Dead Mr.

I pmed you for your email i dont know what that means.... I have all the complete manual for my car and the car this engine came from.

No all Legacy 3.0R are 5eats

Sweet I sent him a PM thank you.

Does anyone know of a standalone ECU that will work with the 08-09 Legacy CAN Bus system and run an EZ36? Seems everyone I ask either doesn't have anything or for some reason doesn't want my money and never gets back to me... Johann

I thought about it and I am getting 2 sets of manifold flanges cut I was intending to make a kit for the EZ30 to sell. For right now I don't think I want to supercharge it. I think the power bump I'm going to get through this round of mods will be pretty nice and if I SC the mpg will go to shit and this is my daily after all. The MP90 is nice but I gotta look into it more its huge and hood clearance may be an issue which is fine you could cowl the hood but if I make something to sell I have to make sure I address everything. I honestly think the MP90 is too big for the 36 being that is has asymmetrical arms> Raptor makes a kit that adds I think around 60-70whp at 5-6psi and its pretty close to price I wanted to sell this kit for so maybe just get their SC and mounts and then make my own intake, intercooler system in the future. But that's a side project at best to make money to fund my MR2 war machine because my EZ30R now belongs to someone else, so I will only have time to locate the supercharger, manifold flanges, and throttle body flange and then it will be done off a support jig for clearances. I should still be able to test fit it in my car if I finish it to fab the intake and double check mounts, hose hookups and clearance. On a side note I am adding one more project to the Legacy. So as you may have seen I have an MR2 and over the winter I am planning some pretty extensive mods to it over the winter with the end goal to use it as a dedicated race car. The main mods include: Redoing the Rear Crossmember to allow higher ground clearance, and longer lower suspension arms with higher points to retain an optimal suspension geometry after a full body drop. Redoing the Rear Lower Suspension Arms and Tie Rods to allow camber/ caster/ toe adjustments using high quality oversized Hyme Joints for heavy abuse. Adding Upper Suspension arms and Shock Style Struts (from an FRS) to improve the suspension design and add dynamic camber as the wheel travels up for high speed cornering. Cutting off the Front end to redo it in a full tube front end to allow the new front suspension and aero changes. Redoing the front suspension to have upper and lower arms and relocating the shocks (FRS again so they are same as rear for simplicity) inboard so I have better adjustability, lower center of gravity as well as more room to run the 18x10 front wheels. Modifying the Rear Knuckles to run a Modified Bored out STi Front Rotor and EVO 8 Front Calipers. A hydraulic e-brake, and Bias Controller will be added as well. Fabricating New Front Knuckles to run an EVO X front bolt on bearing, rotor and caliper along with adding fine tune roll center adjustment. I will also be adding 3-4” to the front wheel base to the car to make it more sable for high speed cornering. That will obviously require extensive modification to the front end of the cars aero but they don’t make cool functional stuff for the MR2s anyways so I will be Swapping the Front Bumper, Wide Fenders, and Flushmount Headlights from an RX7 to my tube front end which work great because it’s a front engine car has a longer nose and they make functional race aero. I will integrate the front/sides of the RX7 fenders to the top/back of the MR2 fenders so it lines up to the body seamlessly and then modify the hood to tie everything in. The hood will have a reverse vent integrated into it to duct all the air from bumper to the radiator, and then out to aid with down force. The rear aero I will be adding widebody quarters and then on top of that I will be adding a set of the fender flares I installed on the Lego to get an overall added width of 3” per side on the front and 3.5” per side in the rear to run the 18x12-10 on 315/30/18 tires rear and 18x10+20 on 275/35/18 on the front. The front arms will be longer to put the wheels at the perfect offset w/o any spacers. Rear might need a spacers on my CV axles if I need to lengthen the arms but they are flange type so that should be pretty easy to do. Rear bumper will remain stock but cut at the midpoint to allow for a fully custom rear diffusor with center exit exhaust. Rear Wing is a Voltex Carbon wing with the trunk notched so it can be mounted to the frame rails of the car and hang off the back for better airflow and the trunk should still be able to open all the way in front of it. Other mods include a Full 3SGTE swap (Gen 2) with forged internals, custom header, downpipe, intercooler and pipes, intake, intake manifold. I also got a set of super rare scoops that grab air from the roof and bring it into the engine bay which I am modifying to work with a roof lip spoiler and have bigger scoops. The rear engine cover is a reverse vent style like what I am using for the hood so the lip will help the rear wing stay in air steam and create low pressure over engine so the reverse vent can suck hot air out. Rollcage, racing seats, fire suppression, will be added but I’m going to keep amenities like a stereo, heater, interior trim/ panels cuz I will still prolly drive it on the street a lot to auto x events and car meets, shows etc. Sorry for the long novel but now we get to the project that involves the lego (figured you might want some back story lol). Since I am doing all this work to the MR2 to be a full race car I wanted to have a paintjob that fit the part. I didn’t want to paint it one color and then cover it in vinyl of sponsors I don’t have because I don’t need them since I can do it all my self (cept for tires….). I have been getting back into drawing and it’s been a lot of fun. With my wrist being compromised my time spent on cars has been limited to just my own things to prolong my abilities to work on them so obviously I need something else to fill my time. My plan is to do a fully custom paintjob on the MR2 with Anime and Japanese inspired scene. I will be finishing the Aero/ Suspension/ and Brakes and then doing the body work at my buddies shop. We are going to paint the car white and do one coat of clear where I will get it home and stuff the entire car down and map out the design in pencil and then start masking and lining everything out to paint. Start off with base colors and then go back in with an airbrush with tinted up or down colors to add detail and depth. It’s a huge huge undertaking so when it’s done, I will take nice pics of the car and scan the images so I can reprint and panels in vinyl if I screw them up. I only have limited experience with airbrushing but I’m confident I can pull it off and it won’t look like crap lol. However I am not a man of faith, and I believe in proof of concept and testing need to be done before going all in on something that huge so…. I will be doing a test run of my ideas on painting detailed art on the hood of my Legacy. I will most likely get a spare hood so I can drive my car and if it comes out awesome, I will swap the Hood onto the Lego. If not I will sand it back down and sell it and then reconfigure my MR2 design to be printed and wrapped. I have already started on the concept art for the MR2 and the Legacy Test I will post progress (regarding the legacy) as I have it. Cleaned out my shop now so I have lots of room to work. I am using a reference picture for my drawing on the Legacy so I have something I can compare it too to make sure I can do this to the quality I expect so it doesn’t look like one of those shitty city portraits you see on clapped out lowriders… lol Plans in the shop this weekend so progress pics soon. Later.

