ssbtech

I have read all the comments and it appears they will fit HOWEVER will my stock outback tyres 215/55/17 still fit with the new shocks?

 

Based on successful conversions in North America, I'd say they'll fit. It's close, but they'll fit. I have Legacy Bilstein HD struts on my car with 225/55/17 tires.

Perfecto. Thank you. For some reason I could only find an Iphone 6 one on his website.

 

Thanks for the help .

 

You're welcome.

 

 

Seems I've stumbled onto the right thread, but I am still confused as to which of the products offered by http://jazzyengineering.com/ I need.

 

What I want is to be able to plug in my iPhone to the audio system for the lowest cost possible. I don't need it to charge the phone (already have a charger, so a jack input would be fine)

 

I have a 2006 Subaru Outback with the 6CD changer, double-din system:

Thanks in advance for the help,

Kriss

 

This one will do what you want: http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=44&osCsid=l0vpgb3eq6ingkdp6b3sksfm92

 

Just be sure you're comfortable taking the head unit out of the dash, then taking the head unit apart to install the device.

Is this not the cable? http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=52&osCsid=l0vpgb3eq6ingkdp6b3sksfm92

I'm starting to notice a very slight version of what's happening there on mine.

I'll replace the dash before it gets that bad

Sway bar might be banging into something in the back.

Generally over wattage bulbs are a bad idea, but most of us have been fine with 65w bulbs for the low and high-beams.

What's the speed at the top of 3rd gear?

 

Speed limit here is 90km/hr, an "excessive speed" ticket is 130km/hr and above (40 km/hr over the limit) and nets you an immediate 7 day impound.

 

2nd gear would be OK, but I've been told they should all be done in 3rd.

I was planning on stage 1.

 

The problem with an e-tune is there's nowhere here to get it to the top of 3rd gear for the logs.

 

I'm also a little worried about botching something up with the PC/Tactrix. The AP seems safer.

I haven't tried to flash it since the dealer flashed it. The very first Cobb Stg1 map I did took nearly 40 mins.

 

I'm thinking it's just the slow serial interface on the V1AP.

 

I'm on the fence about getting another AP.

I just looked at the size of the old COBB stage 1 map I used - 4.5KB. The A2WC522N map I downloaded from RomRaider is 1.0MB.

 

Was the V1 AP really that slow or is something else wonky? I know when the dealer flashed it with the stock A2WC522N map it took quite a while too. I certainly don't want to play around with a wonky ECM.

I was paranoid flashing with my V1. After 20 minutes into the flash I got anxious, after 40 minutes I was wondering what the hell was taking so long, after 43 minutes I was very relieved.

 

New APs or Tactrix flashing doesn't take that long, does it?

My V1 is useless now. Dealer flashed the ECU without me unmarrying it first.

 

I don't think I should touch the maps. I can see myself bricking it in short order.

 

EDIT: Makes you wonder why nobody has grilled SOA about this. Such a simple thing that was corrected in future models but never applied to older models that has ultimately cost customers thousands in repairs.

It was an older tune on the V1 Access Port.

 

I have no idea how to grab those two tables, edit them then re-load them to the car. Can that be done with RomRaider? Can I edit them directly without having to flash the entire ROM?

 

Somehow my Outback has the Legacy ROM on it. I think it was from when I first had the AP it was a Legacy GT model, then when the dealer re-flashed it just auto-detected it as a Legacy.

Upgraded to the A2WC522N bin, was at A2WC510N, since I was going back to a 100% stock tune, figured I would play with CL to OL Delays.

 

As you can see with the 100% stock tune, you are staying at high 13 AFR's while pushing 12ish PSI. This is also happening while you are at peak torque, where the engine is the most susceptible to knock.

 

 

Moral of the story: ALL TURBO SUBARU's should have closed loop to open loop delay disabled if they want to save their valves and gain some power while they are at it!

 

Is this something that can be done without any other tuning alterations?

 

I'm also on the A2WC522N map on a stock engine (catless up-pipe).

 

I was on the COBB Stage 1 map for several years and still managed to cook 3 exhaust valves.

I was wondering, how do I match driver and passenger temperatures, so that the driver knob controls both?

 

You can't. Well you could, but it would involve affixing an elastic band around both knobs so that when one is turned, the other turns with it.

Are valve clearances that have become too tight not an indication of a valve or valve seat problem?

Big spacers.

Is it normal for me to have pretty much full heat at anything over about 68*

 

I find when using my Auto system in manual mode, I get a few levels of cool between 18-20 and anything above is just hot, hotter, and hotter than hell.

So when I leave the car parked, should I leave the climate control on fresh air?

 

I understand the idea behind getting rid of the condensation when getting back to the car and starting it up, but I'd like to keep it to a minimum while I'm away from the car so I don't have to wait ten minutes before I can drive it.

Did anyone happen to take any Forest(er) pics? Say perhaps back in 2009?

 

Cheers.

Ok, I've been driving for more than a couple of weeks

 

Yes, I have the A/C on when I clear the window.

 

Are people finding it better to leave the recirc set to fresh? Is there a preference for what air direction the system should be left at when shutting it off?

No, my mats are dry.

How do I avoid having the windshield fog up when parked at night?

 

I meet with some friends for late appies every week and when I get back to the car on a cold night, my car is always the last one to clear the inside of the windshield. Everyone else hops into their cars and drives off right away, mine takes forever to clear.

 

Any tricks to reduce the condensation build up?

Yes, you can re-use the XT's upper spring perch and upper mount.

 

How low are you trying to go?

I know nothing about this but this is what I was told to log when trying to figure out what was wrong. Eventually the engine came out for new valves too!

 

Engine speed

Knock sum

Throttle opening %

Engine load

Feedback Knock Correction

Fine Learning Knock Correction

IAM

Ignition Total Timing

Manifold relative pressure

Primary Wastegate duty cycle

Boost error