the car. Sitting on the pinch welds, the only noise dampener is the body mounts.

 

if the fluids are correct and there's no rubbing, then the parts are working as designed. You could have an early warning of failure so have three choices: drive it like race car until blows up then fix, or drive it like garage queen until blows up then fix, or fix as it's already blown up. I've always done the first... if its not on fire, keep your foot in it. ymmv.

 

I 100% agree with what you are saying considering I am replacing all my bushings with higher durometer bushings, so I expect more NVH, but I don't think this what some of the others were posting about. From what I gathered these are just older cars with a ton of miles and people are unsure what is normal for a mostly stock car. Sure some people have a pitch stop mount, and lowered suspension, but not full on race cars.

In any case good luck to you guys with these gearboxes, 200k miles is still good service life for any component in a car especially a transmission.

Trust me, is not bearing noise we're hearing. My 5mt only has a couple 1000 miles on it after another complete rebuild. Still sounds like a 1940's truck tranny. Shifts great though.

 

I would not debate what you are hearing, I just don't remember my 5speed being that noisy when it was new is what I a referring to. But then again I have not driven my car in a long time, and my memory by be very rosy at this point.

 

My guess is that the wear after so many miles has affected the tolerances contributing to the noise, "modern" constant mesh gearboxes with cross-cut gears should not be all that noisy. Straight cut PPG gears that is another animal altogether.

 

My friends 4 speed Muncie that was a loud bastard, which was a 1950's designed transmission.