Update: No update. I got a few parts in to finish up some stuff that I'm going to try and make some progress this weekend but my ECU issues still go unanswered. I have sent emails to a few vendors both from here and via email and it seems that nobody needs to make a sale.... My other buddy turned into a flakey douche so I guess I'm on my own. I will start by mapping out both harnesses and then I will finish everything I can while I wait for someone to help me with some answers. I have some other projects I want to take on at some point I can start on but unfortunately I'm getting the point in all of my projects that I dread the most which it when I need to depend on someone else's help. Its where I always get let down lol. Pics of more progress this weekend prolly.

I sent out messages. I can get 3 sets shipped tomorrow if I wanted. PM me

I wish I had pics of the auto X I drove her in but they weren't good and the guy wanted 20 bucks a pic... lol I got this one though. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/30R21_zpsc62e4372.jpg

Hey yall. Bit of an update. Got all the exhaust pieces welded up aside from the axle backs cuz I need to make new hangers so I will get to that this weekend but I got the car back on its tires again so I could get the trim out of the interior. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsnvplawh8.jpg I forgot how sexy she looks on her wheels… lol Also I made some progress making the template for the sheet metal work on my manifold. Ran out of pizza boxes…. But I found some more yesterday and had a yummy dinner so I should have enough to finish now. lol http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpszrwpvisy.jpg I ordered a couple last pieces for the build today so I will prolly get those this and next week so I can keep working on the mechanical while I sort out the ecu/ wiring. I ordered a couple exterior bits to dress up the outside a tad to make the car a little more aggressive with the addition of its added displacement. Clean and subtle though. I finally got a call from my buddy and upon review he things we can possible get the stock ECU to work aside from an issue with the AC. Seems the way the A/C controlled are different between the 2 cars so we might keep my stock ECU and power it, splice the signal wires it needs, and just use it to run the A/C. We can erase its ability to trigger codes because it obviously will since its engine outputs will not be working. We then use the EZ36 ECU to run the engine, and turn off any codes it sends to the lack of any AC inputs. Least that’s what we are thinking. I will probably need to order a couple ECUs so I can de-solder the plug off one to make a bridge harness so I don’t have to do any permanent modification to my dash harness. I’m pretty sure regardless of what I ECU I run, I will line up the EZ36s wiring to the correct wires it shares with my car so it will be easier on the ECU side when it comes to wiring in. Least that will allow me to finish all the work in the engine bay if I start to run out of crap to do while we sort this out. On the other side of things I did find out there are options for stand-alone ECUs but they need to be CAN supported with gives me Motec, Haltec, or Hydra as my only real options. Vipec is not CAN supported so that’s out. I will let you know once I have more sorted out but I still have plenty to do before the wiring stops me. Hoping to get my flanges for the intake manifold this week so I get them surfaced and maybe button up my manifold this weekend.I will still need to have the lexan etched and cut but I need to design what I want to put on it and what shape I want it to be. Anywho that’s all I got for this post. I have also started sorting out and planning the battle strategy for my MR2 race car transformation. But that’s another project… Do we have a non-Legacy thread on here? The MR2 forum is lame, and there is a desktop-know-it-all that likes to try and shoot down my projects and he annoys me… lol Later Johann

I just installed mine with stock gaskets and they fit fine. I have an EZ36 in an 09 Lego 3.0R but they say they fit all legos. I don't know what spacers you guys are talking about.. I fabricated my y-pipe off a jig I made off the stock header and it was a direct fit. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsbcbc0ovg.jpg

