BigTDogg MA

It's 6 of one, half dozen of the other. The exceeding of the thermal limits is caused by too much power over a given time period. Yes. If you repeatedly clip to the point where the peak (instantaneous) and average are the same, then too much instantaneous power (repeatedly) caused the failure. It's just an argument over semantics at this point, except those saying that underpowering a sub will lead to failure.

Should, it's the same exact one I have. Just throw the CD in the trash

Yeah, this was on a Win7 laptop. My only XP laptop is a 9" netbook. I installed 1.42, canceled the driver section, deleted the com cable, rebooted, directed it to the 2.08.14 drivers, and tried to connect; nothing. Learning View worked fine. I uninstalled 1.42 and installed 1.29a with the same driver package, no problem. I'll rehost ECUFlash 1.29a so people can find it. Took me a while to find a good link. This link should work, if not let me know and I'll edit it

Finally got a snapshot of my ROM from Ecuflash. Had to use 1.29a with the recommended drivers and everything worked first time. 1.42 did not work, no matter what I tried.

Yeah, pussyfooting around town to break in the new clutch. No higher than 3200RPM, no more than maybe 35-40% throttle (estimated) for fear of BOOM while driving untuned. It's my DD, so I need it to work

It's unheard of because I just reset it. Had to clear the bothersome P0420. Prior do doing so though, the only pull was in the far left column, row 2600-3200 at -1.05 This is what it looked like today before I reset the ECU: Any better?

Sooooo OK... Guess that's my next step... (need facepalm smiley) I was under the impression that just to read the ECU, even with ECUFlash, the green connectors were not needed. Apparently I was sorely mistaken. Now I just gotta wait for my Infamous tune and I can finally start to open this pig up. 90 miles left on clutch break-in.

Thanks for the heads up, saved me some headache! But I still have some serious issues with ECUFlash. I installed 1.42.2595 and I can't get it to work. Running Win7 Pro; I've deleted the port, reinstalled, tried running as Admin, tried running in XP mode, rebooted etc etc as directed in the other pages, still nothing. Screen shot of the action below: Does ECUFlash require the green connectors to be hooked up to connect at all? I can get LV and RR logger to connect and even reset the ECU without the green connectors, in the same session that ECUFlash won't work. I'm about to pull my hair out here, this is driving me nuts. Any help is greatly apprecaited.

So I just read through this whole thread. I may try ECUFlash 1.42 because I thought VAG-COM wasn't supported after 1.29, but I guess that's not the case? First I'll try the drivers that came on the CD with the cable. BTW, thanks for the help thusfar.

Haven't tried RR yet, can I write to my ECU with RR? I thought it was just an editing tool.

Yeah, I'll mess around with it some more. I ordered a STGII Infamous tune, so I don't need to do too much effing around with it on my end, I just need to be able to read and flash. I'll try uninstalling and reinstalling, then rebooting and rebooting, drinking, and regular booting, lol. I can get it to connect (and clear my P0420) with LV, but ECUFlash doesn't want to work right now.

I'm using 2.08.14 WHQL Certified drivers, I have not tried 2.08.17 (Beta) yet. Which I DLed from the link http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm on the first page of this thread. I don't have any access to older drivers.

Sell them and get some 04s. Sucks, but lesson learned

So I got LV to work, and ECUFlash 1.29a to recognize there is an ECU there, but got the same error as below when I tried to connect Followed by a :fail: pop up... So what was your solution? Can I write to the ECU with something besides ECUFlash? I log with RR right? And then use LV to pull stored knock corrections?

Aaight, so I can't even connect with the green connectors disconnected. I set my bit rate etc and drivers should be all good based on what I DL'ed. I should have connected them and tried again, but I ran out of lunch break. And WTF is "learning view"? I have ECU Flash and RR installed. EDIT: reading http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2148483&postcount=79 this post now and think I need to do that shizzle. You should definitely be able to read without the green connectors connected, like AutoZone etc do with their OBDII readers. I'm n00bing this up EDIT EDIT: I found learning view...

