monkeyposeur

Yeah, thanks. I read up on how to convert to 134a, but I am busy right now and if I can get the dealership to charge the r12 then I will be happy. If it doesn't work, then I will just have to convert.

I tried to buy an ac charger kit at the parts store. Turns out my 93 is r-12 not 134A so I can't do it myself. I'll have to take it to the dealer. They quoted me $100 + freon.

I thought that you could just swap in a rear sway on your leggy even if it didn't come stock. Aren't there any bolt holes where the tabs go?

 

94BC, do you have the stock 22E engine? I know a lot of people do the coffee cup mod on 22Ts. I don't see a hood scoop. Pics!

She does look nice. What roof rack do you have on there? I like it.

I've heard of people just buying a piece of PVC pipe that is the correct diameter. Also, one guy said that he used a garbage disposal flange to do the same thing. When I replaced mine I took the shortblock down to Subaru and had them do it for me. There was one teeny spot where it didn't look seated as deep as the rest and the tech just took a 1/4 drive extension and tapped it in.

I drove the SS around town since it needed gas so I offered to fill it up. I am still getting some funky misfiring problem on the passenger side until it warms up. Damn it!

 

I am pretty sure the driver side cam seal is leaking now. I just replaced it! I don't feel like tearing into it right now so I will just keep adding oil. It is losing about 3/4 quart a week at this rate along with the crack in the oil pan.

 

But I'll be done painting the second gen leggy next week and then I will have some time to devote to the SS.

Yeah, the rubber thing has been called a harmonic dampener, but even Subaru says that is isn't actually a harmonic dampener, or at least function as one. The consensus is that it made for a cheaper manufacturing process. You can find threads where people argue for days about it, lol. If it really was necessary then fancy LCPs would have to have them.

Lol, I remember that bracket install. I'm the same way too. You should have seen me two days before I finished the SS rebuild.

Did you use some long needle nose pliers to attach your replacement hose to the vacuum line that is underneath the intake mani?

I am throwing the code for the evap purge control valve. From what I have read it doesn't affect the performance of the car, but I will still get around to replacing mine soon. Unfortunately on the turbo leggies the evap valve is underneath the intake manifold so it is a bitch to get at unless you remove the intake mani. However sqc151 just moved his to the top of his for better access. I have a spare one I grabbed of a junk leggy, a new OEM replacement from Subaru is about $120. I wonder if the Geo tracker valves are cheaper.

 

edit: Looks like you made the master cylinder brace, right? A Grimmspeed brace will run you about $100. If you made it, do you feel like making some cheap ones for us? I need a couple.

I love my swivel head ratchet for that same reason (among others) Texas. It came in handy on the SS.

I picked up three OEM PCV lines from the dealership.

 

I used heater hose as temporary replacements. The hose that goes to the PCV valve hovever, is such a tight bent that it kinks. I put a hose clamp on there to keep it from collapsing so I will be glad to get the galvanized hose on there.

 

I am still chasing a strange hesitation/misfire/compression issue that happens only when the car is cold. I'll start the SS and try to accelerate, but the transmission won't shift into a higher gear and there is this pop pop sound from the passenger side. After a minute or two it goes away and everything works as it should. I was talking to a knowledgeable guy at the parts dept. at my favorite dealership and he thinks (theoretically) that it may be some sensor/ecu program that when the engine is cold detects the fuel mixture and compensates for a lean or rich composition resulting in my problem. Strange how it goes away. I had a few theories of my own, but I don't think that mine are valid at this point.

I swapped in the good coaxials that were sitting in the back to the front, and put the stockers in the back.

 

I also installed some 96 OB stocker tweeters in the front. They fit allright it you clip a few of the tabs. Sounds awesome. The wife was complaining that the sound system wasn't sounding great with certain types of music. Now she is singing praises, lol.

Hey, this guy was able to do it on his OB w/o removing the engine (from beergarage.com): http://beergarage.com/SubyOilPan.aspx

 

One problem is getting the motor mounts to clear the crossmember. I dropped my engine back in, had almost everything hooked back up and got on the creeper to bolt the engine mounts. I looked around and was like "where are the motor mount bolts?" I forgot to put them back on the block!