Why don't you just cut them out so they actually work? I did it to my 09 Lego and my 99 Lego I grafted 09 Bumper parts on... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/30R16_zps33490a7d.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/DSC_1602.jpg

Hey yall. So another update time is here. Started my weekend by reinstalling my head, timing the engine and resealing the oil pan, timing, and valve covers. While the Fuji-bon was curing I cleaned/ painted my engine bay and swapped out all the fasteners for my pretty ones I got. Then it was time to drop the EZ36 into its new home and it all bolted in pretty easy. Turns out the timing cover sticks out a little farther then the EZ30 so I had to trim some of the radiator fans.I also found out that the redesign on the EZ36 requires different brackets to hold the P/S pump and AC compressor but luckily they share the same units so I didn’t have to buy a new pump and compressor.Stuck my Manifold parts I have lightly fabed on there for some pics. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsl4yluymm.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsmustzuhh.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpslpiaicys.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsied5qwkq.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsmdhdcgn8.jpg Next it was onto the exhaust. The raptor headers I got were only the collectors so a y-pipe to the cat-back exhaust needed to be made. First I made a Jig of the stock header. I bought a set of downpipes from a 350z because they had bends I needed plus 2 resonators that look like cats and 4 o2 sensor bungs to start.Then I had a piece of 2.5” stainless off a stock car laying around for the strait sections. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsq86twwk9.jpg Here is the jig I made. Looks like a sweet guitar. Locates the o2 sensors the rear hanger mount and the basic contour of the Y so I wouldn’t run into the tranny or underbody. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpswgxzfajl.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsmx9nlrsj.jpg And here is my new header. Not super pretty but it works and it only cost me $120.00 in parts to make and a few hours of my time. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpspafu8rcf.jpg And here it is. Fits like a glove.I added that flex pipe thinking I may need it but turns out I prolly didn’t but whateva. I change the rear flange to a standard 2 bolt gasket type so next I need to modify my cat-back to fit up and get rid of the stock donut style gasket. O2 sensor locations changed a bit but no modifications need to install them. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsbcbc0ovg.jpg Well that’s pretty much it for now. Once I mod the cat-back I will drop all the exhaust bits and finish weld everything. That should button up the underside so the car should be able to come off the jack-stands and sit on its wheels for the remainder of the swap. I put the EZ30 back on the stand and installed its accessory drive and turns out that the P/S pump and AC compressor are actually closer to the manifold then they are on the EZ36 by about a ½”. I’m going to alter the Manifold to fit the EZ30 and then I will know it can work with either manifold so I think I’m going to move the throttle body back a bit more. I will need to make a jig to locate it in the car on the EZ36 and fabricate the intake so I can put it as close to the firewall as possible to give me the most room to make the surge tank as large as possible. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpspxzftkf4.jpg As for wiring still no word. I contacted Raptor asking them what they use to Tune their EZ36s and to see if they have a viable standalone option I can order with an EZ36 base-map so we will see what they replay with. Then hopefully I’ll have some direction so I can sort out the engine harness and get that installed. Gotta pull the trim too and re-wrap it cuz I hate that fake wood shit so that’s also on the list. I will also be making a strut bar at some point that has an integrated brake booster brace and an oil catch can mount but that’s lower on the priority list. More updates as time permits. Later.

