socalsleeper

Pictures of steering wheel?

I'll get some pictures this evening, but it is in really good shape.

Only reason I'm selling is I'm looking for a 2008+ with all the control buttons.

Bump

I have a steering wheel to add good condition.

I had an interesting day yesterday. The wife and I hit the road and picked up some parts for the Legacy. I got the 60/40 folding seat brackets from some guy near Philly, and I got aluminum control arms in Hanover PA.

 

Today I got the STI steering rack installed. I trimmed 1/2 inch from either side of the inner tie rods. Installed the Whiteline roll center correction outer tie rod ends. I did have a little bit of hard time getting the new ball joints into the aluminum control arms. I had to rent a tie rod removal tool to get the steel insert cone off from the cheap ball joints that came on the control arms.

 

 

 

Here is where things went a little side ways... I was cleaning one of the fender wells and I debated on how to best finish them. As you can see in the picture I have some inconsistent rubberized coating. While I do want to make the whole fender well consistent I did not want to just spray more rubberized coating over the mess that was under there.

So I scrubbed the area with a degreaser prepped it for paint and gave it a quick coat with some black chassis paint. The problem is while it cured just fine on the metal surfaces it would not dry over the rubberized coating and remained tacky even hours later and a lamp drying the area.

 

 

 

I am going to remove the paint with some brake cleaner. If I have to strip it all the way down I will. Although that does not sound like a lot of fun, stay tuned.

Quick update, I just got my steering rack. I will be picking up some Aluminum control arms tomorrow. After some clean up in the wheel wells the rack will be installed with the whiteline kit.

The rears need to be addressed also right?

 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

The rear is the whole problem the front you can bolt up the STI knuckle. There is no easy solution for the rear.

The only “real” option is to have a custom unit fabricated that will accept the STI wheel bearing with all the OEM attachment points.

Unfortunately this does not exist due to the cost of bringing it to market and how much it would cost sell. The cost way exceeds the benefits even when you consider the shorter life span of the hub units and wheel options.

Well it looks like you and I are under taking very similar tasks when it comes to the under carriage.

I was debating doing some undercoating to my car, but right now it is very clean with no corrosion. Side note, I have heard mixed opinions on the rubberized under coating products. I think it is an application issue, but some people get cracking which traps moisture against the panel making things worst. If done right I am sure it works as promised.

My solution will be to treat any corrosion early before I need to take extreme measures, also I don't plan on using this car as a winter driver. Money wise it is just cheaper to lease a civic or an elantra and use that for a daily versus my 20mpg turbo car with thousands $$ under the hood, just to have salt eat it from the bottom up.

 

I will probably just apply a fresh coat of paint on top of the existing undercoating for my car given I don't have to remove anything. The only real reason I have not done that already is I am not looking forward to using a spray can while on my back and end up in unintentional black face.

 

Your progress is looking great, keep us posted, Maybe one day some of us will plan a road trip where we can put some miles on these fresh beast.

Yes I have the whiteline kit in hand already. I do plan on trimming around 1/2” or so from each side

Bump, added a pic of the steering rack, and calipers.

Here is a picture of the rear suspension in the the car.

 

 

I am still on the look out for some rear Brembos. I have the stock parking brake bits but those won't work with the new brakes, so I guess I have some packages to hide from the wife in the near future.

 

Which leads me to the front...

Considering I went to all the hassle of removing, cleaning and painting the rear subframe, I guess I might as well do the same for the front right? You know what they say you are in for an inch you are in for a mile.

 

 

 

Got the steering rack out, that will be replaced with the 2015 unit, I have the whiteline bushings for that on had. There is still a lot to go but seeing the rear bolted in make me feel like I am making progress.

All these little bits eat up time.

If I had the space I would just buy a blast cabinet and an old oven and powder everything myself. My local powder coater is a good distance from me and I was not totally satisfied with my last transaction with them.

 

I think the end result is definitely worth the effort though. when I roll under there to see everything looking fresh and corrosion free is very satisfying.

 

Also I have the "Back from the Dead" thread going as well if you want to see what I am up to.

So here is a quick update on my "progress". I got a bunch of parts all cleaned up painted, I even cured them in the oven per the directions (I actually read those...).

 

 

I got all of the new bits installed (I'll post a picture soon), but I still need some odds and ends to call the rear end done. The big part that is missing are the coilovers. I was going to order them but the wife asked me to take it easy on the spending so we can pay a few bill since we are thinking of buying a home at the end of this year. Now she tells me to go ahead and order them... That did not take a lot of arm twisting.

 

Side note, anyone running the fortune auto 500 series coilovers, I have heard a few positive things so far and like the made in the USA aspect. I would love to hear your opinions.

 

Next on the agenda is to order the rear brake set up, before I move on to the front. That will be new aluminum control arms a 2015 steering rack. I already have the sway bar, the perrin steering joint gizmo, and the roll center correction kit on hand. You don't realize how many parts add up until you are buying a whole cars' worth one part at a time.

I have been doing a lot of the same work. I should post some updated pics on my thread.

I replace the bushings in the subframe and gave the whole thing a fresh coat of paint. I have a California car so rust is not an issue but now that I’m in the east coast I figure a fresh coat of paint is cheap insurance

I think I knew all that but forgot

 

Tell me about it. I am the original owner of my Legacy, and it does not feel like that much time as passed, but it has...