Werd, I think I'm starting to figure this ish out. I've been driving around for a day on the stock map with my UP and DP installed. But I haven't gone above 3K RPM because I'm also breaking in the clutch. Also need to reinforce my IC before the break-in is done. Clearing a CEL would be considered writing to the ECU right?

So correct me if I'm wrong, but the only thing I need to have the green diagnostic connectors hooked up for is if I'm flashing the ECU right? Otherwise I can read from it just having it hooked up to the OBDII port, yes?

Lots of bickering here, some good information, some not so good. Oh, and BTW, the TMIC on the Z06 is a Bell core which measures 24"x6"x12" and flows enough for 2100HP, but only if you're driving on the moon for the reduced gravity No? FunnyFail? The whole TMIC idea baffles me. I get it Subaru, a hood scoop is "cool" but that is the shittiest place to put an IC of any type. Heat rises, and placing the TMIC near the turbo and dowpipe and hot engine is stupid. Of course heatsoak will be an issue with this location. I'll say this though: Heatsoaked situations aside, pretty much any bar and plate TMIC will out-flow and out-cool the stocker. The larger the ∆T the better. The smaller the ∆P the better. I don't really understand what is so hard to grasp about this? The IC is a resistor to flow. The lower the ∆P the better it flows, the more power you will make. The larger the ∆T the cooler your intake temps, the more power you will make. Because the inlet temp to the IC will be constant, the IC that has a larger differential is the better IC from a thermal standpoint. Without measuring pressure and temperature before and after the IC, nothing can be proved about which is a better IC. But in my experiences on other turbo powertrains, there is no chance an aftermarket IC won't flow and cool better than the stock application it is intended to replace. Period, nothing else to it. If you spend time in bumper to bumper traffic or multiple stop lights, then your aftermarket IC will heat soak, and eventually, so will your stocker. I don't have any data on that, but in theory it makes sense, because the OEM IC is smaller and has thermoplastic endtanks, which don't conduct heat like AL does. Oh, and data isn't for people who can't think; it's for people who DO think. Engineers and scientists, you know? Mr. Empirical Data hands Mr. Theory his ass, 10 out of 10 times in the real world. For me, personally since I won't be going higher than Stage 2, I'm doing the BPTMIC mod. I can't afford the cost of an aftermarket TMIC on my DD, and as long as the stocker doesn't blow apart, I can't justify the need for it, to myself. I'll probably only hit full boost twice ever, I just want to be tuned for when I do. Eventually, if/when I rebuild the engine and get a bigger turbo, I'll get a FMIC, because as I stated, the TMIC is stupid.

Thanks, so given my 106K mile OEM bushings are ripped, simply installing new STI or Groupe N bushings would help significantly with the lift and dive I'm currently experiencing. That and replacing my POS struts as well.

So are the LCA bushings and an Anti-Lift Kit the same thing, or mutually exclusive? My rear LCA bushings are torn, so I'd like to replace them. I'm thinking STI (front and rear) after reading this whole thread, but I'm still confused on what the ALK does/where it goes.

false!

But it does. When an amp can't produce the requested power cleanly, it clips, and provides too much instantaneous power. Lots of bickering to say the same things, and going crazy over semantics... jeez

Spotted a ABP LGT sedan on Storrow drive and a Brown/Taupe color LGT sedan on 395 in CT today. I was in my black 300ZX

ABP Sedan on 93S in Somerville this morning, you on here?

Agreed Agreed Disagree. Replace with Minivan and women driving gigantic SUVs and I'd agree. Have you forgot about the V70R? Don't know what that means. They should, they would make more money than ticketing people for going 10 over in a 65mph zone. This incident last summer I would have shot some tires out had I had my gun in my car. I don't subscribe to the "masshole philosophy" that it's "cool" not to use your signal. It's right there on the ******* steering column, use the goddamn thing. I'd much rather PIT someone than let them cut me off sans signal.