 

First I tried to jack up then trans so I could get them in. Not enough space though. So I hooked the engine hoist back up and pulled the engine up as much as I could without pulling the car off the ground. With some swearing and extensions I was able to get the motor mounts back on. I was thinking how I would never want to swap in new mounts and never wanted to be in that spot again. Hmmm... I'll try the JB weld first. I'll drain the oil, wait a bit, clean the area around the crack, sand it, apply JBweld, and see what happens. If it gets the leak down to a teeny drip I'll be happy since most subies leak a lot more oil than my spotless 22T.

Thanks! We'll see how the Premium gets her going.

I replaced the crush washer on my oil plug. I had it backwards. The leak lessened but I realized that the PO had bashed the plug and it crinkled the pan and made a small crack. JB weld? I can get a replacement pan at the bone yard, but it looks like a pita to replace while the engine is in.

 

Also I fixed the exhaust leak where the down pipe meets the mid pipe. I had some old gasket crud on the flange and chipped it off. No more leak, and I finally passed safety and emissions! She's totally legal now!

Good to know. There are plenty of passenger side ones at the yard.

The SS is smooth.

 

edit: I installed a salvaged driver's side visor that stays up!

They'll fit just fine. Please change your font, it makes my eyes hurt.

 

Outback struts will make your car sit higher, but not dangerously and uselessly so. You can fit 15" tires easy on your stock suspension.

Same here! I just raided a nice 99 OB for the complete interior for $100 for my second gen. It feels like a brand new car!

I replaced the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold and my 'shifting problem' has gone away completely and I have lots of power and boost.

 

The broken line was causing some kind of misfire or explosion that felt to me like the transmission was clunking, and it wasn't shifting like it should. Last night I was revving the engine and heard a whistle and fond the broken line. I broke the end off and put it back on and it ran fine. I drove it this morning and the old line split and the problem came back of course so I just replaced it in about two minutes.

 

I also hooked up two 12" subs in the trunk and she is bumpin' like a m*&%^%$#@r.

What are stock on an SS? The SS brakes are way beyond my L brakes. The L brakes suck really bad. I love the stopping power on the SS.

Got the SS a temporary registration so I could drive it as much as I want for two weeks and she's insured. The good news is that as long as I keep it in manual mode I don't hear that clunking sound. I am now throwing the CEL code for the neutral safety switch, which could be the cause of the transmission clunking. Perhaps the neutral switch is coming on?

 

I tightened the new exhaust spring bolts up but I can still see water dripping out of the gasket. I must not have a good seal and maybe I am losing a bit of compression because of that? IDK. I'll replace it again or go to a muffler shop and see what they can do. That is the only thing keeping me from getting my safety.

 

But I rallied the SS all around town today! She starts out a bit slow in first, but then picks up, and REALLY picks up around 30-40 mph. Woo hoo! Corners like a beast too! Way stiffer than my second gen wagon, lol. I better be careful with this gal or I will get myself in some trouble.

 

The brakes are really nice too. Stopping power is really good and fast with a pretty stiff pedal feel. The sound system is really nice and will be even better when I hook up the two 12" subs in the trunk.

 

Still throwing CEL code 35 but I know what that is, evap purge valve, and I pulled off a used one from my junk SS wagon so I'll swap them over. I am getting another code but I don't remember what it is specifically at the moment. A fuel something or other. So still a few bugs to work out but hey, she is running like a champ. My PCV line is pinched because I used a straight piece of hose and bent it to fit. I'll get the real OEM piece soon.

 

Yay! I did it! I was a total noob but I did it anyway. I'm not saying it's perfect, but still.

 

I gave it to the wifey this evening and she loves it!

I tried to get the SS to pass safety today but she was rejected because of a bad ball joint and a supposed exhaust leak at the exhaust gasket that connects the downpipe to the long exhaust pipe. I just replaced that gasket. The guy told me to tighten it up as much as I could. I tried that and broke a spring bolt. Tomorrow I'll get new spring bolts.

 

Then I was replacing the ball joint. I had to get a ball joint separator to do so. Then while jacking up the suspension the jack came loose and the suspension sprang down which resulted in the spindle getting pulled out of the transmission. I reinstalled the spindle and then installed the new ball joint.

 

Now the transmission is shifting funny. It seemed to get better the longer I drove it, but I could only drive it a few blocks since it isn't registered and I don't want a ticket.

I followed your write up and adjusted my second gen JDMs w/USDM light conversion mod tonight.

 

Thanks bro! Driving home was a pleasure.