Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

compsurge

Mega Users
  • Posts

    2,526
  • Joined

Posts posted by compsurge

  1. BTW, the thing at the Science Museum was a total madhouse. I don't think we're planning on doing that again if we go out in the future.

     

    Understatement.

     

    We are definitely not doing it next year. Last year was OK since there were many options.

     

    Big question: WHY WAS THE LASER TAG A LIE?!

     

     

    836 ended up 12th seed in Archimedes, but we weren't chosen for any alliances (big question marks on faces). This is the best we've ever done, and I fully expect to be qualified for CMP by winning a regional next year ;) We're currently merit-based on Chairman's Award (three-year streak).

  2. Saved by cryotune and suspension today...

     

    http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/35221969.jpg

     

     

     

    and then got pulled over by a cop as a result. :( Thankfully, I got a warning after (I assume) he reviewed his dashcam footage for 5-10 minutes. It was dark out and I did an evasive maneuver to avoid a car that pulled out into the main road by swerving into the center turning lane in second gear with my foot planted (only reaction that would have saved from an accident was pedal to the floor).

  3. I'm likely picking up an 05 LGT unlimited this weekend. Single owner, 91k miles, had all the major dealer services, including the 90k mile service with new turbo. The seller said his wife mostly drives the car (true or not, who knows) so it hopefully hasn't been beaten on.

     

    It's all stock, and I plan on stage 2 power. UP/Catted DP, possibly upgraded TMIC, and probably have the tuning done by IAG Performance. Clutch hasn't been done yet, so it would probably be coming due for replacement soon anyway.

     

    Is there any way to test 5th gear? It sounds like these are all sudden failures without any warning noises, so I'm guessing the answer's no.

     

    When/if 5th gear does go, is it safe to limp home or to the shop in 1st-4th? Or should one just pull over and get towed?

     

    Edit - And before anybody makes jokes about "to ensure max transmission life, don't drive your car," I'm aware that buying a high mileage turbocharged Subaru can open a can of worms, but I've really taken a liking to these cars (especially after 8 years of driving my underpowered 2.5RS), and am willing to pay to play.

     

     

    Don't worry about the transmission. If it's had at least one oil change in its life, it should be fine.

     

    The only thing the 5MT is slightly notorious for is the center differential transfer drive and driven bearings wearing. You can repair it with the transmission in the car and less than $200 in parts (including Subaru RTV and fluid). I did it in a weekend (RTV cure time). and have been enjoying a quiet car for the past 10k or so miles. I had about 25-30k on the failing bearings before I learned that the noise actually wasn't normal (even IAG thought it was a normal turbo noise).

     

    I recommend getting an open source tune via cryo. Great $150 spent (plus $15 eBay vag-com cable).

     

    TurboXS downpipe is in my plans for this spring (with one of the new EPA-certified high flow cats (I have a CNT now - it works ok, but it is stinky nonetheless).

     

    Keep your stock IC, or buy my used IPR (no fitment issues) :)

     

    Expect to pay around $1300 or so in parts alone for a clutch install.

  4. Center diffs typically fail from owner abuse and neglect. Poor tire pressures, doughnuts, hard launches, high mileage fluid changes, etc. The bottom line is: overheating and aggressive fluid breakdown lead to increased wear on the components.

     

    Which axle did you put the spare on? If it was one of the rears, that very well could have caused serious issues as you mentioned.

     

    From my recollection, with the car in the air and in netural, the front wheels will spin opposite directions. You shouldn't be able to move the front with the rear wheels on the ground. I'd double check this, but I believe this is a correct statement.

     

    Best test is to take a highway drive for about 20 minutes to get the fluid to temperature, then go into a parking lot and drive in figure 8s at low speed, near full-lock. If the wheels hop/drag or the car is very difficult to turn, you have a bad center diff.

     

    The braking sensation may actually be your brakes. Check if one of your calipers is sticking.

     

    I'd recommend replacing the center diff with the factory unit. A brand new one can be had for around $450 from Heuberger (a forum vendor/sponsor). If you are mechanically inclined, you can do this in your driveway/garage with one set of ramps and some basic tools. It does not require a transmission removal. Here is a link of photos to help you determine if this is something worth doing.

  5. FWIW, do not put that mount on your dashboard. It will destroy it if you try to take it off (My PO did something like that, so I've been looking for a new dash).

     

    That system looks interesting, It seems to take the place of a Cleansweep and a small amp. I wouldn't plan on getting aftermarket speakers with that amp. It won't have enough power for most of them.

     

    Look at the SVX (ae64.com) harness to keep your factory wiring in place for the speakers. It is probably worth getting the Dynamat door kit or some B-Quiet v-comp, or both.

  6. Konis with comfortable sport springs will perform exceptionally well. My car is not a race car. I find Epics fairly tame, but extremely fun in the corners.

     

    As I've also said before, Konis also work extremely well with S-Techs, making the ride fairly compliant on the highway (still some toughness on the big bumps). Handling is still pretty good. This is a good setup for teh drop.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use