BigTDogg MA

Is there a solution for the DS?

Oh she was on a Dynapack, NM. They should join the Mustang dynos as heartbreakers if you're looking for numbahs.

But you're well over 3XX in the BHP department. Run meth and see your numbers climb I don't care about numbers, as long as it's good safe tune. Only numbers I would be concerned about would be 0-60 and 60-0. Everything else for my application is meaningless.

fine, i'm being a pussy, you happy fahr_side?!?!?!?!?!?!?

^^^LOL Yeah, I'm being conservative. I'm not going to tell my tuner how to tune, but I will emphasize that I want a clean, safe tune even if it means lower boost than the max possible. Plus, given the age of the car I want to take it easy. My compression and leakdown numbers were fantastic according to my mechanic, but I still don't want to push it. This is my DD, not a project, so I can't afford engine pull downtime.

Thanks guys. My engine has 141K on it now, so I'm not going to be maxing out my stock fuel system and pushing this bitch too hard. My DP is catted, and I really don't plan on running more boost than I could get away with 85% duty cycle or so on my stock injectors.

I appreciate the heads up, but I don't do ghetto on any of my cars. Regarding fuel and boost creep. Would a 3-port EBCS help with that? I'm running a Cobb downpipe (bellmouth) so I wouldn't anticipate that causing any creep issues. Typically I've seen creep more with divorced style downpipes. So the interference is with the motor outside the TGV which actuates them? Does the delete improve MPG or is strictly a performance oriented improvement? You'd think more flow = less resistance and better MPG (like UP and DP), but what was the purpose of the TGVs in the first place, fuel economy right?

I'll see if he can leave them in. I don't want to buy deletes if I don't HAVE to. I didn't want to replace the turbo either, but I'm not wagering my engine.

AWHP? I assume a roller dyno or is this a Mustang style? I found this thread searching for info/opinions on the combination of a VF52 and TGV deletes. The purpose of the TGV is to more evenly mix air and fuel for better MPG, is that right? So deleting them is strictly for performance reasons? My mech said that "the vf52 typically comes very close to the rear TGV" so I assume it's a tight fit? If they don't fail, and actually give better MPG, then I'm probably going to leave them be. Thoughts?

Wow, that's impressive

Contact SVXdc. He'll get you all you need. http://ae64.com/Ordering.htm

Everything you need to know is here: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I kid, I kid. Was that Burkart guy banned? Where did his posts go? I'd like a source for the rubber tape he used.

Spotted Dujo's wagon at Motive Auto on Saturday (mod bug bit you hard huh? LOL) Spotted FirePuma and BMX, along with their cars at the same time. Puma the wagon sounds great.

Thanks yo, that was me! I figured it was you, your car looks good as well! To answer your other question about the fogs, I did it the same time I did the DRL disable: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2117 So while I was in there, I decided to do this: http://www.moojohn.com/subaru/fogmod.html Which I found in this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/100-independent-foglight-mod-no-wire-cutting-splicing-method-35066.html From this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/compilation-cheap-and-free-legacy-mods-84688.html I've got a bunch more to do on that list, but there's some great stuff in there!

Hold on, let me get my binoculars

Not anymore he doesn't OHHHHH

Now you're thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!! Wish I had thought of those before I hacked up my cover. No biggie, but yes, I think those would be the best way to go for a low profile mount.

Countersinking into material that thin is less than ideal. I've found metric BHCS to 80mm long, but only in plain steel. Stainless or Zinc plated would be preferred.

Contact SeeeYa directly. That's where I got mine. IMHO, the bolts are necessary, though you could go with a long button head bolt for engine cover clearance. Problem would be finding a bolt in that length.

Thanks for the heads up, but I don't DIY on my DD, my time is too precious. I'll leave that task to my mechanic Definitely looking forward to a tighter front end shortly after the new year.

I'm definitely doing STI rears, and maybe STI front or OEM LGT front. The STI front should fit as well right? I'm using Subarupartforyou as my benchmark. Thanks!

Bumpski, should I bother replacing the front front lower control arm bushing as well (#7)? I'm going with the STI rear front lower control arm bushing (#8), but unsure on the front. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/images/products/2020455S55.jpg

The BPTMIC mod isn't that hard. One thing I did do was leave my BPV installed because the bolts didn't want to come out. Didn't want to strip the inserts out of the plastic. As far as etuning, Infamous can help you with the process, but using the eBay VAG-COM cable and a laptop, the process is very easy on an 05. Yes, stage 2 is very fun. And I have hit 17psi more than twice in the last week, so my estimate was off

Check the FS section of NASIOC for more leads. You'll typically pay between $600 and $900, depending on condition.

Not sure if it's been mentioned, because I haven't looked through all 40+ pages, but I use the spark plug socket to remove the old plugs, and to put the new ones in, just a thread or two. Then I remove the SP socket and use a regular deep 5/8" socket to tighten the plugs in place. Learned your lesson a few years back as well, and that sucked.