Nice whip man. I always get pumped when I see another H6 guy dolling up their car. What's the pump for? Are you running out of fuel? I'm doing an EZ36 Swap into my 3.0R and now I'm wondering if I should be doing the same... Johann

Well hey there yall.So here is what I have been working on. I looked at the diagram for the plugs that identify them so check for cross referencing and wire count to see if they were viable to swap etc… http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zps9qo7ykwx.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpshjxjkwrb.jpg Stuff that’s Red/ Purple are a match Red only is EZ36 Specific Purple only is EZ30 Specific Pink Dot means does not have viable swap or needs to be added to plug into my body harness w/o modification to the body harness. Blue and Orange are viable swaps but not if I reuse the EZ30s ECU Stuff Outlined in Aqua are Location changes Black is Not in scope (tranny stuff its identical) Green was to verify wire number. So this told me that though the harnesses are similar, the EZ30 ECU would not be capable of running the Variable Valve Timing on the EZ36 and because of that probably isn’t a viable option cuz the ECU would probably freak out. So next I looked into the ECUs to see if swapping in a EZ36 2013 Legacy ECU into my car was a viable option. I found the pigtail shapes and pinout count appear to be the same so theoretically the EZ36 ECU can plug into my car… But…. The pinouts are pretty much completely different aside from a few wires so I did another cross reference spread sheet to see how it all paned out. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsdi8umxxr.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpse2affmen.jpg Green: Means there is a Viable Swap and their operating conditions are the same Pink: Specified to the EZ30 Purple: Specified to the EZ36 Orange: Not needed (auto start crap) Black: Means the options is only present in one ECU and either needs to be added or removed As you can see a fair amount of the Wiring swaps pretty good. The Rear EZ30 Oil Switching Valves can be repurposed to be the Exhaust Cam Oil Flow Valves. Exhaust Cam Angle sensors, Oil level Sensor etc can be added to a 3rd pigtail to avoid cutting the body hardness. I’m having my Subaru buddy have a look at it to see if this is a viable option I may need to go Stand alone. If I do It will suck but it will make a possible Future 5MT swap a breeze and if I ever drop a Supercharger in here tuning will also be easy so it has its pluses. If this is viable; the next step will be to make a harness that goes from the EZ36 ECU to the Stock ECU Body harness that runs the matched wires to the right spot, any additional or wires that cant be moved in the stock harness will go in a 3rd stand alone pigtail. The on the other side I will redo the EZ36 engine harness to link to my stock harness correctly and then run the added wires to the 3rd plug. This should allow the swap to be plug and play with no permanent modification to my Legacy's body harness in case for some reason I want to swap back or some other unforeseen future idea of mine... lol I may just to all the mechanical fab/ work and then tow the car to my buddy to hash out the wiring together so we can tune it right after. More updates to come. This puts me in a good place to decide once and for all what my next moves are with the wiring so now I can focus on getting the engine in the car and finishing up my header and manifold. I’ll see you all in around 2 weeks. I’m goin on vaykay. Johann

No its all in my head... Just imagine a sharp angle polygonal plenum with a clear lexan top so you can see the velocity stack goodness. The lexan is 3/8" thick and will be bolted/ sealed around the edges and in the middle. I think I'm painting the manifold black and the inside some cool edgy color that matches my purple. I cant make the final intake design till I get my P/S pump mount from Subaru so I can mount my accessories and make sure everything clears but I intend to make the plenum as big as functionally possible. The intake will leave the throttle body strait back for the MAF will be mounted underneath and then split and head towards each headlight with a black foam filter. I would post up a little doodle but I'm using my free time going through wiring diagrams and getting migraines...

