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stocklgt

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Posts posted by stocklgt

  1. current tire is a/s 225/40 on +38s, new tire uhps 255/35 on +45s.

    FA 510s with 8k 6k swift and radial bearings with camber plates on the coils

    fenders are already rolled, no pull. if i need to pull nbd im not overly concerned.

    im not a fan of slammed cars anyway so if i need to raise it up it doesn't really matter to me, id much rather a large tire.

    right now car is on s-techs but coils are being built and shipped and here in about a month. 8-12 weeks for the SA10R blc to come from Japan

    http://www.speedimageusa.com/assets/images/weds%20wheels/wedssports/wwna_sa10r_18_blc_rr.jpg

    lose 7mm on the poke, but gain 15mm on the tire on the outside (i think), so effectively +8mm on the outer edge, but the 35 sidewall is a bit less tall, so I am thinking ill be OK.

    if i need to run a bit of camber thats fine as well.

  2. haha, I love that!

    I don't really want to spend a lot of money.

     

     

    Update, I spent a lot of money!

     

    It seems to me with brembos, spoke design means everything with whether or not they'll fit. There's no clear answer. Some people with 17s and offsets in the 40s are clearing, and like the guy above, 18", high offset in the 30s, wide wheel, doesn't clear.

     

    I wish I could help, I think I'm getting my calipers back this weekend from powdercoat so I can pitch in a bit with what will fit and what won't. I've got 5 different sets of wheels kicking around right now.

     

    awesome thanks. I got word from Enkei that they will clear, so Im hoping they will. I don't plan on doing the brakes for a little while, but I just may so that I can be sure I can return the rims for a different offset/style if they do not.

     

    What color did you powdercoat the brakes? I was just wondering if I could find an STi or brembo sticker to cover the cadillac logo.

  3. yeah i think that will be the issue. can anyone measure the caliper width to the rotor for me? or at least the difference between the stock caliper width and brembo caliper width? I was thinking of going with RPF1 or NT03+M 18x9.5 with a 255 if for some reason this doesnt fit and keep these current wheels for the winter setup anyway, but that would require swapping brakes which is more trouble than its worth. Does anyone have NT03 or RPF1 18x9.5s with these brembos? spacer needed?

     

    It looks like STis running 18x9.5 NT03 can pull off a +27 up front with no spacer but I really dont want to run a +27...id like to stick with a 9 or 9.5 but if i do go 8.5 i can always reuse my tires which is a good way to save some $$.

     

    just trying to figure this all out before i pull the trigger on something else i cant use.

  4. I see the 18x8.5 +45 fits and I just got word a +31 fits, so I think i should be in business.

    I dont think the barrel size or the way the spokes concave should be too much of a factor on these wheels, but who knows. IIRC they are F1R F21s, they are pretty horrible looking but came with the car. I need an excuse to buy new rims anyway, so this may be a good reason...

    Thanks for the quick response.

  5. did a quick scan through the thread and couldn't find anyone with 18x8.5 +38, can anyone confirm these fit over the caddy brembos? Id like to avoid making this $700 kit $1700 with new RPF1s...Now it'd be nice to justify buying new wheels, but I'd rather not.

     

    Should've probably done a little more research before biting the bullet on the setup.

  6. ahh nice thread - been mia for about 5 years but just bought me another 05 lgt after i sold my 1st one to get into a 13' Evo X.

    Havent been to mountain creek in abt 3 years, bike has been sitting dormant since i broke my ankle and foot there.

    Have an 09 Santa Cruz Bullit with more $$ into it than my LGT. Just collecting dust now. Id like to get back out there, any plans for this season?

    Hoping to show the creek some love this year!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VZpdtAR-ucKTztecwRVsZiqzlGDjg_8MHA/view?usp=sharing

    view?usp=sharing

  7. Do I get double points? lol

     

    http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/za.jpg

     

     

    http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/998.jpg

     

    Ready for Cunningham Park

    http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/999.jpg

     

    Down to rebuild the turbo and new pipes and couplers for the FMIC

    http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/997.jpg

  8. spotted a silver (i think its dark) lgt lowered, with exhaust and ralliarmor flaps on the cross island south. had a sticker in the top left cocked sideways. honked, but i was in my integra so you probably didnt recognize, plus other ppl were honking due to an idiot merging on wayyyy too slow lol
  9. Dark colored LGT wagon in Ardsley last night. You were at the intersection of Saw Mill River Road and Ashford Ave. I was on foot.

