socalsleeper

That is really cool. If you consider that for a really compact engine bay you can have a remote PS pump and AC compressor that makes your installation much more flexible.

Awesome stuff!

Night and day difference between the before and after on the rear diff-any special tools needed to repair/rebuild? Looks very clean! Always nice to see some rex pics too

For replacing seals yes and no. The only "special tool' You might need is someway to keep the pinion from spinning when you are trying to remove, and re-torque the nut that holds the flange to the pinion shaft. Otherwise hand tools.

If you are replacing bearings that is another subject. Then you need a dial indicator and some way to remove the bearings from the carrier, and prob a shop press.

For most people this level of work is best done at a shop. Before I sold my Jeep I swapped the differential in that thing to a larger stronger unit with and LSD. I replaced all seals and bearings. I took the pinion and the carrier to a shop, and did the rest myself to include checking backlash. Rebuilding a diff is definitely, and rare thing for most guys to do at home. Not rocket science, but it is just much cheaper and easier to have some one else do it.

If all you have is a leaky side seal you can do that on jackstands, if you have some humming going on. Then you should drop it, buy the bits and have a shop rebuild the hole thing and save yourself a lot of headache.

Hope that helps.

The Lexus community has a bad sticky dash problem too, here is one fix.

I would personally not do this in the car, but if you can get past that part it seems like a good process from what I have seen so far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4GL5Sv_CNY

There are plastic/interior specific paints on the market.

**DISCLAIMER**The next statement is just a guess DO NOT take this as an invitation to do this to your car's dash.

If you wanted to refinish your dash you would need to remove the surface coating with acetone, or goo-gone. Prep the surface with an adhesion promoter, and finally the color coat.

If you have a trashed dash lying around this might be a good experiment to try. Worst case scenario you cover it up with some flocking, that hides most surface defects ok.

There is no significant benefit to the 2011 steering rack. The one you want is the 2015 model for the better ratio.

I saw your video on youtube and you mentioned the hubs, the fronts will bolt in and you will have to use the STI struts, the rear is a no go, will not fit. You can adapt the brakes but not the hub.

I wonder how OpenSource tuning will react to the COBB empire change of heart?

I think the bigger question is what is the penalty for defeating emissions devices. That will be the ultimate decider.

If I was a tuner I would not risk my family's well being so someone else can avoid a check engine light. If there is no real consequences then opensource tuning might have a new renaissance.

This is all in response to the EPA and the clean air act fiasco that is going on now.

Bypassing an emissions device is illegal, so that is easy to see where they are getting pressure from, the law.

What makes it more interesting is that every state and often county has wildly different emissions standards so the gray area is massive.

In a word no, your fuel injectors should not just wiggle about.

The o-rings should be a snug fit, not gorilla tight but not just wiggle about either. New o-rings are not expensive, it is just a hassle to mess with the hold down brackets. Also make sure everything is tight you might have a loose bracket giving you some extra slack.

Those engine codes are for misfires on cylinders 2 and 3. Start with new o-rings take if from there.

We are all going to have to face the fact that changes are happening. Full electrification is not a Jetsons future anymore it is just a few years away.

Gas engines will eventually only be used in heavy vehicles (i.e. semi trucks) and motorsports. For a long time motorsports has had a no rules anything goes stance when it comes to emissions, that will likely change as well. As long as we as enthusiast keep those restrictions reasonable then it might not kill the aftermarket. But we can't leave it to some guy behind a desk looking at a spreadsheet, this is probably the most important time in the history of motorsports since it is the first time is its history that the basic means of powering the vehicles is about to change.

Keep your eyes open guys if we fall asleep on this it can totally kill the aftermarket.

Anyone play Apex, or Warzone.

My gamer tag is WILDMEX if anyone ever wants run a few rounds. I'm by no means a pro-gamer, but I'm not total trash either.

Install the MTB project android app (assuming you have an android phone). You'll find some trails in your area. I lived in Burtonsville from 2014 until last year. I was used to ride the trail network part of the Fairland Recreational Park there. Trails are pretty fun there. Further up north, you have a few trails around the Rockburn Skills Park (fun park to practice your dirt jumping skills). Also a few trails along the Cascade Falls trail. Just get the said app and you'll find all of these trails there.

Thanks for the suggestion, I run IOS, but I am sure there is something similar in the app store for me. Now I just need a responsible adult to supervise me, since I can't be trusted to keep the ground below me and the sky above.

My mind says "OUCHIE!"

I was smiling the whole time, but yeah it was less than pleasant.

I came around a bend (way too fast) and there was a double drop with no time to set myself back on the bike. I did a sweet front flip into said named bush.

I just jumped on my bike again in a while. Currently riding a Specialized Hardrock, but I had a Giant hardtail, and full suspension I was rather fond of.