So… been diving into the wiring a little more since last night and I found out f a few things and ran into a few snags. First I used the Manuals and got all the mechanical info I needed for installing the head and the timing chain assembly. Then I got into the wiring by cross referencing the harness so see what they share and what differs.This is what I found: The EZ36 has an Oil Level Sensor the EZ30 does not have. The EZ36 has Cam Angle Sensors for both the Intake and Exhaust (4 total) whereas the EZ30 Only has Cam Sensors on the Intake Cams. The EZ36 has Oil Flow Control Valves for all 4 Cams whereas the EZ30 has 2 Flow Control and 2 Switch Valves just the intake Cams. The EZ30 Has 2 Sensors called Variable Valve Lift Diagnosis Oil Pressure Switches that the EZ36 does not have. Everything Else is exactly the same, which is about 80% of all the components. From what I can find these Valve Lift Switches are what tells the ECU whether the Cam is in High Lift or Low Lift Mode. I believe because the EZ30 only has variable timing on the intake it only needs these switches whereas the EZ36 has both intake and exhaust variable timing it uses the exhaust Cam Angle Sensors to verify its High and Low Lift Modes. From what I can also tell these engine both use the same Trigger system for their timing. With that figured out, I have come to the conclusion that if I install the EZ36 I will not be able to control the variable timing at all, which isn’t a bad thing if the cams go into high lift mode when they are not functioning like the STi heads do when installed in a WRX w/o AVCS control. I have no real way to verify that from what I have for info,so I had a look at the ECUs and it looks like they share the same plug styles meaning I can plug an EZ36 ECU into my Legacy.However the issue is that they only share a few of the same pinouts. So, in closing for this update I will be cross referencing the ECU specs to see if I can make a custom harness that allows the EZ36 ECU to run in my car so I can fully control all functions of the EZ36 without issue. I think I will need de-solder the EZ30 ECU Female Plug and make a conversion harness that runs all the EZ36 Wires to the correct points on the body harness with an additional plug that will run from the ECU to the engine directly that has the additional wires my car does not have (such as the exhaust Cam Angle Sensors) So I will be spending the next week or so cross referencing the ECUs and making a few diagrams to map out the conversion harness I will need to create. Worst case I will have both harnesses mapped so if it turns out I need to get an Standalone ECU I can.I will post all my research as I have it finished so others will hopefully be able to use it for whatever they are doing. Being the pioneer has the bragging rights, but the learning and setbacks because you are paving the way is a considerable annoyance lol. However, I am confident I can get this to work, so I will be moving forward on installing the EZ36 into me Legacy as soon as I have the long block back together and timed. I will not be here for the next 10 days but I’m taking my wiring crap with me so I can hopefully have it sorted out and make progress while I’m not able to work on the car.Needless to say when I started this the amount of info I could gather told me it would not be this involved…But such is life right at least I have the skills to finish the job… I hope… hahaha Later Johann

Dude I finally got to be able to open this. You sir, are my new bestie. Its got everything! Going to sort through and print off the relevant data and get started on my stuff tonight. Thanx!

