outahere

Here is link to authoritative technical specifications and regulations for halogen bulbs. Everything you want to know about H7, HIR1, etc. http://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/r037r5e.pdf

Interesting. At one you can do a secure credit card transaction, at the other you cannot.

Are your DRLs always on?

Be sure to visit http://www.candlepowerinc and not http://www.candlepower. The latter will take you to what appears to be a fake site. When you enter the web store from http://www.candlepower, at the point where credit card info is to be entered, no security icon is displayed, and no "https" is displayed. I ordered a pair of spare Toshiba 9011 HIR1 bulbs, as the manufacturer has discontinued them.

I wonder if Osram will ever have direct drop-in LED replacement modules to replace halogen bulbs, available to the aftermarket. http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Professionals/Automotive_Lighting/Products/JOULE_LED_Systems/index.html

Here is a recent UK test of thirty H7 bulbs: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/243109/bulbs_we_test_30.html

I have a copy of the 2005 Legacy/Outback factory service manual. On page BR-33 it states "Perform the brake fluid replacement in order from the farthest wheel cylinder from master cylinder". This implies RR > LR > RF > LF But on page BR-34 it states the opposite: "Perform the operation in order from the closest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder". This implies LF > RF > LR > RR. And on page PM-32 there is yet another version. They show a diagram of the bleed sequence, which indicates a sequence of RF > LR > LF > RR So even the Subaru tech department is unsure about the correct bleed sequence.

Do the 2005 and later Outbacks in your part of Europe have a self-leveling rear suspension?

From the 2010 Legacy press release: "......A new double-wishbone rear suspension, mounted to a sub frame, replaces the previous multi-link configuration to provide improved ride, stability and handling......"

Most Outback owners only experienced this problem when the vehicle was loaded with 4-5 passengers and gear in the back. To alleviate the problem of winter time rear instability on straight roads, some owners have had their rear toe set at zero, with a load in the back. Having rear toe set at zero with an unloaded vehicle did not solve the problem.

Looks like Subaru is aware of this problem, because for 2010 the Outback has a new rear suspension. From the Subaru press release: "........A new rear double wishbone suspension improves chassis dynamics ..."

There's a seat back heater in the '05 Legacy????? I only feel heat on the seat bottom in my '05 wagon.

Still seems to be a problem with Outbacks: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?postid=157224#post157224

I don't see how this is true for M1 0W-40. But there are oils formulated from US grown agricultural products that can be said to reduce dependence on foreign oil. http://www.renewablelube.com/

IMO, only true for extremely cold climates. A PAO based oil will require less pour point depressants.

In my '05, I can run the fogs with my DRLs, if I find the full power low beams creating too much back scatter in the fog or falling snow.

Lifted from another forum: Dan Stern put out the info below not long ago; don't remember where, but I grabbed it: "For reference, here's manufacturer data*for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs.*The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of*the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each*manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not*significantly so. *I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while*the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative*comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type we consider (H4, 9006, whatever).*Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the*bulbs have failed. H1 (regular normal): 1550 lumens, 650 hours Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+") 1460 lumens, 1200 hours Ultra Long Life (or "DayLight") 1430 lumens, 3000 hours Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower,*Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium): 1700 lumens, 350 hours Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva*Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):* 1750 lumens, 350 hours Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker): 1780 lumens, 340 hours Blue coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips*BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania*Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra,*also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc): 1380 lumens, 250 hours So that's the pattern for how lifespan and light output are related. It's worth noting that the lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences. The filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance. And, the light color is less white and more brown. But lifespan is lengthened. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" (+30, +50, +80, +90) or Osram "Hyper" type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light — the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. — the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80, or Hyper bulb.

I have had no credit card problems with either rallylights or candlepower. I would consider them just as reputable as paypal, if not more.

On sale for limited time, $20 each at: http://store.candlepower.com/h7bulbs.html

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1197

Here's one source, in California: http://www.autotech.com/prod_drive_lubetools.htm $30/L And another source, in the heart of NASCAR country: http://www.essexparts.com/newproducts.html

Well then, why not try out the Fuchs Silkolene SilkTran Syn-5 75W90 GL4/GL5 in your transmission.

Put the Amsoil 75W110 in your rear diff, and the Extra-S in your transmission. Has anyone had the actual viscosity of the Extra-S measured? I searched for a VOA and didn't find anything.

[quote=JoeFromPA;2089109........But there's also AMSOIL 75w110 (which I don't think any Subaru owners have tried), about the same price as Extra-S. And then there's Extra-S....the tried and true. Hrmmmm... Joe 75W110 might be a little thick for a PA winter, IMO.

Why is the voltage regulator part of the starter, and not the alternator?