outahere

Apparently, Daniel Stern is working on getting some 65W H7 bulbs manufactured: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?433667-Osram-Rallye-65W-H7-is-discontinued-Is-there-another-like-it

Same here, with 64,000 miles on the original pump. I don't see any leaks at the hose connections, or the shaft seal, or the pressure switch. No leak at the nearby oil pressure sender. It's a mystery. No bubbles in the reservoir, and no abnormal sensations in the steering.

After some massive procrastination I finally did the timing belt job on my 2005 LGT. My old belt and components have been in use for 64,000 miles and 166 months ( 2 months shy of a full 14 years). The old belt was surprisingly free of any visible defects, on both sides. The tensioner had a slight amount of fluid on top. All the pulleys rotated smoothly and silently. The only unusual thing I noticed was on the small pulley. Most of its contact surface was covered with a very thin, irregular layer of black stuff, presumably from the belt. I used a Gates kit that I bought in 2013. I bled the tensioner 3 times before installing. The pulley bolts did not have threadlocker on them from the factory, and that is how I installed them. I did however use blue Loctite on the tensioner bolt, as Gates recommends. The process was a bit more challenging than is depicted in the "how to" videos. This was the 3rd timing belt job I have done in my life, but my first on a 4-cam Subaru motor. I used the cam lock and crank lock tools from Company23. I followed the belt install procedure as shown in the FSM. Putting on the last pulley (at the bottom) was impossible without some mechanical assistance to line up the bolt holes. I made a half-round pulley cradle out of a small piece of wood, carved another small piece of wood (the base) to fit on top of the exhaust heat shield (at the front of the engine), and put the whole assembly of pulley and wood tools on top of the exhaust. To raise and align the pulley, I inserted a wood shim between the wood cradle and wood base, and tapped it with a hammer. I am saving these wood tools for the next time, 10 years from now. The preferred method for installing a new crank pulley bolt is a 2 stage torque to angle: 33ft-lb followed by 65-75 degrees of rotation. I don't own a $600 Snapon Torque Angle Wrench, or an accurate angle meter, so I did a two stage torque application of 33ft-lb, then to 133ft-lb (while monitoring the torque angle the best I could). I used M1 0W-20 oil on the bolt threads and bolt head. Judging from the noise generated while tightening, this bolt will not be coming loose.

I received a Denso rebuilt starter (#280-0365) yesterday from Rockauto. Price, with shipping, was $105 (does not include core charge of $68). On the package it states "Made in the USA".

My starter screeched like a banshee this morning, at 42F. I lubed it a year ago, and 3 years before that. Checked on a rebuilt (by Denso) starter, and they are $198. They are on national back order, with no ETA.

The M&S designation is meaningless when it comes to snow traction. Instead, look for the " 3 peak mountain snowflake" symbol on the sidewall. (However, the 3PMSF symbol does not ensure good ice traction). https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=125 If you trust Consumer Reports, look at their Nov 2017 issue for tests of all season tires. It includes an acceleration test on snow (but no test of braking on snow or lateral traction on snow) You might also find this thread useful: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4551680/1/What_all-seasons_have_the_best

Here is some info from Denso about how they rebuild starter motors. http://densoautoparts.com/starters

Mine is also quiet again, after a new application of grease. There was still some grease on the shaft and spiral splines from my last application, which makes me wonder if the return spring (inside the solenoid) has become too weak to pull the pinion gear off the ring gear. A new solenoid seems to be no longer available from the dealer parts dept. And the one shown at Rock Auto is completely wrong. I did get a CEL immediately after reinstalling the starter and reconnecting the battery. The DTCs were related to TGV function, but my engine ran fine. Cleared the codes, and no problems since then. Wacky electrons!

To do a really thorough lube job, I think it may be necessary to remove the gear/clutch assembly from the shaft. I did not do that 3 years ago. The risk was greater than the reward. The R&R requires a press, and a new retention ring. I had neither 3 years ago. I would be surprised if the retention ring is even available from the parts dept. I am going to do a partial tear down again, as the last time, and if the starter screeches again 3 years from now, I will get a rebuilt starter ($250?) from the dealer. Hopefully the new rebuild from Denso will have improved, low friction internal parts that do not require periodic lubrication.

It's been 3 years since I last lubed the starter, and I am now getting the "cold start screeching" again. It has not been super cold in the mornings, perhaps around 45 degF. Time for more lube.

Pull the motor out. Definitely.

I agree. Too bad adjusting the valves is such a time consuming process requiring camshaft removal.

Interesting how some 05 LGTs with stock tune can only make it to 95,000 miles without burning an exhaust valve, and yours has made it to 235,000 miles, and still going.

So, who has the most miles on a LGT with a 100% stock motor and the factory tune?

Maybe. The starter motor contains a large "plastic" gear that can be damaged by incompatible lubricants.

Sta-Bil 360 Performance additive is claimed to prevent those issues.

Do I need a Paypal account to make a donation?

So I went to Timkens online storefront and found this information: "This part number [ HA590118] has been superseded by part number: HA590315" http://www.timkenstore.com/ptp/do/productDetail?partNum=HA590118&srcCode=&doNewSearch=true&referencePage=SearchSuggest&navbartype=Store&selectedcountry=USA&viewstore=true&selectedstore=Timken&bflag=false&selectedlanguage=English

Hmmm. I just downloaded the Timken bearing catalog (last updated 2010) from here: http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Pages/Catalogs.aspx It shows HA590118 as being the correct front hub/bearing for 2005-2008 Legacy and Outback. It shows HA590119 as being the correct rear hub/bearing for 2005-2009 Legacy and Outback. It shows HA590315 as being the correct front hub/bearing for 2008-2009 Impreza. The catalog does not break out different part numbers for turbo and non-turbo models.

That sounds like a reasonable thing to do. It is puzzling that Subaru considers these bolts to be for one time use only. They are not highly stressed (like, for example, the crank pulley bolt), from what I can see.

Does a new front hub/bearing from the dealer parts dept. include a new axle nut and 4 new mounting bolts? (The FSM shows the nut and the 4 bolts as being non-reusable items)

A 2005 LGT with 241,000 km? From what I read here, you will soon be paying for an expensive valve job.

On what year vehicle?

I've joined the club. Actuator stopped working on my left rear door.

How many miles on that bearing?