Hey yall. Got some work done but I could finish the assy. on the long-block till I get the info I need to get the head and timing chains back on so I did some cleaning and hammered out a bit more on the manifold fab. I got a medley of purple dress-up fasteners and some other pretties for the engine bay.I figure if I’m going to do all this work to make my engine and manifold look so sweet I should doll up the bay to match. I’m still waiting for some purple ti m8 nuts to use on the strut towers, master cylinder and I converted my intake manifold to use 45mm m8 studs and nuts instead of bolts because it will make a better seal that I can torque down more. I know my car is N/A and its prolly overkill but it might not always be N/A lol so least I will be ready if I do boost it. Also got a billet pitch mount cuz its pretty and the stock mounts are those fiber plastic ones that I don’t have a lot of faith in.I bought a stiffer tranny mount too to help with the pitch when I downshift. I’m going to clean up the engine bay a little bit.Make a cool massive strut bar. In honest I’m not trying to make it super functional because I don’t really want to stiffen the ride too much I like it daily driver soft but I do want to use it as a mount for my Oil Catch Can and I’m going to add a Master cylinder brace so my brake pedal feels a little stiffer. I’m going to seal the holes in the engine bay and maybe make a cover for the ABS Pump that I can wrap in vinyl along with the fuse box so its prettier lol. I have an idea but I need to decide if I’m going to do it once my interior trim is done. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsjcnaxsco.jpg Got the headers in from Raptor Tuning in Australia and they look really nice.I probably could have made something pretty similar but these were proven and save me a lot of fab time. Also my header is only a 2 piece design but they include a set of mild and stainless steel flanges so you can fab your own y-pipe which is awesome (especially if you’re doing a custom Turbo and you need customize something. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpswxadqy8x.jpg So I got these, they are from a 350z and thy are pretty nice with the small resonators that look like Cats in case a cop tries to give me shit. I have some used 2.5” stainless I will use to lengthen them to fit. I’ll be making a jig of the stock header so I can mount the Raptor collectors and then fab my y-pipe. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsfzjqdafw.jpg Lastly I was going to wait to start my Manifold fab till once I got my flanges but they aren’t done and I want to keep moving forward to I made some dummy flanges and finished cutting all the intake runners and tacked them in place. They are all the same length and because the engine runners are offset they are not symmetrical but given how big the plenum will be I don’t think I’m going to have an issue this will definitely be an upgrade over the stock Manifold and looks really cool so far. I was going to finish setting the runners but when I tried to install the P/S pump I found out the brackets are not the same so I will order one from Subaru today and prey they share at least the same P/S pump. I will do a full write-up of what I learn when I’m don’t for people looking to swap EZ36s into their EZ30Rs its annoying to be the first to try shit cuz its always 2 steps forward and 1 back… lol http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zps9fw8bkgt.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpslaefqxhq.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpskgcrnibh.jpg I’m hoping to have the info I need to finish the long-block in the next day or 2 s I can get that done and keep making progress. I will be gone the next 2 weekends biking so that gives me 3 more weekends till my b-day when I was hoping to be finished. I’m going to try and work during the week if I have time I will start with pulling the interior trim and wrapping it. Also on a side note I did go biking this weekend and got a killer pic and I just feel like sharing it… http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrkqrtnse.jpg lol and if any of you are interested over the winter when I was MIA I really stepped up my drawing game so if you guy are interested I can share that too but since it’s not car related I refrain from posting…

No that's not me. That's my Seattle clone we chat on the MR2 Forums. Our cars are very similar but mine is purple, it has flush mount headlights, carbon canards, roof spoiler, custom taillights, 350 diffusor, and carbon side scoop add-ons. I'm pretty sure his is turboed and my swap isn't finished and he had good paint. Out of the 2, his is the better car... For now... There are big plans for mine this winter... lol.

I found another buddy with access to alldata that said he would help. I think I was one of those 5th gen orders. I got them yesterday and they look amazing.

Got me some parts today in the male but I'm still waiting for some info before I can reassemble my long block and install it. If any of you know where I can find: the torque sequence for the heads The timing points to reinstall the timing assy Wiring disgram for the engine harness of both the ez30r and ez36d I would be greatly in your debt. My contact that said he would get me all this stuff in a couple days (which was a week ago) is a flake... Kinda dead in the water till my flanges for my intake manifold and this info get to me... I'll post some pics of the goodies later though

Does anyone have a link to engine specs? I need the torque sequence the the head studs. The points to set the gears to time the engine and wiring schematics of both the ez30r and ez36d would be amazing. Really need some help I have no where to look and the guy that said he get them for me is a bit of a flake...

I have looked into the logistics of doing a manual conversion and I have it pretty well figured out but I'm not sure if I want to convert my car. I have thought about it a lot while driving in it and there are times when I wish my car was a stick. Twisty roads and auto cross etc but with the flappy paddle 5-speed it probably isn't any slower.. however, the times when I am thankful it is an auto. Traffic, after work, on dates... Its way more beneficial that it is an auto. If my tranny blows I will convert, but to spend the money to buy the components I need to do it (especially when I have an MR2 that is a manual) I find it hard to justify. I bet it would increase the value of my car thought. A 3.6L Lego 5mt with EXO x Brembos, flared, and fully loaded... mmmmm sounds good on paper haha.

