compsurge

Did you disconnect the battery from the car? Have you put the car in ON for 30 seconds for the ECU to reset before trying to start again?

Previously, was the starter hanging (starter would engage, but would stop before cranking)? If it was, this is common and the pinion shaft needs to be re-greased.

5EAT is not a CVT. You have not provided much pertinent information about the condition of the car, so I'll make an attempt to give you some background on these cars. If you do not have the access to tools and spare $5-6k in emergency funds to buy another car or replacement engine shortblock and turbo, do not consider it. It is a 15-16 year old turbo engine and the cars are notorious for dashboard rattles, rust in the rear wheel wells, door belt trim needing replacement, and some have issues with the #4 cylinder ringland or turbo failure. Others have issues with the center differential transfer drive bearings. The radiator is probably going to fail at some point >150k miles. The intercooler is probably leaking by now as well. Rear wheel bearings fail occasionally.

I am at 186k miles now on the original drivetrain. I have done most of my own work. I have replaced my center transfer drive bearings at ~100k (and again at 180k when I replaced the center diff and transfer gear shafts). I've replaced my left rear wheel bearing twice. Water pump and radiator within a few months of each other at 150k or so. I perform regular service to fluids (~5k miles on Rotella T6, 60k on the gear oils). My starter needs to be removed and greased because it hangs during warm restarts in the winter now, but that is a fairly straightforward DIY.

I think I have averaged a mechanical breakdown of some sort every two or three years of ownership (going on 10 years now).

Shot in the dark for an old post but is that factory ride height or do you have springs?

I'd go for the contextual clues in this post - https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5567822&postcount=15

STI Pinks, Swift, Epic Engineering are similar in height.

Ok, I'm a big dummy, help!

 

I went to Shapeways to have the triple Cubbypod printed.

 

It looks like I upload the Guage_Pod_Triple.stl? But that is without the tabs? It won't let me upload the step file.

 

It asks inches, millimeters or meters for the model?

 

Is Versatile Plastic what people choose? Looks like there a bunch of options? The Black Natural is $85, Black Premium is $170.

 

I feel like I'm making a bunch of guesses here. I also looked at 3dhubs.com and don't know whether to choose PLA, ABS, PETG, or the 5 other options.

PLA is an absolute no-no for anything going into a car. It will warp and deform in the summer heat or underhood temperatures. ABS is probably one of the better options, as it can be smoothed with acetone vapor. PETG is great and does not have as high a susceptibility to warpage during printing.

For any of the prints, you can use automotive sandable primer to add a top coat and finish with paint for a clean look.

I need help!!!

2001, , manual tranny, 166,000 miles on it. It was running rough so we hooked it up to a code reader and misfire cylinder 3 came back, intermittently- it runs smooth as silk until there is a load on the engine. Over the past two weeks we have changes plugs (twice), ignition coils (twice), a cam sensor and the computer. The original computer still has the misfire intermittently, the second computer came back with the cam sensor issue and still reads a code on there even after we changed the part (a new part).

 

 

What on EARTH is left? We have compression in the cylinder, when we unplug the wire from the coil there is a significant difference. We are going to check the voltage going to the coil but ANY ideas would be appreciated!!!!!

Compression and/or leakdown test. You seem to be throwing parts and money at the problem. Try to use this thread to guide your troubleshooting and avoid unnecessary expense. Codes don't pinpoint the issue, they only tell you the electrical circuit where the fault (a misfire in this case) is occurring.

Check basics for air inlet, inlet sensors, and vacuum lines. Check hoses, clamps, seals etc.

Check battery voltage under load (take it to an autoparts store to test).

Swap injectors. See if the code follows the swap.

Swap coil pack. See if the code follows the swap.

Perform a compression and/or leakdown test.

Are you burning oil? Do you have oil in your coolant?

I did center diff bearings about 70k miles ago. I drove with them making noise until it started getting louder (for at least 20k miles) and I was able to figure out what it was and swapped the bearings myself. Since you are changing them now, you'll probably be fine.