     

    I see quite a few WRX/STIs in this area, and females driving a surprising amount of them.

     

    My cousin lives in Scarsdale/Ardsley area, whenever I'm over there I see a billion STi's and an occasional LGT. Between Secor Rd. and Dobbs Ferry Rd. they are swarming lol. I never get any love though

  10. Has anyone wired up an LC-1 to their gauge yet? i wouldnt mind some direction on the wiring...

     

    i downloaded the LC-1 manual, read it breifly, but i havent gone for the install yet. is this a simple install?

     

    it's pretty straight forward, as long as you follow the instructions. The most important thing is to ground the LC1 and the VBG to the same location and configure the LC1 using the software provided and changing the values listed above. The readout was pretty accurate before my sensor went on the fritz.

  11. Can we have a separate "official" thread on this, with the facts, features, etc? This thread is more of a developmental phase. The vent gauge can now do boost, temp and AFR from a wideband sensor, am I right? Am I missing anything?

     

    what temp? mine only does boost, battery voltage, and wideband readout. I want oil pressure so i can get rid of my cubby pod! The install is very straight forward as long as you read the directions! If not you'll be running power twice, i guarantee it.

  12. Just so you guys know, you are wrong about the stock sensor...

     

    You are also wrong about how the ECU sees it. Try reading up in the tuning section. The stock sensor is capable (and accurate) below 11.1. The ECU is just set-up not to trust it there. You can have it read below there, but unless you move it to a different location, no wideband will be accurate richer than that in the manifold/uppipe location...

     

    Can you link it please? I'm interested in reading more into it. I've seen multiple links that say otherwise...from what i read (not 100% sure where, but rao did make the comment) the stock sensor is MOST accurate in the 11.2-16.5 range, how accurate it is in and out of this range i'm really not sure. In theory it can work, but do you want to rely on an a/f readout when the accuracy has been proven many times to be questionable?

  13. Doesn't the ECU use the O2 sensor for "rich/lean", and doesn't really care about the numbers? I think there is inherent accuracy concern with a narrowband sensor, but I never really cared enough to look further into it.

     

    Some cars use wideband O2 sensors for stock engine control. Volkswagen is one of them.

     

     

    bingo, i believe it is only used in closed loop situations. the accuracy up to a certain point is pretty decent, but i think after 11.1 you are taking a chance by relying on the numbers. Also, IIRC you can't just buy a wideband 02 sensor, you also need to purchase the controller along with it. There are some decently priced units on the market starting at about $200 with a gauge. Look into the LC1 or AEM Eugo to start with. They sell the LC1 without the DB gauge, which is probably what you are interested in.

    Only reason I have one is I was stupid and bought it for my old car. everything just swapped over.

     

    *taken from http://www.hondata.com/techclosed.html

     

    In closed loop operation the ECU uses one or more oxygen sensors as a feedback loop in order to adjust the fuel mixture. This gives the name ‘closed loop’ from the closed feedback loop. The ECU won’t run in a closed feedback loop all the time, so ‘open loop’ is used to describe the operation of the ECU when the mixture is not being adjusted in this way (usually when the engine is cold or when running under high load).

    In closed loop operation the ECU uses the oxygen sensor to tell if the fuel mixture is rich or lean. However, due to the characteristics of the oxygen sensor it can’t tell exactly how rich or lean, it only knows that the mixture is richer or leaner than optimum. The ECU will enrich the mixture if the oxygen sensor shows that the mixture is lean, and lean the mixture if it looks rich. The result of this is that the mixture will swing back and forward around the stoichiometric point.

  14. Wait, we can't tap into the factory O2 sensor?

     

    I knew i read something that says stock 02 sensors are not accurate.

     

    taken from the romraider website - "A Wideband O2 Sensor is almost, but not quite, essential. The stock O2 sensor is not accurate when the car is under boost. Cars with 16-bit ECUs use O2 sensors that are only accurate in a narrow range around 14.7:1 AFR under any conditions. Cars with 32-bit ECUs use O2 sensors that are accurate over a wider range, but they still located in the up-pipe, where exhaust backpressure renders them inaccurate. Even if you relocate a 32-bit ECU's O2 sensor downstream of the turbo, they will only read down to 11.1, which is insufficient for most tunes (you could shoot for 11.5:1, but few people do)."

     

    Even though the front sensor is a "wideband" type sensor it is not accurate.

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