That's cuz nobody knows, or makes anything for the H6 engines. Uncharted territory is where I thrive, cuz nobody can tell me when I'm screwing up and I like that... haha

Hey yall. So with the brakes done I did a shake down last couple weeks and the car has been working great.Did an Auto X in the lego and it did surprisingly well given its on wide, but all-season tires. During that time I finished the engine I was working on for a friend and last week it left my shop freeing up time and space for me to do the next phase of Lego modifications. Power time! So a little over a month ago I promised the EZ30 in my Lego to a buddy in return for body and paint work on some of my other cars. This freed up the money I was saving for that to pick up a new heart for the Lego. Ended up with an EZ36 from a 2013 Legacy with only 22k on it.So this weekend I jacked up the Lego and got started. Everything came out pretty easy (for the most part) http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsc3r46z0l.jpg With the EZ30 out I could compare the 2 engines and though they are similar, they are very different.The 36 has a 3 chain drive whereas the 30 as only 2 chains. Looking at the harnesses my initial idea of it being a pretty easy swap soon floated away, but it looks like both engines share all the same components so my buddy its getting me the wiring diagrams so I can verify if I can make a hybrid harness to fit the Lego. I pushed on with good faith I can get this swap to work so I cleaned and painted the longblock a gunmetal grey color. The next day I pulled a head off to check the cylinder bore and it looks cherry but I just wanted to be sure.While I had the engine apart I Painted the Timing and Valve covers. I also order a bulk of those purple countersunk fender washers and then went to the hardware store and got a stainless assortment of bolts I needed to swap the timing and valve covers with them. I guess we will see if the anodizing lasts with the heat but for now the engine looks great. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsk4mtgube.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zps9ilvlzm1.jpg Next it was time to work on the performance mods. I figure while I’m waiting for the wiring diagrams before I decided to drop the 36 in I could start the fab on my Header, Exhaust, Intake Manifold, and Intake since these parts will work on either the 30 or the 36. I ordered some stainless tight bend 2.25” pipe and some 50mm billet motorcycle velocity stacks. I first made a small jig to set my limits for the manifold and locate the throttle body. I moved the throttle body back about 2” and angled it a little flatter over the stock manifold design to get more volume. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpso1qpjxhr.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpshqmlrdxv.jpg Next I cut the pipes to roughly start the fab. I cut 6 pieces of strait pipe all to same length and then notched them at the bottom. Once I crushed them with the vice and hammer to match the port shape they were ready to be the first start. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsnbrmrnzm.jpg Next I looked at how I wanted the runners to look.I wanted them all to be the same length and at the same angle so equalize them and hopefully increase efficiency and power. I made a quick mockup of how each runner will look. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsoqjn0vph.jpg http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsvftsd2v4.jpg This is not going to be an ITB manifold I see no point the stock throttle body is not only drive-by-wire but 3” in diameter plenty big for the power this car will make. I will be encasing the pipes inside a large sheet metal surge tank with a 3/8” Lexan cover so you can see the badassery. LOLI will also be relocating the Battery to the trunk, sealing off the holes in the engine bay behind the headlights and making a custom dual 3” intake that will locate a filter behind each headlight, and then merge just before the throttle body with a 4” section of strait pipe where I have the MAF located. I also ordered a batch of steel ¼” NPT weld in bungs so I can make vacuum line ports wherever needed. For the header and exhaust I started with a full 2.5” stainless cat-back exhaust that’s actually for the newer 2010 Legos but I suspected that even though the body is different they would be pretty close underneath and I was right only a slight modification here and there and it fit like a glove. http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x223/badwagon/Lego%2030r/image_zpsrz4mq4bw.jpg The exhaust came with mufflers but I’m going to reuse the strait pipe ti tip muffler deletes I have been using. The cat-back has a good size resonator in it and the header I am making also has a 2 smaller resonators after each collector so we will see how loud it is but I doubt it will be much louder than it was before. For the header I bought some 350z stuff but while I was looking at modifying the collectors to work with my car I came to the conclusion that cheap eBay header I bought was just too shitty to use so I contacted raptor tuning in Australia who already make a proven collectors and ordered up a set. The collectors only go up to my first cats so I will be making a custom Y-pipe to finish off my exhaust without cats and O2 foolers. So next I will be making a jig off my stock header so I can locate the Raptor pieces and then make my Y-pipe continuation as a full 1 piece unit with a standard 3 bolt flange at the cat-back connection to avoid exhaust leaks I will have more pics this week of progress I’m hoping to have a fair amount of prep to the manifold and header done while I wait for my collectors and my flanges for the manifold to get cut.Once I have the harness info I need I can modify the harness and go ahead with installing the EZ36 into the Lego. I have some modifications to the interior as well to do. Lastly, I also balled out on a bunch of dress-up goodies to pretty the engine bay so it looks as good as the outside… lol I have a few more other things I will be doing but I’ll post more pics as progress is made. Johann