eckseleven

Also depends on how many sunny days you typically get in a year and how directly the panels point towards the sun (adjustable angle is nice, too). Mounting on a roof, you don't really have much of a choice sometimes.

I don't know what company he is leasing from, but I know they will pay back the difference if the system doesn't pay itself off by the end of the lease term. He has admitted it's something he is doing to be green, not save money.

Coworker is leasing solar panels. We've run the numbers and after 15 years he might break even...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Would be great to get some videos of this ripping down the road

Also, any plans to go to the strip? Would be nice to see some slips to back up the dyno numbers.

I'd rather deal with the cause (water getting in through wall) than dealing with the symptoms (water on the floor).

Understandable, and this is the best thing you can do. Regrading the outside, sealing the exterior wall, adding draining lines along the exterior, etc. are how you would accomplish this though. That's pricey and isn't always an option hence why most people don't do it. I couldn't do those things so I went the french drain route.

Have you tried to identify the source on the exterior? Sometimes rerouting a downspout is all it takes to keep the water from getting inside. Patios, driveways, or sidewalks that are slopped towards the foundation can also be the culprit.

I had water seeping (running) down the wall during a really heavy rainfall a couple weeks back. DryLok or something of the sort could fix that. Digging up and tarring the block on the outside or some other method like that isn't in the cards right now. I don't have a sump pump either so using one of those systems won't work either.

DryLoc over a seeping wall is most definitely not a good idea. Not only will it not bond well, all it is going to do is hold water in the wall leading to foundation deterioration and potentially shifting during freezing since the water can't drain (not sure where you are located though). On top of that, the water will eventually find a way back in.

Basements are a pain. I'm currently finishing mine and have done a ton of research. While opinions about vapor barriers, insulation, flooring, etc. can vary, one thing everyone seems to agree on is that painting the walls with anything should only be considered "just for looks" and is not a solution for a water problem. I don't recall if you said you were going to finish it, but if you are, you wouldn't want to have all your hard work go to waste if you got a decent amount of rain. I had less than a quarter of an inch of water in my basement last year and it ruined everything that was finished.

DryLok, bro.

Only good for very minor moisture problems. It will destroy foundations otherwise. Hydrostatic pressure needs to be relieved somehow.

According to the EFI logics database, stock LGTs were running 0-60 in the low 5 sec. range in magazine tests. Stage 1 LGTs did 0-60 in the high 4 sec. with 260whp. So if your numbers are correct, you should easily be able to hang with a stage 1 LGT, no problem.

We would need some legitimate quarter mile times to know for sure. Comparing numbers from different dynos (or android apps ) won't get us anywhere unfortunately. I personally am doubtful a bolt on and tuned 3.6 will keep up with a tuned GT. It may be able to get within 10-20 peak hp, but it will never have the broad power curve without bottle feeding or FI. Additionally, you have some weight and gearing differences that will impact acceleration. Certainly not 3.6 bashing here, just keeping things in perspective. I like what I see so far but would love to see some 1/4 mile slips. Can't wait to see what supercharging does.

Old guy: "That's Subaru? That looks nice! I thought they only made wagons!"

Thinking to myself: I wish it was a wagon

Where are you based out of? Sounds like people come from all over to get innovative work done. I had them fix my blown turbo and do the timing.

Rome/Utica. The other guy may have been an out of towner though, never seen that car before.

Well it has now been a few days with the damper delete.....

Damn, I wish someone had spotted this simple mod sooner!

This is exactly how I have wanted the clutch to behave since I got the car. What is great about it is that there is no more uncertainty. It just does what you tell it to. In casual driving, upshifts are perfectly smooth and I can now execute flawless downshifts again. Quick shifts don't have that slipping clutch sensation anymore where your foot would be off the pedal but you could tell that it hadn't engaged fully. Moving from a stop is much more predictable.

I don't believe I've really had to alter my technique any. I just drive the car like normal now and relax. However, after 25k miles of uncertainty between gears, I still keep thinking I'm going to shift and be presented with a jerking/clunking sensation that wasn't my fault. That's the only thing I need to work on

The specifics of my install:

-Ordered connector part from dealer for about $37.

-Ground down one gusset with an angle grinder while the connector was in a vice.

-The damper came out really easy. Putting the new part in was a bit tricky as I had a tough time getting everything to line up right so the threads wouldn't get stripped. It's tight in there and hard to see.

-Used a vacuum bleeder to bleed the clutch. It worked so well I think I ended up changing all the fluid. New fluid (Pennzoil I think from Advance Auto) was lighter color so I could see a layer of old and new fluid in the vacuum reservoir.

It says "innovative tuning"

Yup.

oh no shit..... where was this located. I'm around the Buffalo/Batavia area.

Utica area. I found it funny because my car was tuned by Innovative and I came out of the store to see this parked next to me.

Funny seeing the asbestos tile talk...I just removed a bunch of tile this weekend. Not sure if that's what it was but they were 9x9 and had the ugly color patterns that you typically see. The majority of it came up fine in whole pieces. There were some that were a bit more stubborn though. I had the room closed, heating vents plugged, and a fan blowing out the window. I had a chemical mask on (not sure if rated for asbestos) and sprayed down the troublesome tiles with a foaming sanitizer that I use for my beer brewing equipment.

I had read that the amount of exposure that you would get from a small scale job (this room is only 100 sq/ft) isn't enough to cause any harm but it is good to play it safe anyway. It is primarily construction workers and factory workers from when the tiles were manufactured that need to worry.

Great thread. I hope to do this in the near future. The OEM quirks have made this nearly 15 year manual driver look like a total noob at times.

gteaser, I look forward to hearing your thoughts about the braided line. I'm up for anything that improves the clutch feel.

259whp/306wtq no upgraded IC, very conservative tune since I told them I wanted to place a very large emphasis on reliability over power.

I plan on driving this car until its dead.

Thanks. And is this with the stock cat back? Was there still a decent improvement in power and driveability over the stock tune? I requested an aggressive tune which I regret now. May be going back to Mike in coming months to dial it back.

After a good wash and a stage 2 protune

Looks great! How's the tune? Tuned by Innovative, right? You should post the results someplace. I'd like to compare to mine just for fun since they tuned mine.