+1 on the any-mechanical failure to the engine or trans and I'm going electric bandwagon.

#1 240

#2 235

#3 230

#4 230

I missed it earlier - did you put new plugs in?

yes changed coil out with a new one. ( the old one had bad ohms readings ) and changed injectors with no symptom change .

How is the compression?

Ok let me first say I am a vw mechanic been a mechanic since 1968 ....

And this one has me stumped. ,

I have a 99 Legacy/Outback with a #4 misfire .

I tested the coil and the coil had bad ohms readings were bad . So I replaced it . ( it is a 3 wire coil. ) with wires and plugs.

what I am getting for symptoms is #4 is firing twice ( at least ) as fast as the others.then skipping a couple of beats. then back to firing to fast .

Anyone have any Ideas?

Have you swapped coils and injectors (one at a time) between two cylinders yet?

Thanks. I paid $15 for my highly-rated clone hotend (I turned it down on a lathe), so I'll give it a run for a little. I was planning on machining a metal end effector.

I don't know if you're in contact with Terence, but the forums have been down for 9 months now (no one can post). Did the backers of the prebuilt machines finally get refunded?

so I can guarantee all valve body bolts are torqued to 80 in/lbs. atf checks perfect hot. shifts and runs perfect until it warms up. once the car warms up, it cannot sit still in drive without stalling, shifts start to get harder and more uncomfortable, and up shifts very fast(1st-5th before 20 mph under some load).

not sure what to do. looks like I am putting my old valve body back in and hoping that should work.

What happens in neutral when stopped while warm?

Understandable, I'll see what I can come up with

 

By the way, I have two Kossel pros and a Mini Kossle Pro, all running Azteeg x5 Mini V3 on Smoothieware!

The OpenBeam variety? I'm a OBKP operator. I just upgraded to the X5 Mini and modified an E3D hotend to fit the end effector this week. I'm excited to see how it performs.

Did you read the factory service manual?

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3351577&postcount=1

See the attached PDFs.

8) Check the ATF level.
<Ref. to 5AT-27, Automatic Transmission Fluid.>
9) Perform the Clear Memory 2. <Ref. to 5AT(di-
ag)-17, CLEAR MEMORY MODE, OPERATION,
Subaru Select Monitor.>

Just in!

Proto-Pasta releases High temp carbon fiber PLA. There is a discount code WORLDSBESTCF for $10 off. I've used their CF PLA and it has made some neat parts for quadcopters. Bridging isn't something I have mastered yet.

Compared to ABS and PET-like materials, HTPLA-CF has:

• Easier and more reliable printing
  
• No heated bed required
  
  
• Lower processing temperatures, like standard PLA
  
  
• Less warping and distortion when processing

  
  

• More temperature resistance* for maintaining properties to higher temperatures
  
• ABS and PET get soft at 80C +/- 10C
  
  
• HTPLA-CF maintains properties up to 120C or more (*when annealed)

  
  

• Higher strength and better strength-to-weight ratio for stronger parts with less material
  
• Improved surface hardness for less wear in abrasive environments
  
• Less shrinkage and distortion for more accurate parts
  
• Higher stiffness so parts hold their shape
  

I wouldn't have thought of using a strut bar for mounting accessories.

You'll definitely want to get PLA out of there ASAP. It degrades pretty quickly in heat and the elements.

There is a good thread here. It is the same procedure. The part numbers may be the same. Double check with http://opposedforces.com/parts/

I had a whine when I bought the car, but I never really knew what it was. It took about 40k miles to get louder. That's when I figured out what was going on and replaced the bearings.

We should start posting stl's on thingiverse. Maybe start all the part names with lgt.com-xxxxxxx

lgt.com-OEM_P/N ?

You can fix it yourself for ~$150 in parts (4 bearings, Fujibond red RTV). It can be done with the transmission in the car. If you have a shop press, it's a very straightforward job. A bearing puller is a good tool to get as well. It take about a day going at a very slow pace.

It happens to a lot of them.