Gator GT

http://www.navybuddies.com/ssn/Image901.jpg

http://www.varnerequipment.com/images/743_Bobcat2.jpg

http://www.cbslimited.com/galleries/prom_anna_scott/742.jpg

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http://vcoa.org/shop/images/haynes-740and760_1982-1988.jpg

Use a 10mm socket. and they are counterclockwise to loosen. If a bolt or machine screw has both philips and a hex head, use a socket to loosen or tighten....you can use the philips for threading inbetween those two extremes.

I haven't laughed at a crap story like that for almost 7 years!

I appreciate that you are trying to put reliable and correct info out there, believe me. To me, it sounded like people are saying the B 6MT is a pile of high-smellin' dung compared to the STI 6MT because of that short list of differences. Hardly the case. And thats the person's fault for TOTALLY buying into what they find out on an unofficial website like LegacyGT.com without doing some independent research on their own for a purchase as large as a car. Don't pass the buck onto us because said doofus paid for something with ill-knowledge. A boost controller, maybe, but not a car...thats their fault. I was sincerely hoping that the B would have a front LSD, but with the literature and seeing the B at the NY Auto Show in April of 06 (even tho I was gunning for the STI LTD at the time) I knew what I was getting into. So, I pre-ordered w/o even having driven one; not because I have cash coming out of my ears, but because I checked and was confident in what I researched. I know the importance and expense of a front LSD...what has partly paid for my B and the mods is a cash cow that I killed just prior: JDM STi Ver8 motor (VF37 TS) / JDM STi Ver7 tranny (nonDCCD) 6mt / 3.9 R160 VLSD all swapped into a 1995 Legacy wagon project. It never got built for a number of reasons that I won't go into.... ....needless to say, once I'm done my initial vision for my B, I may just crack the 6MT open and toss in a front LSD. And yes, I purposely got a nonDCCD STi 6MT for the project...less stuff to buy and deal with during the install. Another good way to tune out your under/oversteer is with suspension mods. I think I'm coming closer and closer on my B to neutral handling with the mods I've done and I don't have DCCD. I second what unclemat is saying too. Seriously Mike, I'm glad to see that you're doing research before blindingly throwing cash to someone online/over the phone and getting what you truely want. And thank you for posting up correct info.

Honestly Hammer, the 6MTs between the STi and 07/08 SpecBs are not all that different. Yes, they are different, but they aren't long lost cousins 15 times removed. STI 6MT differs in the following: - front LSD (B has an open front diff) - DCCD (which includes torque split and all electronic wizardry it has; B has VDC and a regular VLSD center diff w/ 50/50 split) - 5th and 6th ratios (which includes different sychros) - different feeling clutch (have no idea why since some are finding the 07/08 B puts down similar stock torque numbers as a stock STI) Also, there has to be something to the statement that the B 6MT is quite similar to the STI 6MT if FHI put the R180 pumpkin in the 07/08 B. I mean, why bother if the B 6MT is a lesser quality than the STI 6MT.

looks more like an engine bikini than an engine cover I can't wait to hear what this thing handles when done.

Oh. Good luck!

Alright, I have 2 tool suggestions, no 3, 3 tools suggestions: 1. crow's foot socket 2. ratcheting monkey wrench 3. sawzall. last one is a joke, obviously . But I have to ask, why, if you are in the independent fog light thread, are you taking that off? I've never taken that off and have no DRLs, independent fogs per this very thread (thanks DK!) and have hardwired my radar detector through my cig lighter and mounted the detector at the top of my windshield.

I have the same car and I haven't run into that problem....and my dash has been apart more times than I care to remember! Can you post a pic with areas designated as to what you're talking about?

yeah, I'd get a broader base on those front clip jack stand bases. I'm not questioning strength of the built "bases", but the lateral stability of them is my concern. Precarious, yes, I may have added some ramps to the front wheels and built up a base under those, and had jack stands behind the front wheels for safety. Keep up the good work tho Hammer.

IIRC, there are access holes where the steel alignment pins are. Try getting a punch and hammer them. I'm quite sure the JDM 6MT I had a while back had those.

Killer posting Clint! Thanks!

F1LGT, where did you get the bulbs?

I don't see any clear pieces...looks like there's nothing in there.

+1

You were so close LAZ...I almost gave up too...but then remembered that certain Subaru connectors have a 'lock' on the bottom. It looks like a bar running from side to side. That actually pops out about 1/16". Then it will release the pins rather easily using the method you were trying.

There is a way to "uninstall" wires from the connectors without clipping them. If you know anyone who has done a really clean wiring job for a motor swap, then they'll know how to unpin and repin connectors. If I have time, I'll try to do a pictoral walk thru. There are just a few steps. The PITA part is wriggling both hands in and up the dash.

bump to help this chap host and share his photo'g skillz!!!

Scott, you lucky dog! Can't wait to see those!!!

Well, what I find interesting is that you removed one of the two that were recommended. I removed (read: not cut) the two pins (brown and blue/black) and was satisfied with the results. I'm wondering, then, what the brown disabled.

interesting...