nadracer

That is exactly what I wrote about earlier in this thread suspecting about the ultimate performance here.

There wouldn't be enough for the coupling on the OEM box to cling to if it was shorter. There less than it looks underneath for the coupling from being secured tighter. The angle on the plenum from the stock box is very different than Takeda which makes it so off.

The Takeda tubing will work with the full stock air box but, of course there is a but the silicone couplers need to be a bit longer. Either with two longer straight couplers 5-6" maybe didn't measure it. Or one longer straight coupler and a 45 degree coupler with a longer sleeve. Getting the Takeda tube to fit against the throttle body and the oem box either makes it at an awkward angle or pulls it out of alignment by a mile. Just a side note about the Takeda intake is that it only needs half the OEM box to support its weight next to the engine. So with the cut OEM box it can look like this. I could have done a better job but this was just to mock; don't really care for the stock box. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/9C2037C5-1C06-450D-9A7A-50F4FA0D7687_zpsaqf0br1f.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/2FD2F8C7-85EE-49DD-B385-52852A811094_zpsrviu4egd.jpg In the car... http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4423_zps6d33b36c.jpg Pipe against the stock box http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4420_zps3bdff01f.jpg ...opposite end http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4421_zpsbfdcc825.jpg I played around swapping the couplers to see what would be better but nah. My initial impression was "buy new couplings" is right. Anyway the Takeda is back in and I pulled the air jug since I think its more an impediment at this point to the Takeda filter and I'll run around like that for a while. happy modding

Cause it wouldn't work. It would be easier to build a new box from scratch. I already cut the OEM box to accept the takeda tubing. It's 1F so I'm not going to try fitting until tomorrow.

It is possible what your saying about not getting enough air maybe their advertised "360 degree filter" (ha) is blocked by the case and the top of the filter has a plastic does have cap. No offense intended though but looking at your dynos I didn't see that the HKS funnel free'd up power. Power fluctuates too much for air temp/pressure/ blah blah blah to measure small gains accurately. Might need several dynos on different days. Take Takeda's dyno for example. The baseline on their dyno was the max gain on yours. http://afepower.com/catalog/TR-4304P/graphs/TR-4304PI1600.jpg Original post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2013-legacy-3-6r-intake-dyno-218087.html?t=218087&highlight=hks+funnel

Still love the sound though. Mean old scoobie.

No, but I can't see the physics on how that would help. With the HKS funnel with Takeda's AFE air filter and I'm accusing would "allegedly" vortex the air past the MAF.

My impression after having the intake a while is that the AFE is flowing more air than the MAF can process. While there is power added from the Takeda intake is increased in rpm lumps the stock intake excelled in less power with no lumps. The AFE filter is huge compared to the stock filter. I've already measured out my stock box where it needs to be cut for this weekend to see how the intake performs with a more stockesque style filter. I know that intakes with a bigger filter doesn't really work better. It might work on paper in terms of flow, but that isn't everything. How dense the air enters the engine is just as important so if the air vortexes around the MAF it tricks the sensor how much air is actually entering the engine;more air might be going into the engine than the MAF is reading so it runs too rich. Air density is still important to N/A homies as our forced buddies. A smaller filter can solve that lumpy problem so the obvious choice is to modify the stock box to work with the Takeda tubing.

The 2010 model year has the same issue. One of the reasons I didn't buy one. I have to pack my car with lots of home insulation for my 1950's house. I figured it would be hard to pack in rolls or R30 fiberglass when you have a bar in the way.

Hey Guys, If you're going to use the complete OEM airbox with the Takeda intake piping you'll need to cut either the intake or the airbox as both will have the MAF sensor adapter bung.

Emnotek's price beats Amazon by quite a bit. That's where I got mine from. I had to contact them directly to get it.

You're welcome. But hey I covet your coil-over setup so you got me there:dm:

That would be a big waste of dough. There is next to no heat soak where the intake runs. There are no direct heat transfers on the intake. The intake manifold is plastic and a aluminum throttle body there is nothing that would soak heat into the intake.

Takeda made one for the 2.5i guys first.

To clean the filter, you need to pull the Takeda half of the Airbox. The filter can't be removed without doing that.

I couldn't see why not. The 08+ Tribecas have the same 3.6.

The throttle response is better. The sound is nice too at wide open throttle. I can hear the induction noise from the new intake tube. It sounds mean. The low end torque doesn't feel affected at all. I do still have the jug under the air box. Since the overall design is changed I doubt it does anything anymore but in my experience removing the jug on an N/A car reduces the low end torque. I'd remove it but then there'd be a useless hole. Intakes on the other hand free up hp in the upper rpm but low end torque is usually sacrificed. There doesn't feel like there is any noticeable loss. Feel is free flowing and eager to rev. Takeda like most CAI developers love to push the top end hp. Who on earth drives like that? I highlighted the root issue on the dyno Takeda shows where there is a loss. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/TR-4304PI1600_highlight_zps045c1c05.jpg So there is about 200rpms around high 2k to 3k where there is a loss. Throughout there are small bumps in power freed up from the increased flow. My sensitive heiny dyno didn't feel a loss.

Sounds quiet for normal driving.

Not sure what you mean by buying me? I bought it. The stock intake isn't very direct by any stretch for N/A.

....

I got a deal on one of these and installed it the a couple nights ago. This is not the same model as for the 2.5L though it looks almost identical. The 2.5 uses the TR-4303P version. The 3.6R uses the TR-4304P version. I picked it up from one of our vendors Emnotek. So here is my review on whats in the box. The airbox portion that this intake replaces is made of steel. It's simple folded construction similar to what you'd find on a comparable K&N typhoon intake. The intake tubing is also steel not chromed plastic. With silicon couplings overall this product is on par with K&N intakes. This is what is being replaced. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4397_zps641bff09.jpg The install would be smooth except that for the replacement air box piece to fit perfectly against the OEM, the OEM needs a little filing to fit. The to tab slots on the front of the stock OEM air box need to be widened slightly so the Takeda will fit flush. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4404_zps2c40f25c.jpg Takeda airbox installed. The tube sitting on the radiator is the charge pipe to the throttlebody. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4399_zps10a6f18d.jpg During my initial test 15F was probably not the best time for the ECU to learn a new trick. After a few days the ECU is compensating well and the throttle is smoothing out. So far I like it since it's still quiet at low rpms. Ta-da - without engine cover http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4408_zpsb06d425c.jpg With engine cover http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4410_zpsd46f38bc.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4406_zps90f21e0f.jpg

race car?

So it sounds like a good position here are aftermarket 2011 wrx front struts and 2009 wrx rear struts

The jokes here are starting to lag.

Cusco I believe has some forward chassis braces where that tanabe lower front brace fits in behind the front wheels.