ssbtech

Post up a log. Where are you seeing the knock count increase? Light load? Heavy load? Part or full throttle?

I'm still trying to figure out why some people say the knock sum isn't something to fret about.

I know the threads are long enough but the smooth portion of the bolt stops short of the bracket.

I know, I overthink things but it looks odd to me.

I ordered some new bolts in the event that the old ones were rusty or somehow became damaged during removal.

Does this look right? Seems a bit short to me.

I remember when I installed my Megans the alignment shop couldn't get the front camber within spec and had to grind out one of the bolt holes on the lower strut mount. This was with the car no lower than where it will probably be with the Bilsteins.

Did anyone have any issues with front camber? Did you use different camber bolts, etc...?

HDs, Pinks and 22mm spacers.

Thanks.

FWIW, on oil usage, I read in the paper the other day that Chrysler just released it's ok for their 2012 and 2013 cars to use 1 qt every 750 miles.

 

How's that make you feel...

Doesn't surprise me. When was the last time you drove behind a Chrysler product that wasn't belching blue smoke out the exhaust

It seems to be good on the bottom. The spring is as far clockwise as possible. The top is where I'm concerned.

I'm sure the mechanic who will help me install it all will let me know if it looks wonky.

Thanks for your input.

Some of us hate the floppy, wallowy ride of the stock suspension.

For others, the Outback XT was the only way to get a manual wagon. They killed that off in the Legacy back in 2006 I think, but the Outback XT was available with a stick right until 2009.

I bought the Outback thinking the handling would be acceptable after owning a 2003 Outback, but as time went on I couldn't tolerate it.

And no, I'm not a teenager whining about my hand-me-down

Here's a few:

http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/ssbtech/library/Bilstein%20bits

Thanks

As I sit and wait for my 2nd left strut to show up, I put the right side together.

Is it critical that the spring seats top and bottom perfectly or will it settle in once installed on the car? The lack of windings on the spring made it impossible to get the spring compressor in properly and let me center the top of the spring whilst still being able to get the compressor out.

I know this isn't exactly setting engine timing, but I'm unsure of what degree of precision is required here.

for those worried about spring perch/tire clearance, using spec b takeoffs would get you that clearance since the bils have a a higher bottom spring perch in the front compared to regular LGT units.

So Spec B OEM Bilsteins have higher lower spring perch than OEM GT struts. Are the HDs the same as the OEM Spec B Bilsteins or the OEM GT struts?

fstaslp, I can pretty much guarantee that you can't fit 245/45/18s with a stock style strut up front. I test fit a set of 245/40/18s on a +48 wheel (18x8.5 I believe) and the clearance to the spring perch was quite close. Other than the spring perch I think you might be able to massage the tire (or rather the car) to fit, but you need a lower offset or a smaller tire to clear the perch.

His listed tires have a slightly smaller diameter than the stock OB tire size (which fits under LGT struts). If a wheel with the appropriate offset is used, why wouldn't those fit?

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator/225-55R17/245-45R18/235-45R18

how deep in the engine is this valve?

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1943328&postcount=8

Every time I see this thread at the top, this is the first thing I think of for a slammed Legacy:

 

http://www.car-accidents.com/2007-crash-pics/12-17-07-subaru-crash-2.jpg

That's very slammed!

I wonder if they had to cut the roof off for extrication or if the collision did that. Subaru B pillars are hard to squish like that.

I think mine was about 30 hrs labour.

With head refinishing, a new clutch, starter, all new hoses, timing belt, tensioners, etc... the bill was around $8K

I could clear my CEL and the misfire wouldn't come back for several days. The car seemed to run fine, idled mostly OK.

It held compression just fine but the valve clearance was next to nill. The valve works it's way up in the valve seat, and when it heats up it expands and doesn't seal properly.

My injectors were swapped too.

Mine has been maintained well since the day I got it. Beyond doing all the oil changes and scheduled maintenance when scheduled, there's not much else you can do. Washing and waxing the car every month doesn't keep the motor from eating itself.

Sadly I suspect a bad valve in your case, ScoobyDoo. There's speculation that bad timing on the factory tune is the cause of these valve failures, or that the valve clearances are set too tightly from the factory to reduce noise.

Mine went at around 95,000 miles. Given the work involved in repairing these engines, I wish Subaru would have paid a little more attention and designed them for longevity.

The Jazzy board works by feeding audio from the Aux jack into the ribbon cable that connects the CD changer and amplifier. This ribbon cable normally carries audio from the CD to the amplifier. Since the amplifier will only process audio from the CD changer when a CD is playing, a disc needs to be playing for it to amplify the audio from the Jazzy.

This is done with a silent CD. It's not a blank CD, the player wouldn't do anything with it. It's a CD with a 74 (or 80 minute) silent track. When it plays the silent CD, the only audio it's amplifying is from the Jazzy's Aux-in port.

You could in theory play a music CD and use the aux-in at the same time, but you'd have two songs playing over top of each other.

Since the maximum CD length is 74 or 80 minutes, you'll have to restart the disc every 74 or 80 minutes. Just hit the "RPT" button if you're drivign for longer than that.

Neither will let you control the iPod from the head unit.

The ground loop isolator (GLI) serves to reduce/eliminate "ground loops" which can be a whine or buzz in the audio. It's optional but I'd recommend it.

As for controlling the iPod from the head unit - the Jazzy kit is strictly for audio. Inside the head unit, it piggybacks on the ribbon cable that carries audio from the CD changer to the amplifier. There is no data control back to the iPod.

If you're not comfortable removing the head unit from the car and opening it up to install the Jazzy unit, this mod isn't for you. (The instructions are good, so if you know your way around a screwdriver you could tackle this).

Pardon my noob question about the Jazzy Kit. Im looking to be able to have AUX as well as iPod connection. What exactly do I need to purchase from the site?

Either this: http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=47

Or this: http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=48

...depending if you want the ground loop isolator.

You won't be able to control the iPod from the head unit if you're looking for that.

Here are a few. Not sure of their accuracy.

6. LCA bushing stud: 901370005

7. LCA cover plate: Legacy: RH: 20216ag00a - LH: 20216ag01a

15. Rear Transmission horizontal crossmember: Legacy: 41011AE100

16. Front Subframe Bolts: 901000242

17. Center Exhaust Heat Shield: M/T: 44132AG150

18. Transmission Sub Frame: Legacy: 41011AE020