I would love to find some trails to ride since I am new to the area, but I also need a riding buddy because nothing says bad idea like going down a new trail alone and ending up upside down in a thorny bush still clipped into your pedals, (ask me how I know).

Today on WTF else can I take apart to prevent me from driving this car....

 

I fixed the halfassed pin install on the steering wheel controls that came in this car. Used donor pins from my 07 so they clip in correctly, no superglue for me.

Now to just complete the run from the steering wheel down to the radio.

 

 

Also made my own aux harness that will tie into the stock plug under the center console and hook up like the factory 07 did. Thankfully there are more than 4 empty pins on those plugs.

 

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I am working this exact same project right now, I should be getting the pins in the mail later today. I just need to order a new airbag unit for the 2008+ wheel. That white plug under the dash has empty slots for wires, but if you have some wires jammed in there then you have other issues to deal with.

Side note the terminals for this mod are only a few bucks, I got new connectors and extra pins for about $14, and $5 of that was shipping.... All you need is a crimper some heat shrink and wire cutters to do this update. Although I might have to redo this later, my wheel has the bluetooth controls and the Sport sharp button, to make this work you need the 2011+ clock spring, which means reverting back to the original connector.

WOW Very crusty indeed!!!

You have the clutch style LSD, or the rock grinder type in there?

Can do, SoCal. Wired for five channel amp and sub but didn’t pull the trigger yet. Gonna play with the eq settings some more today to fine tune. Sound pretty clean with the power they have now but I’m sure it won’t be long before I want a bit more punch. Then again, anything would be better than the 15 yo blown factory setup.

Yeah definitely, those old speakers are far from top quality.

I have my car wired for 7 channels. 4 channels up front for the component speakers active cross over setup. 2 channels for the rear coaxial speakers, and the last channel for the subwoofer. I am thinking about running an audiocontrol DM 810 signal processor. I haven't decided on the power amps yet. I have a 12" JL W3 I need to have re-coned, but I might switch to a pair of 8" Sundown Audio subs for the low end.

“Spring refresh” is complete. Started with floor mats, and quickly mushroomed from there. My cockpit carpet was torn up from PO’s ski boots, always annoyed me, found one on the fs thread for a steal. As she sits now:

 

Headlights restored/lamin-x’d

Foglights-one replaced, both yellow film’d

Grill replaced- JDM black mesh and surround w/STI badge

Battery terminal/grounds cleaned up

JDM double din hvac panels+ hazard

Head unit replaced w Pioneer AVH 310EX dvd

Ballistic sound deadening- 4xdoors, rear spare well and cargo area

Hertz CX 165 6.5” speakers all round

Weather stripping repl’d on all doors

Backup camera

LED swap on all puddle and interior lights

New-to-me black carpet

Subaru rubber floor mats

 

New battery tray, tie rods, and tie down in the mail, battery itself up next

Last but not least, will have time when I run out for my first vax dose to plug in the anxiety port and finally get off the base map tune. Whew!

 

Do I need to mention what a bad influence you guys are?

Let me know what you think of those Hertz speakers. I am going to upgrade my set up sooner than later.

I heard from this website that if I wanted to get more from the rear wheels, I should invest in a 6 speed DCCD. Is there there anything else I should l

look at or is there anything I should consider?

There are a number of reasons why folks swap to the 6 speed transmission, power capacity, the electronically adjustable center diff etc., but be forewarned this is a costly endeavor running around $3500+. It is a bolt in swap, but it takes more than just the transmission. You will need the shifter assy, a DCCD controller, hybrid rear axels, new pull type clutch, slave cylinder , matching differential, drive shaft the stock one is too long for a MT Legacy.

If all you want is some better traction always start with better tires. If you want to reduce wheel spin, you can get an LSD for the stock R160. If you are putting down 400+ ft-lbs of torque and your 5 speed is about to pop any day then you should consider a 6 speed.

Lastly you have $$$ in your pocket and you don't know what to do with it... Then sure have at it. There is a lot of information here on the subject, but you need to be way more specific on your goals, and why you think this is a good idea before people can help.

I will be swapping to a 6speed, but I am going full ham on my car knowing that it is not a good financial investment if resale matters.

Mazda N3R1-14-302 filter here. About $10 on Amazon.

 

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Thats the one quick search gave me this image.

Bumping this thread, I still update the first post with new parts, sold parts etc.

I also add pictures so take a look.

Is anyone still running the "Big Kahuna" filter on their Legacy anymore?

If memory serves me right that was an RX8 filter, this was larger but had the same specs from a bypass valve, and micron filtering specification. I think you gained a little bit of oil capacity, nothing extreme, maybe 1/2 a quart at best...

On the plus side more surface area of the filter would give you more life when strictly talking about removing debris from the oil.

This bit of knowledge may have been lost in the void.