ssbtech

That looks good! A touch higher for me would be better.

So you got the Bilstein HDs and which springs?

Any front spacer?

Do tell us how well it rides and handles

Test 2

Front weels off the ground (rear wheels on the ground), with the transmission in nutral, I can't rotate both front wheels in the same direction at the same time.

 

This is normal behavior. If you were able to rotate both front tires in the same direction, it would mean that the center differential was acting as an open differential.

Spinning both front wheels in the same direction would rotate the propshaft between the center differential and front differential. Because the center differential is preventing the front prop shaft from rotating independently, the front wheels can't both be rotated in the same direction.

There's an "auto" button on the HVAC controls, no? I know on my 2005 if I hit the auto button it will take it out of auto mode.

I never used auto anyway. I found that if I got into a cold car and wanted the temp to be at 20* the system would try to do this by blowing air faster instead of the more preferable method of blowing hotter air more slowly until the set point is reached, then back off the hot air mix.

And I'm assuming the clearances are good on all of them?

I had two exhaust valves in #2 go bad and 1 in #4 go bad, so you have to check them all.

RP turns to water in our cars. Don't bother with it.

We once had a Subaru service manager on the forums, and RP was the most frequently used oil in blown engines.

I have an oil sample from about two years ago that I never got tested, and one taken just before my engine was torn apart to have the valves replaced.

Should I bother sending the samples away for testing? Probably not, eh?

Man all this talk about internal motor issues causing misfires is starting to scare me a bit. Im having issues like alot of you and have been considering a compression test for the hell of it. What would a good pressure range be for these motors? Maybe next weekend ill be borrowing a kit.

142-171 PSI I think with less than a 5PSI difference between cylinders.

My valves were sealing too tight, there was no clearance at all. 140PSI on the compression test in all 4.

I guess when the valves heated up they didn't seal and that was causing the misfire. I wish I knew how to prevent it from happening again. I spent all my Christmas money on fixing the car and I'd like to not do that again.

The cylinder walls looked good, original crosshatching still looked intact. I'm not sure if the pistons were pulled to look at the rings. But it was barely burning a drop of oil.

Well ill start there. And thank you

And if you're good there then you're looking at something really big.

My compression was fine, but three valves had cooked themselves. Have the valve clearances checked.

I had an FY windshield after a rock struck my OEM one.

The FY glass had a much lighter tint strip at the top than OEM and it was also rippled in several places. Trees on the horizon did the funhouse mirror thing as the car went over waves in the road.

I seem to recall the wiper heater getting hotter than before. Not sure how that would affect the longevity of the glass.

I had it removed and replaced with OEM Carlex ordered from the dealer two weeks later.

Is this "stumble/stutter" the same as the turbo surging issue?

I've noticed mild acceleration in 5th gear, as the boost increases there's a stutter feeling, almost as if the clutch is grabby/slipping a bit (it's not slipping)

Ok, I've changed my mind again. I shut it off this morning and it made the noise. Left the car off (you can change the air mode with the car off) and pressed the button a few times. It made a similar noise, but was cycling fine.

I dunno. We'll see what happens. Hopefully it can be accessed without ripping the dash out as it is on the right side of the heater case.

I still disagree.

My portable and window moutned A/C at home (no actuators in those) make the same noise after being shut off.

LOL this is the third thread on this subject. It is the air vent actuator.

Which one?

I seriously doubt it. Mine doesn't make the noises when I scroll through the settings. Recirc/fresh, temp adjust, air direction mode - all work fine and without noise. It's ONLY when the car is shut off that it makes the noise.

Mine started doing this recently as well. Blower fan is clean (I pulled it to check)

It doesn't make the sound when changing modes while in operation and I don't recall any of the mode doors or air mixers moving after shut-off before.

Hmm....

It's a Subaru, I didn't think the A/C was supposed to be cold in these cars?

15,000BTUs cools my living room nicely, you'd think 18,000 would freeze your nipples off in a little car.