gimpydingo

It doesn't really seem to mate up well with the manifold. I got it from Import Image Racing, so hope they'll take it back.

Here is what I followed https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/up-pipe-installation-instructions-171933.html I event went back and used a knife to flair the gasket, I tried 2 gaskets. Nothing is working. Really don't want to buy another UP and gasket. Money, money, moneeeeeeeeeeeyyyyyy.

I guess I should have avoided the Invidia UP. I cannot get the UP to Manifold gasket to seal. I've followed up M Spranks instructions a few times now and no go. :mad::mad::mad::mad::spin::spin:

Random (read:dumb) question. I have a 5EAT LGT and from a stop it's a wee laggy until I hit that boost. Mine idles around the standard 700 RPM's give or take. If the idle was brought up to let's say 1000 RPM's in S# would that reduce the initial lag? Considering in a manual you are revving to 1500+ before letting the clutch out. As I said dumb question, but curious.

Ouch. How bad? Time to drop the oil pan and check for glitter. Sorry man that's shitty. Makes me think twice about complaining about an exhaust leak.

Invidia on the way...

Just a DP and tune. It's a 5EAT so keeping it simple. I may be interested depending on miles and $$.

Always something. Got everything back together and now there is definitely a leak in my UP. I think I must have added to a slight crack it had, time to replace. Recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

It's both the UP and DP gaskets leaking. I ordered some OEM.

I'll have to tear into for the UP. I find it odd it would just develop a leak when haven't touched it. I tried to capture the sound, not that amazing over a phone. 2nd vid is quite a bit longer.

For my 3.6 I went with the Centric Rotors and Hawk pads. It's been a good combo.

I got a brush for my drill, cleaned everything, light sanding. Overall everything is smooth. To add to this I took it out for a drive and guess I only finger tightened the downpipe to mainfold bolts. So those opened a bit and car started making the rumble. I limped it home and found my mistake. I got it all buttoned up, checked everything, soaped up the gaskets, even the DP to CBE (OEM) donut/gasket, no leaks. BUT now the car is much louder than it was previously. Sounding more like a truck, which seems to be coming from where the turbo/downpipe meet. If a blip the gas it gets a bit of a backfire/burble sound. I ran RR and pulled a LV. Idle's fine, no misfires. LV shows +4 in A, while B, C, D are 0. My previously leaky LV showed -5 in, while B, C, D were around -1 to -2. So things have shifted a bit. The +4 would be pre turbo right? vac lines and such? I was thinking maybe a crack in the flex of the uppipe (OEM), but that doesn't seem right. With one fix comes two more problems. AMIRIGHT?

Thanks. I'll give the red a try the way you suggest!

I've been battling exhaust leaks for quite a while now. Once I get everything sealed it's only a matter of time before I get leaks again at the manifold/crossover pipe. It's always the passenger side. I have used the Grimm thicker gaskets and the copper spray gasket and issue still pops up. Any suggestions? I've gone through all the posts regarding this and I cannot get it to seal. :spin:

I would pull the brakes/calipers and check for a stuck pin and re-grease. Otherwise axle? Differential?

My 2013 3.6 5EAT has around 56k miles on it. I have noticed when reversing from my driveway without accelerating I get a slight rubbing or braking feeling in the rear of the car. It happens only at one point when the tires make a full rotation, lets just say when the tire stem hits 12 o clock it "rubs". So as the tire rotates to "12" you get a light rub/slowing feeling. So the timing is consistent. Fluids look good, rear diff is full, same with tranny. I can always drain and refill. I did change my brakes/rotors a few months back. I did pull the brakes/calipers and inspected for any rocks that might have wedge into the braking system or anything loose. I probably should have pulled the rotors as well. I am wondering if the park brake needs a slight adjustment? Any other thoughts?

Cleaned off some grease from my rear diff on my '13 3.6. I learned the diff bushings are grease packed. Glad it's a bushing and not my diff leaking.

Well that's a first! Thanks for the info. I assume that must be it based on the location and color of the fluid. Seems that is it! https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-2014/420986-fluid-filled-rear-diff-bushing.html Thank you so much!!

This is odd. I cleaned it up, can't find the source. I popped the diff fill bolt and bit of golden honey fluid came out, smell and all. So it doesn't seem to be from the diff. I guess I'll have my wife drive it tomorrow and check when she gets home.

Yeah I plan on cleaning it up tomorrow and getting a better look. Odd there is no smell, not old oil or diff. I'll post back.

I noticed a drop of dark liquid on the floor of my garage yesterday and another today when my wife left for work. It looks as though my rear diff is leaking. I felt the top and also used a mirror to check if it was the breather hose was the culprit, but the top of the diff is dry. The fluid doesn't smell, but the texture and color does lead me to believe it's diff fluid. It seems to be contained on the drivers side of the diff, the diff mount is filled/covered in fluid. I can see there is discoloration on the diff where their has been fluid on it. I did notice the passenger side rear axle boot and where it goes into the tranny is caked with old road grime and prob diff fluid, not sure why that side wouldn't be wet too. Thoughts? I can always take more pics.

After I had my tired rotated the ABS light came on about a mile after driving the car. There was also a slight squeak when I turned the car. Took calipers apart, cleaned everything, put it back, and all was good.

I had pm'd you, but check for any leaks. Once I got mine buttoned up and stg 2 tune it's much better. Still does it on occasion, but far better than it was. The odd thing is my 2013 5EAT 3.6 does not do this. So could be a sensor issue. Subaru told me is was working as intended and if the car gets more power than expected it's that was to protect the tranny. I took that info with a grain of salt.

Are you making over 350 WHP? If not no reason for an intake, stick to stock. That being said I have seen others post the same thing about the Cobb intake. You can talk to one of the tuners on this site to get a custom tune for the intake if you plan on keeping it.

I need to do this on my '13. I've seen other people saying to (after ATF warm) WOT and row through the gears. Anyone actually do this?