 

There is a lot of information to learn and unfortunately when if comes to technical details and memory use it or lose it is a reality.

Yes... That thread is 30-ish pages long so there is a lot to digest. I just re-read most of it last week so it is fresh in my head.

 

But the two plastic (LGT, and 2008+ WRX) are very good stock options. The only one that is "better" (very subjective, there are 30 pages of debate) based on some the flow numbers was the NA large plenum long runner manifold.

These are a little harder to get and fit since there some of the mounting holes need to be ovaled out, and then there is the whole injector type and TGV compatibility, you need a 19mm spacer for AVCS heads, then there is hood clearance to consider, etc...

 

Point being the plastic manifolds are good upgrades over the WRX manifold. They transfer less heat have a cleaner interior casting surface, bolt up to the TGVs, and have good distribution, low profile, etc.

 

For serious power people are using the Process West manifold and a few other options, but this is big power numbers 600+ hp. For your average street build with the fewest headaches the "plastic fantastic" is still a very good option.

 

Sorry for the long reply, but there was a lot of information that is useful but is in 30 pages of bickering, I tried to condense it down as best as I could.

 

Final point LGT manifold = good.

This manifold is popular with some of the WRX guys. You might have better luck on NASIOC.

I have been following a years long thread in the Built Motor section on intake manifold flow numbers.

 

This is a good performer within the stock offerings. There are better after market manifolds of course, but OEM wise this has a very little deviation cylinder to cylinder compared to a WRX or STI manifold and has more plenum volume as well.

GLWS

I finally got all of my odds and ends in. Long story short I had to special order a few fasteners from Subaru before I can get everything bolted together.

 

I got new bushings pressed into the subframe, they are only $13 from Subaru but a total PITA to get done in the car, this was the time to do them.

 

 

Also since I have the subframe out I am putting some fresh paint on it. It is not rusty, but I do get snow here in DC so a little extra protection is worth it.

 

If you look in the bottom of the picture you will see the front knuckles also have been painted.

Just to clearify what I said, I don’t want 100% RWD, I want to be able to choose RWD with a little bit more power going to the rear wheels to make drifting a little bit easier.

 

Based in this statement I am guessing you might be thinking of other 4WD vehicles or have spoken to people who are familiar with 4WD like a Jeeps.

 

Just for clarification these 4wd vehicles have selectable 4WD, 2WD, 4high, 4 low, etc this is because they have a transfer unit. This is a separate part that is bolted to the transmission with selectable modes to send power where you want it.

 

This is not how Subarus are designed. Subarus have the center differential built into the transmission, there are a few varieties of transmissions but they are similar in this regard.

Your best bet is to buy another car to hoon around, your cheapest option might be a salvage option from IAAI (I might be missing an A???) these are cars that are being sold by the insurance companies for pennies on the dollar.

Gut that thing, sell off parts to pay for mods, and don't register this as a street vehicle, off road use only. Also get a cage of some sort this will save your life if you mess up at anything over 25 mph.

 

I'm 40 now most of us that are a little older have learned (often the hard way) don't make your daily into a race car, you just end up broke and on foot.

 

Lastly and this is not entirely a joke I just heard a local blood bank paying $700/month for plasma, so there is always that option if you are tight on funds.

Seriously dude, I just told the wife I would not buy more parts and you post this....

Worst part is I have the funds too.

Interested send me you PayPal info.

The part for longer Spec B specific bolt is 901000258.

 

Thank you sir!!!

 

I just ordered them from my local dealership a little while ago.

901000174 is the non-Spec B part number is anyone else every needs this.

All

I have a bit of a problem I was hoping the Subaru experts can chime in. Hopefully this will be taken care of by the time anyone reads this, but for now here is where I am at.

 

I got myself a set of Spec B aluminum trailing arms, got them all cleaned up but they did not come with the hub, or the brake backing plate. No problem right... I have my stock backing plates, and I have brand new hub assemblies....err wrong. I need the fasteners that secure the hub to the trailing arm. The flange for the aluminum is much thicker than the steel unit requiring longer bolts.

 

The stock ones are M14x 1.25 30mm, I need 50mm.

FYI the front bolts are 40 mm so that was not an option either....ugh.

 

I ordered some from Subaru and got 30mm, going to the dealership to try to get longer ones, but without a VIN they don't know what to do sometimes. If any one has the part number that would be fantastic.

 

I hope this is all taken care of by the time someone reads this but thought I would post just in case.

I'm digging it!!! I love the idea of color being a temporary thing you can update when ever you feel like it.

Update the first post with parts that have been sold.

I will be adding more pictures and parts soon.

Love me a well-detailed, well thought out build thread. Subbed to see how this progresses

 

Thanks for the compliment.

 

I have been making some progress just nothing too interesting to take pictures of.

I just sold a bunch of parts locally and have a fist full of money burning a hole in my pocket. My question now is do I make one big purchase, (coilovers, 2015 steering rack, full brake kit) or do I get a bunch of smaller bits, bushings, links bearings, etc. You know all of the things that nickel and dime a project to death.

 

I am waiting on some things to get delivered before I can get the rear subframe installed and the trailing arms bolted up.

If only you had done that sooner....

I could have skipped the fuse holder. Too late now, plus it is handy to have a place to kill the circuit I guess.

On the up side I can just route the battery cable directly to the stud on the back of the panel in the future and have my catch can there.