Rhitter

I haven't had issues with OEM downpipe + GS intercooler + tune + non stock headers / upipe. But, my up-pipe isn't supposed to have a cat in so I bet they don't look too hard.

Here is the starting point for your Cobb intake.

https://www.cobbtuning.com/cobb-tuning-sf-intake-system-carb-approved/

Very easily the answer could be not a lot. You might just need a new clamp and tube.

Or because it's a Subaru - very worried .

For sure, warrants more investigation (i.e. how are you coolant levels, does it pour out when driving, when you start the car, how quick is the leak, is it a seep, etc etc)

It bothers me too, but I thought Dead.Mr's cut and welded was the only way to fix. LGT Sedans don't also do this? Or do it much less?

My hope was, I am not that much lower than a normal legacy. If I switch to their part maybe it will center the wheel.

Of course it might be removing all the rear subframe spacers that would do that. But, trying to think through / figure out what else in the Legacy could effect it.

On my mind lately, the unevenness of the rear wheel is starting to bother me a lot. Vaguely thinking through what it would take to center it.

Replacing them will align the rear trailing arm closer to the body, but no clue what effect that will have on the wheel spacing.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6579.jpg

Dead.Mr custom made rear trailing arm brackets to get the rear wheel to line up right. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4704647&postcount=6

trying to figure out, but mentally not having any luck with the changes, if just moving to a LGT rear trailing arm would have the same effect.

It looks like a bitch of an install.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-without-removing-knuckles-270233.html

This is the only thread I can find referencing that changing out the Rear trailing arm brackets will center the wheel (sort of makes sense, going to legacy height, use a legacy part)

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4973653&postcount=196

And then me parroting that at the end of that thread. But, n actual pictures showing the change.

The parts are cheap enough. The time required to do it....not so much.

R160 is the rear diff. The r160 is what you already have in your car. The 6mt one is probably exactly the same, just a different final drive.

Pretty sure my r160 even has an lsd.

Unsure if any of your cars have it. It might be a cold weather package addition.

The r180s are significantly more robust and require axles that cost $700 each and are basically impossible to find used. If you are drag racing / endurance road racing the r180s make a lot of sense.

At our power levels, probably not so much.

It's in here if you haven't seen it already.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%2520ID%2520Chart_Public.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiYksrB-5HfAhV4IzQIHSeiA3UQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3C_C9vtK-aC_CpyTFE-n7a

It looks like it's a "better" 6mt, but it used an r160 stock. 3.9fd

If it holds up to all the shit they do with supergramps it must be as good as any other real 6mt. Although I know he has broken at least one axle launching.

Rhitter, how to you like the Smash? is it hard to pedal? I'm starting to consider replacing my Mach 5.5 with one. GG seems like an awesome company and they are just a few miles from my house.

Honestly love it. It pedals super well. I got it in July, and have gone on a couple 30 mile 4k elevation gained trips and it handles it really really well. It's just an amazing bike overall. Basically as capable as my old VP free, but in a much more convenient package.

Pinkbike has a really good article about

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review-guerrilla-gravity-smash.html

Alternator is oem. So 145k +10 years in it.

Using BtSsm, haven't checked voltage.

The battery is probably still OK. My guess is a slow drain. How long did the car stay parked?

It had been a long time. 6 weeks since I drove it any distance. Probably 6ish 3 to 5 min trips. In the last 12 days I moved it from the street to the driveway.

So easily could be a slow drain or maybe my alternator isn't able to charge it during a bunch of short trips.

Yeah. Sounds like low battery to me and/or poor connection at the battery terminals. Do you have a voltmeter? If voltage is around 12.35V, then next step is make sure the connections are good.

Yep, just low battery. Jumped it and it started fine. The battery isn't that old. Although I don't think it's that old, maybe 5 years. Autozone Duralast Gold.

Holy Sheep!

Let us know how the fix goes.

 

And for the record, lil'redwagon and I are ~40 miles apart, lol. That's like 2 days in LA traffic...

Samsies -in bay area traffic. San Jose might as well be a different state.

Went to start my car today and it sounded like this -

Is that just a frozen starter? do I need to pull it out grease or whatever (according the starter motor thread)

I can confirm that the OBXT u joint works unmodified with the STI rack.

The Perrin lock down is really nice though.

Rhitter can you elaborate how the the camber arms will fix this? i have been looking at going an inch below legacy height on 235/45/18, but i do occasionally tow a motorcycle trailer, or put a bunch of camping gear in the back. love the low look, but i don't want to ruin the main benefit of having a wagon in the first place.

I have too much rear camber. The camber bushings didn't allow me to dial it out enough. The whiteline control arms do. I no longer get inner fender rub.

Bought a new bike a few months ago. It's been taking all my spare money and time. The bike company had a Moab camping weekend. Drove 14 hours to bike in Moab for the first time. Scenery out there is insane.

Capt Ahab

Slickrock practice trail

Gold bar trail

My Outback didn't go with me on this trip.