joelwatts

if it doesn't, i have the engine still sitting here.

no they aren't really shorter. the rear might be. i have 05 wrx struts on mine and it didn't lower it any in the front but it did in the rear by about .5". thats what everyone is referring to when they say "saggy butt".

I'm told that the legacy ss rack is the fastest ratio you can get really. I'm looking for that one.

need more info than that. what parts are you planning on replacing? or are you needing someone to tell you what to replace?

Haha. Ok jac. I'll accept your request . Unless you post something retarded.

no one on my facebook really gives a shit about cars. all of my car friends are outside my fb circle. i need to change that. i feel a mass deletion coming on.

there is a certain amount of wizardry that goes into suspension setups and tuning. this is the formula that has always worked for me personally. take it if you like or rearrange it however best suits you. nothing can help like seat time. for dd and auto-x purposes only. (dirt is an entire different monster to tame) 1: find the tires you are going to use. absolutely first and foremost. tires are the only thing that contacts the road and are therefore the most important thing you will do to adjust the character of your driving. 2: find a spring rate that you can live with. i have a kind of crappy back and cant tolerate the super stiff suspension of most lowered cars. a friend of mine is a semi-pro driver who uses 10k springs all around. definately not for me. i prefer 7k up front and 6k in the back. this provides a good feel to me. (again that is just me) 3: (probably more important than springs but i put it third because my back is hurting) find a really good adjustable dampener. this is crucial to how a car behaves under braking, accelerating, and load transfer side to side, fore and aft. generally speaking, if you have coil overs, the dampeners will be adjustable. this is an easy adjustment you can make at the auto-x course to a known value that you have discovered works best for you and your set up. again, i like it softer because of my back. standing around at an auto-x and then driving some spine cracking car isn't exactly my idea of a pleasant day out with the car. dampening can mean the difference between a well behaved predictable car and one that acts like that shitty dog your neighbors have that jumps up and down and shits every where. 5: sway bars. i like for the bars to be almost as stiff in the rear as in the front. i prefer there to be little understeer and since i run a softer set up a stiffer rear bar will compensate for lateral load that i'm giving up from my struts. i really like for cars to oversteer out of the throttle and understeer on it. this keeps you from having to countersteer during a corner from a poor weight transition. and will let you steer more so w/ the weight of the car rather than wheel input. 6: this is actually right behind the tires but i'm putting it here because of usually you do this after each part install. ALIGNMENT. this is just as important as the tires them selves. we've all seen the crappy cambered cars that are too low and only have an inch of contact patch. many people will tell you that you should have as much camber as possible because it handles better. it does to a point but you better be able to do alignments on your own or you'll be repeating step one way to often. for me i don't like a lot of camber in the back or toe at all in the back because it will make the car very twitchy. ruining all that hard work you put in in purchasing quality components. up front 2.5 degrees of camber is plenty. with a shade of toe in you should be about bang on. some people will run up to 3.5 degrees of camber. i don't recommend it but do what is best for you. don't toe out in the front. you'll be back to buying tires again. 7: experiment, experiment, experiment. only adjust one thing at a time. and don't do drastic jumps in settings. you might hate have your rear bar set to soft and think, "well i just jump all the way up". but you have skipped the middle section wich could have been bang on. having more isnt always better. just try to see what works for you. and don't follow someone else's formula just because they are fast. it might be perfect for them but be horrendous for you. seat time is what will tell you whats right and whats wrong. and just because something doesn't work right now, 6 months from now your driving will be completely different and you might have to go back to something you disreguarded early as a flaw. again, i am not a pro driver at all. i am a technician and that is how i like my cars. technical and repeatable. feel free to use this how you want but it is by no means a bible for suspension tuning. if you want one, send me $500 and a case of killian's and ill write one.

the 5mt would work. and it would have a hydraulic clutch being a 97. also, the mark should be on the engine looking straight down at the top on the front of the engine. guarantee its an ej22. easy way to tell otherwise is if it is sohc, more than likely its a 22. 99 percent sure you'ld be able to tell if the engine had been swapped for something else and base model impreza's in 97 were only offered w/ 22's.

My car feels more like a really fat, really tired Natalie Portman.

Good shocks and springs. Pretty much fix a lot of your handling woes.

What are your Dampeners and spring rate please?

sti pinks and koni yellows make for a pretty potent set up. esp w/ group n top hats.

it is a factory spring sir.

Wrx springs will barely lower your car any of at all. The back will definitely be lower than the front. The spring rate isn't that much better than stock legacy gt suspension. A only marginally better than L suspension. Look into sti pinks if you want factory stuff that works well.

There is a quote function. It allows you to put people in there place and still remain lazy.

:popcorn:

that one would be a little better here. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/chuck-norris-98935.html?t=98935&highlight=chuck+norris

yeah sure. i believe they bolt right up.

You need a stack of washers for your control arm on each side. I don't remember what size but they are available at lowes. The legacy arms are a bit small for the wrx member.

i'm not sure but your exhaust should fit just fine w/ the wrx cross member. i don't think there is a problem but i havent come across anyone who has tried that. and the nice thing about the wrx x-member would be if you ever go to a turbo swap, you'll be one step closer.

Brakes should fit as far as I know. The rear sway bar will fit if you cut the trunk a little. The front won't fit w/o the cross member.

i was just at zmax dragway for a few auto-xes. car sounds awesome

anyone got a decent spring rate to go by? i'm thinking 7k all the way around bc my crummy back cant take any more.

subaru looses another one. http://i.usatoday.net/communitymanager/_photos/drive-on/2012/03/26/dartx-wide-community.jpg http://content.usatoday.com/communities/driveon/post/2012/03/dodge-to-go-rally-car-racing-with-dart-travis-pastrana/1

That's good to know. If I've gotten my swap done by then, I will definitely be out. If not. I will be in the wife's impreza. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=35.043819,-81.972818